Diary Page

August 1896

Thursday August 13th 1896

Extract from Harrison’s diary © Scarborough Museums and Galleries

Early morning saw us busy getting all the loads arranged. Having mustered our 69 carriers from Port Herald with 18 sundry boys from the kraals round Pinda, with a boy called Rebecca as cook! Alexander interpreter, 2 young boys as butler and footman and housemaids combined, with 4 rifle carriers, we still found ourselves some 16 porters short so we had to leave that number of loads behind. We started off the army under charge of the capitan about 10 a. m. Seeing our old steamer the Argonaut coming down the river, we went on board to get our salt which had been left. Having bid goodbye to our kind Portuguese host, Senhor Mauro, K. and I with our

personal retinue got away at 1 a.m. We skirted Morimbala all the day, catching up our porters at a water hole. Pushing on we reached a small hill above a muddy water hole, where we pitched our first camp; did not bother setting a tent - merely undid our cots and mosquito nets. We passed several kraals and bought up eggs and tomatoes where able. Took some village photographs.

Friday August 14th 1896

Up early about 5.30. K. went ahead in hopes of finding a stray buck. We took possession of a kraal for our midday rest and meal, the inhabitants having all fled into the bush at our approach - no doubt we do look a formidable array - some 100 people loaded up. Pushed on again when cooler and on reaching a stream running through a grove of bamboo, with water very brackish, we fixed up our cots. Rather too far from the camp fire - I changed my plates under a table covered with a mackintosh sheet - decidedly warm and neck-breaking work - About 3 a.m. we were aroused by

a loud roar in the bush just above, the first visit of our lion friend - after no doubt taking us in and wondering who and what we were, he circled all round and retired -

Saturday August 15th 1896

Another early start, halting at a pretty stream full of rocks and covered with bamboo. Found our friendly lion had gone along the footpath and through the Kaffir kraals. Another stop was at a canoe building stream - took photos here of a dugout. Pushing on we reached a village owned by Indeguma - sitting down in a circle the old chief came in solemn state, our porters all sitting round. -We informed him we wanted to hunt in his country and wanted guides - he was most civil and at my request fetched his wives out to be photographed -we then gave him a stiff tumbler of brandy which made the old boy wince - much to the amusement of the crowd round - however, his wives finished it off without moving

a muscle. Going on some 2 miles we made our first camp on a bamboo creek - got our tent fixed up - had a few drops of rain. K went out and shot a hartbeest which came in handy for camp and set the boys all talking after a good feed.

1 Hartebeeste

Sunday August 16th 1896

After eggs and coffee we started away before sunrise. We found no game and hardly any spoor. K. luckily killed a hartebeeste which set the boys' tongues going far into the night. We fired miles of country and lit up the whole place at night. K. also came across and slew 3 pig which had been driven out by a fire I had lighted - one of them died very game - charging several times. The Chief sent in presents of meat and eggs which we returned in calico. Today was food pay day, so I had a fine job of sitting at the table measuring off some 80 yards of calico, besides counting out 152 dirty old coppers! We had a

fine dinner - green pea soup, hartbeest, liver and tongue, with plenty of tomatoes - also warm bread - I had alas a boiling down of our ginger beer powders which the sun had quite melted into a mass of cardboard box - paper & string. Stuck together with a sort of treacle.

1 Hartebeeste

3 pig

Monday August 17th 1896

Kirby and I started out together to try for Sable antelope – after following spoor for two hours we lost it, so I went on after some hartebeest we had seen feeding, but I could not get near enough for a shot. K after leaving the sable spoor struck fresh Rhino tracks, after several attempts to get a shot at them in the dense grass, he crawled very near and was expecting every moment to get a chance. Thinking he might by climbing a small sapling, get a sight of the animal, he had just taken hold of it when De Lambi his gun bearer in his excitement, let off his rifle – the bullet missing his head by a couple of inches and cut the tree clean off – rather narrow shave-

of course this started the rhino off, and after following some distance had to knock off. At night over the tea table grumbling at the bad luck was of course indulged in though hot bread baked in the ashes of wood some what appeased our wrath – we sent 20 boys off to fetch the loads left behind at Pinda.

Tuesday August 18th 1896

The Chief having sent us a guide to show us where the game was, we started away at daybreak. After an 8 mile walk, having passed through three deserted kraals, the inhabitants having fled to the bush, our guide got a man to take us on the hunt. On putting up a wart-hog, he danced with delight and seemed amazed that we did not fire at such a beast, having come all the way to get eland. Finding him utterly useless and a fraud he was told to footsack (take his hook). Striking out across country we spied a fine hartebeeste standing on an ant heap some 200 yards off - being rather done with my lame leg I told him to shoot. Bullet struck a little low, so we had a

lively run on his spoor; another shot from each; my last one going through and breaking his hind leg started him off again. This was too much for K's gun-bearer, De Lambi, and off he went armed with an assegai. He finally ran him down, much pleased with himself. An hour's rest for a biscuit while the boys cut him up and fried some meat for themselves. Came home via a big Koppee where our lion friend was said to dwell. Found his cave but not the owner, alas: My leg was very bad again today. Tea at 6.30 and then to bed about 8 ended up a hard but poor day.

1 Hartebeeste

Wednesday August 19th 1896

Today we had an off day - to rest the boys and get things squared up in camp - had a little rain - rather unusual at this time of the year. I hunted 3 hours but again only saw three hartebeeste. Busy skinning birds. Kirby skinned his hartebeeste head. I photographed two ladies who brought us presents of sweet potato’s and tomato’s, giving them a present in return of salt. Later in the afternoon K. went out and had a shot at a hartebeeste but only wounded it and too dark to follow spoor. Our 20 boys came into camp with the loads left behind at Pinda, so we now have all along so far. Another boy also came along whom

we engaged. I have deposed my first gun-bearer from his place to be a porter - too slow and never near with one's rifle. My leg rather worse today; am beginning to fear there is something seriously wrong with it.

Thursday August 20th 1896

A guide who promised to show us elephant ran away having only lied to us, so Kirby started off to his chief Indenguma and reported him. The Chief seemed quite anxious for him to be punished, as it appeared he had bought his daughter to marry but never paid for her! Going on to the man's kraal found he was hiding in the bush, his wife being left in charge to confront us. Inflicted a fine of 6 fowls and 8 baskets of sweet potatoes, or their hut to be burnt. Alexander being left to carry out the order. As they could only bring 3 fowls we made a bonfire of the hut. Kirby then shot a hartbeest to give the old Chief. We had a busy day in camp, getting ready to move next morning. I mended stockings, cobbled up my boots, sewed up my gun case, made a jelly which refused to set, and

at night cooked a fowl with pea soup and tomato’s to give it a tasty gravy. This, with some excellent bread (by the quantity we eat) made in the wood ashes, was a dinner second to none. It seems hard to imagine this country so unhealthy - sitting out dining under a glorious moon, with our 90 boys yelling, singing and blowing all sorts of musical instruments, most of which have only two notes makes row enough to scare a nation. A boy we sent with a message to a kraal came back in fear and trembling saying he had met a lion! Tried cold water bathing for my leg which I fear gets worse.

Friday August 21st 1896

Started to pack up and break up camp. Got away at 8.30 having guide from kraal. Not having boys enough we left the Capitan with 16 boys with 23 loads. Marched an hour and a half, then halted on a pretty little stream. Kirby went after butterflys while I bathed my leg in stream, and then shot a very pretty small parrot. After a light feed we pushed on under a new guide. Marched another hour and a half and found the water place quite dry, so had again to move on another two miles. Being about sunset we had to hurry up, only putting up the fly of our tent, we camped on a garden which we covered with cut grass, our boys are all below among the bamboo canes on stream bank, their score offices looking like

so many glow-worms. Another perfect moonlight night and no mosquitoes. We hear good accounts of game round here, but having been humbugged before we wait to see what tomorrow brings forth.

Saturday August 22nd 1896

Our guides turned up early and we started different ways to inspect the ground - I nearly got a shot at two sable antelope, but such long grass - later I got a shot at a wildebeeste standing on an ant heap - went a few hundred yards and found her dead under a tree. Boys soon cut it up, and heavily laden with meat made for camp. We fired all the country as we came back and had a glorious old bush fire - swept along for miles. Found Kirby had struck rhino spoor but though quite close up was unable to get a shot. The grass is very high and till we get a lot burnt almost impossible to tell what game there is. The water here is awful, colour of pea soup and tastes of soap-suds. Two very large Kaffir kraals close by

who have supplied us with a few eggs and plenty of wild tomato’s. Sent 12 boys to Indenguma's to bring on the remainder of our loads. Shot two very pretty birds early in the morning from my bed - came into the trees just in front.

1 Wildebeeste

Sunday August 23rd 1896

Just discovered at bedtime that today is Sunday - I had a 7 hours walk through the thickest jungle grass - never saw a head of game - so came back so as to get my wilderbeeste head skinned. Kirby, who went after rhino again, had luck to drop across a troop of buffalo and dropped a couple -being nearly dark had no time to cut them up - Found lion spoor just above our camp - hope they won't visit our quarters as we are sleeping in the open, only having the fly of tent set above us. Our boys arrived in camp with 23 loads left behind.

2 Buffalo.

Monday August 24th 1896

Got up at 5.30 intending visiting buffalo carcasses in hopes lions had found them. Striking fresh eland spoor, however, we followed them for nearly 3 hours step by step - losing it at last we came on to buffalo, as we thought, in some high rough grass - Suddenly we saw the rhinoceros-birds jump up and heard a rush in the grass. Running forward to head the beasts we climbed a small hillock and then saw a rhino moving through the tall stuff - so high could only see the grass waving - Being utterly impossible to follow into the jungle we decided on a drive, K. and I taking up our stand on a huge ant heap just at the edge - then sent 3 boys round. The rhino, however, began of his own

accord to walk our way and at last appeared round a bush corner - first a horn, then head, then shoulder. We agreed to fire together. K. let go with his 12 bore - the animal disappeared but rushed back into the thick. I got one fair sight of him and as luck would have it my bullet did its work. The animal went away some hundred yards into another thick patch. We followed and cautiously crept in, when a few yards ahead K. caught sight of the beast stone dead - it had quietly sat down like a dog asleep, its huge head on its fore legs like a dog. Of course, with the first instinct of a hunter we looked at the shots and found K's through the top of the neck - a little too high so merely went through the fleshy part. I was much delighted when K. told me my bullet had brought him down, having caught him fair in

the side and raked it, evidently cutting the main arteries of the heart. This was indeed a bit of good luck in place of my many fruitless hunts. We had a big crowd of boys out who were soon on the spot. My camera was quickly at work and after orders were given we again started off to take up buffalo spoor. This we followed for some 6 miles but we could not get a shot, though twice we got up to the troop. In camp things looked quite busy - boys trooping in under all sorts of loads - rhino head with 4 men to it - buffalo heads, with some 2 ton of meat in every shape and form - tonight the boys are having a real good old feed - it really looks like business - K. dressing down a bit of rhino skin for a table top,

Alexander giving out the meat, myself skinning a golden oriole and also watching 6 boys who are already hard at work on the rhino head. We have also been busy tonight giving out calico and coppers for the boys' weekly food. Our clothes begin to show signs of work – we come into camp more like sweeps after hours tracking over the burnt grass. We have hourly visits from all the ladies of the kraals round bringing in goods for barter. Our Hungarian band is now at work, the boys having eaten themselves silly.

1 Rhinoceros.

Tuesday August 25th 1896

Did not make quite the usual early start. K. went off to try for small buck but had a long blank day. I went over my old ground and came across a troop of eland - after crawling some distance got a snap shot at a fine old bull - brought him down on his knees but followed the others. Followed up and about a mile on came up to them but only to get another awkward shot. We kept on the spoor for a long distance till the thick high grass was the cause of our losing it. Very bad luck this as I especially wanted to get an eland. Shot a large monkey with my 450 but the bullet absolutely blew it to bits.

On the way back shot a white necked crow, and when washing in camp a kingfisher came and settled close by which I pursued with scanty clothing on. Busy with rhino head again, also giving out calico for wages to 10 boys. Most of the boys are very sleepy today - the effects of too much rhino.

Wednesday August 26th 1896

Had a lot of things to do about camp so, though up at 5.30, it was nearly 8 when I got away. Luck was with me, however, as after an hour's walking I came on a troop of seven eland feeding on the burnt ground. A large ant heap covered with bamboos gave me a grand place to stalk them from. I then had a fine eland cow broadside on only some 150 yards away. After my bad luck of yesterday I took especial care and sent a bullet well into the shoulder. Hardly able to keep up it staggered some 50 yards and finally crashed down against a tree. We followed the troop for a mile but they never slowed down. Coming back a nyassa came past and

as K. wanted one, though 150 yards away, I fired and thought I had killed the little buck, for it jumped and kicked all over the place. Unfortunately it went away and we were unable to spoor it far. Came back to camp after photographing the eland. K. had a blank day. Very busy with our rhino and eland heads - a great deal of work on a rhino. Shot a very pretty green pigeon.

1 Eland.

Thursday August 27th 1896

K. went out only after butterflies and birds. I went off on to my old burnt ground and found two small lots of eland, but after spending an hour trying to stalk them had to give it up, the wind and ground not being favourable. After a light 1 o'clock meal we once more packed up all our goods - found instead of getting less loads they increased, so left 6 porters behind in charge of 25 loads. It was 4.30 before we got a start and after 14 hours' sharp walking reached Pinca Pinca's just at dark - 6 o'clock. Camped close to the kraal, merely putting up the light tent over our cots. After dinner (the 3rd day of eland stew, just getting tasty)

started on two birds - one a big hornbill. This made us late into bed – 10.15.

Friday August 28th 1896

We took an extra hour in bed as we were only on the march. I took six photographs of our camp, the bed being very picturesque! also took the chief Pinca who came down with presents during breakfast. We are getting very angry with the Kaffirs as they won't say anything about game. Moved on at 7.30 and at 9 o'clock stopped an hour at a big kraal, where the boys bartered meat for meal. On again to Sackow, another 1½ hours, where we arrived at 12.30 and had a meal of eggs and jam. Things not going smoothly, so we wasted remainder of the day doing nothing. Camped right in the centre of the kraal under a big tree

- rather like a village green. Had a good day buying eggs, got over 20 - keep us going again for early breakfast. Started a letter to Mother. Had several presents of meal, eggs, poultry and tomato’s from chiefs round.

Saturday August 29th 1896

Left Pivatsejia kraal about 8.30, leaving 22 loads stored in one of his huts. Sent back 21 boys from here to bring on the loads from our last camp Namatimbi. We did a good long stretch; saw buffalo spoor on the way, also sable antelope. Burnt the grass all along our march. Reached Chirimane about 1 o'clock; fixed up our camp and about 4 went out to fire grass.

Sunday August 30th 1896

Two of the Chief's sons came to act as guides and show us where the game is. We really went so as to burn grass, being impossible to find game or shoot it in the dense jungle. I had a 7 hours' tramp and came back well tired. Left a good blaze on one's track. K. had the good luck to run on to a small troop of buffalo and killed a couple. One had, we think, a record head for a cow. Being late he only brought in the head. Our first lot of boys came into camp about 4 o'clock with loads. We are kept pretty busy in camp.

2 Buffalo

Monday August 31st 1896

Went out early again to burn grass - had a fearful rough walk - over 7 hours. Saw nothing except a reed-buck and 2 pig driven out by one of our fires. Being Sept. I thought I must shoot a brace of partridges - so did also 6 guinea fowl, which I made into stew. Shot a baboon but lost him. K. came on fresh elephant spoor and also shot a baboon which I have just skinned, much to the delight of the villagers. Boys went to fetch in buffalo meat.

1 Baboon