Diary Page

December 1899

Friday, December 1st, 1899.

Decided to stay over a day and dose all camel with koodoo soup which seemed to do them good; fairly good feed. Up at 4.45 and started hunting at 6. I had a fruitless morning, only seeing a large troop of monkeys. Got fairly into the wait-a-bit thorn country- I climbed a 1000 ft. hill so as to map out all one side of country for Clark. P.C. had all the luck getting 2 lesser koodoo, 1 gerenook, fox and porcupine. Ghee got another porcupine and missed a lesser koodoo.

1 Gerenook PC

1 Porcupine PC

1 Fox PC

1 Porcupine AEB

1 DikDik JJH

Saturday, December 2nd, 1899.

Up at 5.45 and away at 6, having hired 10 kraal camels to help us along a day's march. I turned off to hunt along the foot hills; after 3 miles spooring lesser koodoo I suddenly saw a tail sticking out of a large hole in ant heap. Seeing some animal I got my shikaree to push in a stick, further in at a side hole, when out came an ant eater which I promptly shot - a wonderful bit of luck, as very few people have ever seen them, much less shot them. Further on I killed a gerenook and sawed its horn off by the skull. Arriving in camp worked hard at skin: photographed it first with different cameras. Bill shot a gerenook and P.C. a klipspringer and fox, I went out late and rolled over a very good gerenook - 3 head 3 shots. Camp called Ginabelley (Genoble).

1 anteater 1 Klipspringer PC

L 45-64 1 Gerenook WW

H 20½ 1 Fox PC

G 29 - G of tail 15¼ - G hind leg 19¼ fore leg 14½

Diam of nose 6¾ - diam neck at chest 14¾

1 Gerenook

1 Gerenook

L 56½

H 58 13 Miles. 5.30 - 10.45.

G 30¼

Sunday, December 3rd, 1899.

Up at 3.45 and away at 5.30. Sent men to track mule which had run away. They found it miles away. I saw the first bush buck in thick scrub; got a long snap shrub. Bill and Clarke still under the weather. Had our first zereba made tonight and camped in a pretty place - trees and running water.

I had my first outdoor bath. Natives came in for medicine. Camels looking better and lost none on the march. I shot a lesser koodoo cow, 2 monkeys which I blew to bits, alas. Busy during midday repacking boxes so as to get a chest for birds. Camp called Ortha.

8 miles 5.25 8.40

1 Lesser koodoo

2 Monkeys +2 monkeys JJH

1 Fox JJH

1 Dik Dik JJH

Monday, December 4th, 1899.

Up as usual at 3.45; camels away at 5.30 and had a long tiring march of 5 hours, camping on a series of water holes, at which all the camels and sheep come for miles round; I had a rough climb up a mountain and missed getting a shot at oryx owing to Elmi's usual short-sightedness. Ghee took the other side and got a gerenook: P.C. a lesser koodoo and a fox. During the afternoon 3 chiefs with some 40 followers came in their war paint to serenade us and perform their war dances. I got some photographs of them, also some of a fat little native child. Camp called Ulfulla.

13 miles - 5.30 - 10.30

1 Gerenook AEB

1 Lesser Koodoo PG

1 Fox PG

Tuesday, December 5th, 1899.

Up at 4 and away at 5.30. Did three hours and arrived on the banks of the river Herrer. Found a pretty camping ground under trees with lots of running water.

On the way I killed a female aul - very good head. After seeing camp fixed and a soldier sent to visit Toomba, I then went out and after killing a gerenook, wounded a lesser koodoo which we spoored for 5 miles. Suddenly from the top of the river bank we spied standing under a thick tree opposite what the boys said was a buffalo. Not feeling satisfied, and knowing cattle were round, we climbed down to get a better view when the animal broke away, charged straight up a steep rocky koppy and when we got to the top we saw the animal still careering over the hills. After a long discussion we decided on tracking him up, which we did, and finally came up with him some 4 miles further, standing in thick bush. Taking the glasses I could still hardly make up my mind to fire though the animal had proved himself perfectly wild, so I brought him down with my 450. Going up to him he tried his best to charge but my shot had fairly tied him up. We rode into camp and after getting 2 camels and a dozen men returned to our victim. Finally we decided on his being a galla wild ox - he was a grand beast, in prime condition. I took photos with

both cameras of galla ox. All meat brought into camp some 500 lbs. Camels all got enough to eat for first time. Paid off 10 hired camels. Ghee shot his first lesser koodoo and P.C. missed an oryx. Camp Herrer.

8 Miles. 5.50 - 8. 30.

1 Lesser Koodoo AEB

1 Gerenook

Horns L. 14½ W 5½ diam 5 1/8

1 Aub (head spoilt)

Horns L. 16¼ W 11 diam 3¼

1 Galla Ox

L. 94 - 141

H 56½

G 90 top of hump - 82 back only

Horns L.16¼ - W. 18½ - Diam 12

Wednesday, December 6th, 1899.

Not moving camp had a little more bed; breakfast at 5 and away at 5.45. I had a long turn on the old elephant spoor, but after 5 hours found they had gone clean away. Found a postman with local letters from Harrar, the Consul and Baird, but no English. Bill shot one of those huge vulture cranes. Perks also got some sand grouse which come down in droves at dusk to drink. My galla ox supplied the whole camp with food - must have weighed 600 lbs. We had roast heart for dinner - most excellent. At noon the head chief Toombacha arrived with 5 underlings - a most unprepossessing looking chap who demanded all sorts of presents and lolled about in our chairs, drinking coffee and spitting all over the place. I took photos of them, also camp. In the afternoon I went out and killed a lesser koodoo. Saw 3 big koodoo cows and several lesser; also pig. Birds of all sorts swarmed in the elephant jungle. Sent back the Shune's soldiers and took on our fresh chief's underlings.

1 oryx PC

1 Lesser Koodoo 1 Vulture Crane WW

L 78 Horns 22¾ 56½ tail to beak - 112 tip to tip 18lbs weight

H 44½ W 13½

G 22½ Diam 6 1/8

Thursday, December 7th, 1899.

Up at 4.30 and away at 6; only 24 hours trek. Pitched camp on a hill without a single tree, as mosquitoes were too bad near the water and shade. Hearing elephant had been seen up the river we spent three hours looking for same unsuccessfully. After midday meal we had a long visit from Toombacho who appeared a little more friendly. Most of the men, however, came into camp armed and made themselves most offensive, so we served out 5 rounds of ball cartridge per man and doubled sentries. I got a wart-hog in the river bed in the evening. Camp called Gotha (Corta). Toombacho came and asked for a special medicine.

6 Miles – 6.00 - 8.30.

1 Warthog

L 73

H 32¼

G 50¼

Sent letters Mother and Huzzard.

Friday, December 8th, 1899.

We all went out hunting in the morning so as to hear any news about elephant. Later camp was filled with natives, also Toombacha, who did not seem at all friendly disposed to us. He gave us 4 goats and soldiers; we returned it in dollars – Americano - bag of rice and sundry small things. Some natives tried to steal our goats, but we recovered them by a charge of our cavalry brigade! Marched at 3, camped at 6.15. Camp called Tollo (Tullar).

8 Miles. 3 p.m. - 6.15.

2 Guinea Fowl

1 Korow

Saturday, December 9th, 1899.

Up at 4.45 and away at 6. Horrible flat country with nothing on it to hunt; full of natives and cattle. We did about 12 miles and camped at the foot of a hill koppy - 700 ft. high - up which Clarke, Ghee and Bill climbed. I had a busy day among skins, getting birds sorted out that were dry. Seeing a solitary aul feeding on the hill near camp I went out and shot it, rather lucky as we none of us care for goat meat. Just before dusk. Mohamed walked in, having pushed ahead of the loaded camels - very pleased to see him. Camp called Gumba.

Photographed aul and men at devotions -

1 Aub

L 36 Horns L 18 11 Miles. 6 – 10.45.

H 64 W 4½

G 39 Diam 5¼ 1 Jackall - PC

1 Klipspringer

Sunday, December 10th, 1899.

Up at 4.45 and away at 6. Camped at 11 on a hill with very pretty view over a lake. On the march I shot a gerenook; Bill 2 aul; Ghee a gerenook and P. C. a klipspringer, 1 aul and 1 gerenook, so we had a day among them. About 4 o'clock we all went out and surrounded the lake, shooting several varieties of birds. Found fresh elephant spoor 2 hours off, so settled to go at dawn. Camp called Odah -

1 gerenook 1 gerenook PC

1 aul PC

2 aul WW

1 gerenook AEB

1 goose - 4 duck

12 Miles - 6 - 11.

Monday, December 11th, 1899.

We got up at 4.45 and took 5 camels and 4 donkeys loaded up for a two days' trip, having heard that elephant were round. We rode 12 miles and then found nothing but spoor at least a week old. We sent men out but no better results. We had a meal on the road back and reached camp about 4.30 after losing a whole day - very annoying and especially after dragging our camel over 24 miles of ground.

Tuesday, December 12th, 1899.

Up at 4.45 and away at 6 o'clock. Camped at 10 on a wide river with lovely banks and well timbered, but water only out of a deep hole like a well. My mule ran away again and putting its foot well into a hole gave me a real good fall on the head, breaking a new umbrella, but luckily no worse except a bruised face. On the way P.C. shot 2 gerenook and 1 aul. Ghee got a gerenook and fine oryx cow. Bill, in afternoon, shot a female koodoo, so lots of meat in camp. I followed river down after lunch to trace its course, saw some real pretty scenery. Camp called Muhla - After supper we put out a carcass and shot 5 jackals.

11 Miles - 6 - 10.

2 gerenook PC

1 aub PC

1 gerenook AEB

1 oryx AEB

1 Lesser Koodoo WW

5 Jackalls WW. 1. JJH. 2. Ghee 2.

1 Dik Dik WW

Wednesday, December 13th, 1899.

Up at 3.45 and camels off in the dark at 5 o'clock. Ghee and Bill stayed behind to try for lesser koodoo, but had no luck. We had a long hot march, doing 64 hours, camping out in the sun, no trees for shade. After lunch I went hunting again but had wretched luck, breaking a fine oryx' hind leg, following him for miles unsuccessfully. I saw hartbeest for first time, also zebra spoor. Bill shot a baby oryx. Camp called Dunkagga "3770".

1 oryx WW

14 Miles- 5 - 11.30. (303 miles)

Thursday, December 14th, 1899.

Did an early move - up at 1.45 and away at 3 sharp. Had to load up with water - did 8 hours and 40 minutes over a dead level plain which seemed unending. Got to a hot water river at 11.50 where we camped. Ghee shot a fine zebra and lesser cow koodoo; Bill an aub, P. C. 2 oryx. I went out and found lion spoor, also a buffalo track, so Bill and I had a zereba made and slept out on the edge of a reedy swamp - donkey tethered outside. Mosquitoes were simply awful and glad we were for dawn, though it was lovely sleeping in the clear moonlight. Camp called Bilun, "3400".

18 Miles. 3 – 11.50

2 oryx PC

1 aub WW

1 zebra AEB

1 lesser koodoo. AEB

Friday, December 15th, 1899.

Bill and I after a potted meat and cold tea breakfast, left our zereba at 6 and started away - I went over & struck the Hawash river about 4 miles distant. Coming back I got a native who showed me fresh buffalo spoor, going into the huge reed patch. Finding the bottom was sound and not above one's knees I followed the tracks some distance, starting them twice, so thick. Suddenly I came on a splendid lesser koodoo bull which I dropped, thinking it done for, I was surprised when it plunged up and down & started crawling away, and before we could get out of the swamp, cleared altogether - more bad luck. After lunch an Abyssinian chief came to call in full state. Gave him a fine salute. He offered to give us all the shooting a sportsman could wish!! Bill got two nice water-buck and Ghee a cow oryx.

1 oryx AEB

2 waterbuck WW

Saturday, December 16th, 1899.

Cotton slept out in a machan, hoping to see buffalo. I went down at 6 a.m. and going round the reeds suddenly heard the animals rushing through them. In hopes of getting a shot I did 2 hours wading nearly up to the waist in awful slime - a regular fever bed. Ghee shot a fine lesser koodoo and Bill a gerenook - P.C. again went off to his machan.

1 Gerenook WW

1 Lesser Koodoo AEB

1 Jackall JJH

8 Sandgrouse JJH

1 Corpse eater JJH

Sunday, December 17th, 1899.

We got up at 1.45 and went down in the moonlight to hunt round the reeds. Unfortunately, just as we saw them feeding, an eclipse of the moon took place, quite spoiling our chance. The eclipse was interesting, starting from right top corner it covered across but on clearing again it started from the left corner and cleared the opposite way – clearing 3.45 to 6.15. After seeing the buffalo take to the reeds we all laid down on the grass in different places and slept. At 6 we all met and had a rural breakfast, when Mahomed arrived with all the men and rifles to drive the reeds. We had bad luck as the men saw several & we nearly got chances - we all waded for some distance. In the evening we all went to wash in the hot water spring - 110; then shot 20 sand-grouse.

20 sandgrouse

1 corpse cleaner

Monday, December 18th, 1899.

Up at 5 and again did our best to get a buffalo out of reeds. Awful work, and though with a little luck we should have killed one, we had to chuck it after getting 2 men badly mauled. I saw a leopard in long grass. Left Bilen camp at 5 - reached camp at 8. I shot an aoub on the march. Camp called Billen.

7 Miles. 5 - 8.

1 auol

Tuesday, December 19th, 1899.

Left our temporary camp at 5 and reached the Hawash river in three hours. Camped on an exposed ridge - rocky and treeless. On the way I shot an aoub - soon after we came across fresh elephant spoor crossing our track, so sent out at once men to see if near. Reporting them close I tried to get P.C. to come, but he refused, so I started away longing to meet Ghee or Bill returning home. I soon got on to tracks and shortly heard some coming direct out into the little patch in which Egal and I were crouching. The leading cow walked out almost touching me, and suddenly getting our wind flew round, drew herself up, raising ears and trunk, and then made a charge at Egal. I called to him to spring back as I had jumped the other way, but he stood up and fired my 450 at its head. Having broken tusks I was hoping to kill the second one instead, but to save Egal I had to drop the beast which I did dead at Egal's feet - thus my first shot with my new 450 cordite. Going along I soon struck more spoor, and making a run to where I heard crashing I came up with a big troop. I dropped a big fellow with my first barrel, when suddenly a bull came straight

at me from behind a bush. I had no time to do anything so placed a shot clean in the centre of his forehead which he happened to be carrying low. Lucky for me it killed him dead. I then picked out a fair tusker and grassed him; when going up to No. 1 I found him up and gone. In the meantime No. 5 did likewise, so quickly that I had no time to prevent either. I followed blood spoor some way and then went into camp to get food and drink, for heat was fearful; also to see if the others had arrived. Soon had the other 5 off to the bush and I went across with cameras, axes and men to chop out tusks and take a head skin. Meanwhile shots were firing and very soon boughs crashed. One or two false alarms caused a hasty retreat of all to a place of safety. However, I got the photos and was starting on the head when a large troop neared us. Running along I cut them off and got into a bit of brushing in an open glade, when to my horror out came a line of some 40 elephants, like a cavalry regiment, all bearing direct down on me. I certainly thought my last hunt was done and dare not fire. I breathed again when the right hand of the line had jostled the others a

little to the right and the nearest just cleared me with 5 feet to spare, - rather too close to be pleasant. I now made the most of my time, and with 5 shots of Rigby's cordite knocked three over - one dead, another ran and fell 100 yards away, while a third got as far as where all the men were hiding behind the dead elephant they were skinning and then dropped dead; so this made 5 laid within some 200 yards. I had two more shots when returning home, and again had to make my best pace in an undignified manner. Getting dark I could not follow, so had to postpone things till tomorrow. Bad luck my men could not find my small watch lost yesterday. Ghee and Bill each got an elephant, having the same exciting times in the thick bush. Certainly hunting in such stuff a man deserves all he gets. This camp promises well so far. Camp Ardatha - "3550".

1 aoul 8 Miles. 5 - 8.

5 elephant

1 Lesser Koodoo - AEB

2 Lesser Koodoo - WW

1 Elephant - WW

1 Elephant - AEB

2 Elephant - PC

1 Elephant - The Party

Wednesday, December 20th, 1899.

Up at 5.50 and had a busy day mapped out, having all the tusks to chop out, 3 head skins to strip, feet, tails, teeth and ears to bring up. During the morning we found another dead, making ten in all. I went round all the bodies and took photos of Ghee's and Bill's. After lunch

Ghee and I rode along the blood spoor of the main troop, among which were two badly wounded animals, but after going some miles gave it up as useless. Turning home we hunted along the river bank, and I killed a bull and cow lesser koodoo. Three more men laid up – cuts and scorpion bite.

1 Lesser Koodoo

1 Lesser Koodoo F

Thursday, December 21st, 1899.

Up at 5.50 and away hunting at 6. Took some time getting all over the river in our Buttuon boat, being deep and about 60 yards wide. My shikari got stung with a scorpion so I took Jama Said out. Came on a lot of buffalo spoor, also saw 5 bush-bucks killed a nice ram. Striking the river I found a school of hippo besporting themselves. I had 4 shots and hope I secured some, but they sink for some hours after killing. On returning to camp I rode out with Ghee and Bill to the hippo again and saw them get each a shot. Our second lot of camels are one march behind, Mohamed having gone off to bring then along. Camp beginning to smell a little with so much skinning and heads round. P.C. climbed the hills and shot a klipspringer: Bill a lesser koodoo. Saw lion spoor on both sides.

1 Lesser Koodoo WW

1 Klipspringer PC

1 Bushbuck

L 59 Horns L 11

H 32 W 2

G 29 Diam 6

1 Hippo

Friday, December 22nd, 1899.

Finding fresh lion spoor and buffalo further up the river we decided to move our camp about 5 miles, starting down at 8.30 just after Mohamed arrived with news that all our cannels behind were arriving. Found Timbucktoo had behaved badly, surrounding our men with 400 of his people and kept them three days till they gave him a sack of rice and one of duarra, also looting some tobacco. They killed one Abyssinian and threatened to kill our Esa men, so they fled. We had a slack day, getting our zerebas built. At night we all went and slept in them but no luck.

Saturday, December 23rd, 1899.

Came in to 6 o'clock breakfast and then Bill and I started to find out where the buffalo hung out, but only a long wild goose chase. P.C. went after hippo, killing one which liberated a huge cow I had shot two days before. Very busy getting head off and taking photos. Made us very late for getting to our zerebas, but no lion alas came to visit us. Bill shot a crocodile which came round the hippo corpses. Perks caught some very good fish.

1 hippo PC

1 crocodile WW

Sunday, December 24th, 1899.

Returned from Zereba about daylight. Ghee went hunting direct, shot an aoub - rather lucky as meat was off. I went to see after the cutting up of the hippos and brought the head into camp. Busy all day getting hippo skin and skull into shape. We all spent our Xmas Eve in our zerebas, but no luck. Started Jama away with most of camels and stores.

1 auob AEB

Xmas menu

Monday, December 25th, 1899.

Broke up camp - rather late owing to sleeping out. Did 3 ½ hours crossing the Hawash river - rather amusing - Clarke swam across - we were all carried shoulder high. Two camels laid down in the middle. We met a large hunting party of galla - clothes were wanting! They all rode splendid ponies. Clustering round us they could not make out our boots, asking if we had only one toe. Getting all across the water we found another stream with very steep banks; got over this with only one camel laying down. Camped on bank- Spent all afternoon in unpacking stores and preparing xmas Menu, as on other page. Being short of meat had to slay a friendly sheep - Bill shot an aoub and dik-dik. Camp Lamafun.

6 Miles. 7 - 11

1 auol WW

1 dik-dik WW

Tuesday, December 26th, 1899.

Called at 1.45, rather early after our xmas dinner. Left camp at 3 o'clock; did 3 ½ hours, when we arrived at our main camp under Jama- Hearing of oryx we settled to stay the night. I had bad luck, wounding a fine oryx and following blood spoor for a miles. During the afternoon we tried another wild goose chase hunt for elephant- P.C. went down to sleep in a zereba as 3 lion were round. He intends staying behind a day or two.

9 miles - 3 – 6.30

Wednesday, December 27th, 1899.

Called at 2.30 and away at 4-50, arriving in camp at Tadechamulka at 9. Found the shune gone to his village, so Mohamed went along to see him. Settled to make our permanent camp here as we near there is no grass and plenty of poisonous tree ahead. I was busy all day repacking boxes and making arrangements for leaving. Joined the main road from Harrar to Adis on our march. Seemed quite like home again to come across a telephone wire. In the afternoon I went down to collect birds at the river. Camp called Tadechamulka - "3024".

9 Miles. 4.50 - 9.

1 auol PC

3 Guinea Fowl JJH

344 Miles Zeila to Tadechamulka.

Thursday, December 28th, 1899.

Up at 4; busy packing our Menelik clothes. Left with all the hired camels at 7.30 - Terribly rough road all over mountains. Reached a telephone station at one o'clock, camels taking 7 hours - We found an Abyssinian in charge - most civil. Nearly 4 when we got lunch, so Ghee and Bill have gone to bed to be called about 10.30 for dinner before marching. A polite message from Menelik, who is going to administer justice on Timbucktoo for his behaviour to us. P. C. returned. Camp called Choba - "4789" (4800).

17 miles. 7.30 – 12.30

Friday, December 29th, 1899.

P.C. arrived in camp after writing up diary yesterday about 5 o'clock. We started at 4 and had a real day's march, getting into Balgi at 2 o'clock. Found our hired boys had refused to come on with camels so we had to collect food from kind friends; one boiled us eggs, another sent a sort of sour bread, others honey, milk and chickens, also a small tent in which we laid our saddles for pillows and the horse blankets for coverings. At dusk. I armed Mohamed and 2 syces and sent them back to see where the camel had stopped with orders to bring in our baggage and thrash the first man who refused to move. This had the desired effect and about 8.30

the party arrived in camp, so saved us a night of shivering on the hard ground. Previously we had made a scratch meal, our cook and boy having come on, bringing a few things they could carry. One inch of candle was all we could raise and it took one some time to keep the bit of wick upright to enable the last to finish his meal. We had a fair good road, and got into a thickly populated district. Balgi itself stands on a high hill, some 1800 feet up, so pretty cool. We came across oxen ploughing and the same treading out corn- I talked to Baird on the telephone and arranged to reach Adis at 8 on Sunday. So far the Abyssinians are delightful and most hospitable. We hear the shune returns here tomorrow. Camp - Baloi

30 Miles. 4 – 2.

Saturday, December 30th, 1899.

Got up ready for an early start, but a telephone message told us to wait orders. However, at 5.30 we got away with 11 pack mules and ponies; such a lot of kicking and impossible animals I never saw. At 6.30 we camped on a hillside - very cold. However, we managed to rig up mackintosh sheets to screen our cots from the wind, and after a rather scanty meal of chickens, rice and honey, we retired to roost. Camp at Shanguara.

8 Miles. 3. 30 - 6. 30.

Sunday, December 31st, 1899.

Up at 3 but a row as to loads caused a delay till 7.40. After two hours we halted and met a Russian officer going home. Shortly after Monsieur Ilg, the Emperor's Councillor of State arrived with 2 ladies and a large retinue. After a short talk we both wended our different ways. After 5 hours we halted at Jamusi, from which place we had a good view of the Devil's Mountain. Stopped an hour for luncheon, then had a long march to Rogeе . Rain at night.

7.30 - 12. 30.

24 miles

3.30 – 7.30.

total 79