Diary Page

February 1900

Thursday, February 1st, 1900.

Called at 4. Owing to fresh loads made us late in starting. Got away at 6, moved on till 10.30. Had 12 men down with fever - two so bad could not start - came on later. We doctored them with pills, quinine and chlorodyne, followed by guinea fowl soup. No water so carried 12 barrels. Ponies and mules all went off back to water last camp; sent 4 men in pursuit. Had to keep camel tied up as poison plant is thick. Mohamed had some soup made of sheep which he had given to each camel as a cure and preventative against eating this shrub - a Galla remedy. Our boys have been looking out anxiously for New Moon which appeared tonight and ended their Ramadan, fasting all last month, so tomorrow is their Xmas Day. Bill shot 2 oribi; I missed a fine hartbeest with my rotten Mauser rifle. Camp Gafurtha 5600.

11 Miles – 6 -10.30

Wrote: Mother, Huzzard, Whitehouse, Ord, P. Clinton, Harrington.

Friday, February 2nd, 1900.

Had an early start. Having a good road able to move in the dark. Up at 2.45, away at 4.20. Did 5 ¼ hours. Crossed the river and camped on opposite bank. Runaway ponies came back in afternoon. I shot an oribi. Heavy thunderstorm - slight rain in camp. Boys keeping Xmas Day - Camp on River Makie.

12 Miles. 4-15 - 9-oo.

Saturday, February 3rd, 1900.

Called at 4 and left camp at 6 o'clock. A little excitement caused by a man, an Abyssinian soldier who rode up just as we got clear of our camp, saying he had orders to take us another road days out of our course and bad camel road. We told him politely we were going our own way! He then said he should raise all the neighbourhood and stop us. This he proceeded to do, people running in from all sides. We only smiled and proceeded on our way. When I came along later I found our friend in the midst of a crowd of native Gallas, armed with rusty old spears. When he found we were not to be humbugged he quietly rode into camp and sat down by the fire, saying he would take us along the road we wanted to go, but he wished us to go along the route of his villages so that he might give us presents. No sooner had we reached camp (after 4 hours) on the edge of the lake than 5 camel were taken sick, turning out the boys had gone to sleep day before and all our camel had been eating poison tree. We killed 2 sheep and made soup with duarra with which all were well drenched; great anxiety for next three days to see the result. Bay pony taken ill and died within 8 hours - usual sickness -

& killed him - also a hartebeeste - at night I went down to the lake and sat by the shore - lovely as the sun set, watching countless birds and hippo sporting about. As I came home I shot a Clarke gazelle. Had a terrible day away on camel, nearly all sick - some ten very bad - numerous remedies tried from firing to doses of salts - boiled dates - sheep and hartebeest soup. Tonight most look better, so we are a little more hopeful- Just at dusk a Galla rode into camp bearing a letter from the Zuguala Shune. As no one could read it. I told the guide he was to take us the road we wanted to go. Bill killed 2 Grant and 1 Clarke, while Ghee shot a fine hartbeest. One bay pony died during the night - the usual hay sickness - only ill 12 hours. We have fed all the Gallas for miles round so no meat wasted. The natives all along here are rather a good looking lot, especially many of the women. The men wear clothing with armlets of ivory or copper, feathers in the hair and necklace of beads, armed with very clumsy ill fashioned spears, also a huge knife chopper with a round point, rather like an Indian cookie.

2 Hartebeest 9 miles 6-10

2 Hartebeest

1 Grant Gazelle

1 Clarke Gazelle

1 Hartebeest

1 Grant

Sunday, February 4th, 1900.

There is no recorded entry for this date

Monday, February 5th, 1900.

Found most of the camel sick - three unable to get up. We all went out to procure meat for camp and try to pick good heads. I shot a wounded Clarkes - three gazelle, and in afternoon shot a female Dukier. Ghee killed a Clarkes – Bill shot two Grant. I saw a leopard on the plateau but no chance for a shot. Had a busy day marking and drying all our skins. Fifteen men down with fever - result of overeating no doubt! Had a heavy thunderstorm with brilliant lightning. Most of camel looking better to-night

Since P. C. went (Total 137) 496 Miles

Tuesday, February 6th, 1900.

Up at six and had a terrible shock to find three more camel unable to get up, while others looked bad again - it begins to make one feel quite hopeless - very sad also to see all our very best camel the worst sufferers while the ten bad ones are quite well. The poison seems to take all the use out of their limbs, though they seem well in themselves. We have five down in camp and four very bad but able to feed. To-night the remainder look better and fed well. I went out hunting and killed three hartebeests for meat.

The first two unfortunately, I killed quite dead, when unless the boys halal the beast before he kicks his last, they won't eat it - so I had to shoot a third animal and except for two good heads, leave all the rest for the vultures, which fairly swarmed in hundreds. They were so near that I took several photographs of the beasts - Bill got 2 Grants and Ghee the same.

Wednesday. February 7th, 1900.

Had breakfast at daylight and after a look at the camel, we all went shooting. Bill got hartebeeste and Grants Gazelle. I was lucky in getting a fine Grant - our largest so far, also a hartebeeste. Crowds of Galla attended so every scrap was cleaned up. I bought one of the huge, heavy native knives. At lunch Mahomed gave us a shock by saying all the camel were sick. After tea we went out to see them at feeding ground and were pleased to find only four or five sick - the rest looking better. The Galla people are very nice looking - good nose - no thick lips - as a rule very good features; all ride well. Half the sick men better. Had the daily thunderstorm - cloudy nearly all day.

1 Hartebeest 1 hartebeest

1 G Gazelle

1 Grant Gazelle

Thursday, February 8th, 1900.

Just after getting into bed, we had a terrific thunderstorm, with a soaking rain. Luckily it only lasted about half an hour.

We all went out hunting as usual - wanting a good supply of meat for both camp and camel. I shot two hartebeest, one Clarkes and one good Grants. Bill shot a hartebeeste and Grant and Ghee also a hartebeest. Mohamed went and attended a native market - bought four good donkeys. Our camp was invaded all the afternoon by hundreds of men and women, who seemed vastly entertained at all they saw. After tea we had a duiker drive, but no success. Made up a mixture of ghee and hot water and soup with which to dose four of the sick camel as a trial. Glad to say forty-nine looking nearly well again, but ten are very bad and not likely to do much good.

2 hartebeest 1 hartebeest

1 Grant Gazelle

1 Clarke Gazelle 1 hartebeest

1 Grant Gazelle

Friday, February 9th, 1900.

Poured with rain for hours during the night, not clearing till 7 a.m. made us late getting up. Hyaena came to our bait, but too dark to see ten yards. Had a great day buying donkeys. By bribing the Shume we were able to

buy twenty-five good ones – strong, big animals and very cheap: great fun for the boys trying them and drawing lots which took which. I shot a good hartebeeste and a Clarke. Bill a Grant Gazelle; our camel forty-nine looking quite well again and three or four of the very sick ones able to move a little. Got several good birds during the day. Everyone delighted at prospect of loading up and making a move in the morning.

1 Grant G.

Saturday, February 10th, 1900.

Up at four and had a business loading with all fresh loads. Got away at six till eleven. Had to leave four poor camel behind, shooting them, being unable to get up. Our new donkeys took some looking after, running away all over the place. All our other camel went well - several going unloaded besides five invalids.

All along our route we were the centre of staring crowds and received most kindly, though the men had taken the precaution to saddle up ponies, in case we turned out a raiding party: It is funny to see the way they stare at our camel, while their ponies and mules simply go mad at sight of them. I climbed a mountain with Clarke and shot a nice Grants Gazelle.

Camp called Wgoo.

1 Grant Gazelle

6 - 11. 13 miles.

Sunday, February 11th, 1900.

Up at 4.30 left at 6 – owing to a Galla saying no water ahead, we lost half an hour waiting till Mohamed came up from looking after a sick man behind. A short march of barely four hours brought us to our camping place on the edge of river, which was merely a succession of water-holes the water itself being of the brightest green colour. All went out shooting on arriving. Bill killed a hartebeeste, Ghee a G. Gazelle and I three G. gazelle. In afternoon I wounded a hartebeest, which on going up to cut its throat, ran away!!!

Springing a leopard we rushed after it - went to ground in the river. Unable to get a shot, rifle being in case owing to pouring rain, which lasted on and off for twelve hours. Had all our sheets, buckets and tins out catching water to drink. One man, Bulalah, after we gave him venaistic [check original] went out and got a chill; did not expect him living the day out. Had a view of Lake Horori.

Camp called Moya.

3 Grant Gazelle. 1 Hartebeest

1 Grants Gazelle

7 Miles. 6-10

Monday, February 12th, 1900.

Unable to start early - camel, mats and everything soaked. Loaded up at 2 moved till 6. Camped on a lovely open plain on edge of big Lake Horori.

In the morning we had a row about meat. After two hours talk things were left much the same, except we raised the camel men's wages 5 R. a month. On moving at one, we found all our ponies and mules lost, Hassan being again the culprit- Being late when we struck the Lake Horori, only just had time to go down and shoot an immature flamingo.

Camp called Lake Horori

12 miles 2.15 - 6.15

Tuesday, February 13th, 1900.

Up at 4.50 and away at 8 - camped at 10.30. While quite dusk I killed a hartebeest, while later on Ghee broke another one's leg, which he and Mohamed then rode down on the ponies. We had a charming camp and splendid hunting country round. Lake Lamina was about three miles off, we being camped on a small river with red water (rather different to the bright green of last two days) which rises closely with a pretty waterfall on a small hillside. In the evening we all went hunting, Clarke killing a hartebeest on his way home from climbing hills and mapping country, while I shot a Grant Gazelle and a record Clarkes.

Camp called Giddo.

1 Hartebeest 1 Hartebeest

1 Hartebeest

1 Clarkes Gazelle 10 miles 6 – 10.15

1 Grant Gazelle

Wednesday, February 14th, 1900.

The usual terrific thunderstorm came on during the night, which soaked all our camel mats, so could not start till two o'clock moving till 6. We crossed a small river on which were some pretty and high waterfalls. We were up at 6 and hunted away up on ridge and plateau beyond, where I got on spoor of waterbuck, after patient tracking I at last shot one of two bucks as they ran across a narrow opening; unluckily I killed the smaller of the two. After cutting the animal up I followed on the spoor of the big one; the bush was very thick and made it hard to get near. After several times starting we struck a party of five bucks, so I turned off after these, when they led me into a troop of some thirty to forty, chiefly cows. I spotted one fine fellow and after many attempts wounded him with a long running shot, which caused him to drop behind; after 2 ¾ hours tracking from the start, I finally killed him – a nice head with huge carcass. It was funny to watch the Galla (Toona) people cleaning up every scrap of the beast – even to scooping up the blood and dirt mixed, in which latter a woman joined.

I had to hurry back to camp, where I found the others in, but no luck, our two nice guides left us here and we took on a fresh one.

Camp called Loka.

1 Waterbuck

8 Miles. 2 – 6

1 Waterbuck

Thursday, February 15th, 1900.

Rain again wet everything, so another late afternoon start. Leaving at 2.45 we camped at 8. Got into dense bush - dark and awful road up a steep hill during the last half hour - a camel ill, and also ricked in the back fell, so Ghee shot him. My best camel also came down but luckily nothing any worse- Our camp last night was noted for the first bad water - smell it a mile off! The Shune also sent us out on a fruitless search for lion, which had been there six or eight months previous. During our march we passed through countless game. Bill shot a hartebeest, and very good duiker. I killed a Clarkes Gazelle. Sick people better.

Camp called Sangora.

1 Clarkes Gazelle 1 Hartebeeste

1 Duika

11 miles 2.45 - 8.

Friday, February 16th, 1900.

After a fine night, got up at 4 and moved at 5.45 over a capital road till 11.35. We carried water with us. Saw very little game on the road. I shot 2 oribi.

We came into a very nice lot of Galla people, who being Mohamedans were delighted to meet our Somali boys, would kiss the camel boys hands, which rather impeded our progress. During lunch Jama brought up a boy to show us a specimen of Abyssinian atrocity; they would bring us presents and accept nothing in return. Native clothing gets less and less.

Walamo hill now looms up only one day's journey. Usual thunderstorm came on just after lunch. All weighed today.

Camp called Alaba.

2 oribi

14 miles. 5.45 – 11.35.

Saturday, February 17th, 1900.

We passed an awful night, rain poured out, camp and tents all in a swim, everything thoroughly soaked. Our boys sat up all night eating the leaves called "Jart", which has the effect of making them exceedingly jovial and noisy. We had a visit from two Shunes, one of whom we presented with a sword. He accompanied us on the way, giving us an exhibition of their native game on horseback. We got our things dried and started at 1.45. Camped among a lot of villages well up on a hill, after crossing a very muddy stream – wara. Bill killed an oribi.

Camp called Jaggah.

1 oribi

9 miles 1.45-6.15

Sunday, February 18th, 1900.

A light shower during the night did not prevent our being up at 4 and making a move at 5.30 till 11. We found we had to retrace our steps an hour, to get over a deep water cut ravine, which kept all hands pretty busy. After clearing this we ascended a long steep hill once under cultivation. This proved to be only a spur, and led us down into a horribly deep gorge with the river Batha at the bottom. We had a rough job getting out, having road to cut out; took many loads up on donkeys, though we managed half the camel up safely. We found we had gone one hour out of our road day before - this we had to retrace, wasting over two hours of our marching time. We camped on hilltop as camel were pretty tired with their climbing. No game round so we had a quiet afternoon in camp marking heads and skins. After an early dinner the usual thunderstorm started - lightning splendid. Soon after getting to bed rain began in torrents and lasted most of the night. Our tents smelt strong, having all our skins in for shelter.

Camp called Angara.

5 miles. 6.30 till 10.30

Monday, February 19th, 1900.

After so much rain we had breakfast at 9! Went out for an hour to look for meat. Crowds of natives came to look at us on their way to market at Walamo. Soon as camel mats got fairly dry we started at 12.30 till 5.30. Finding Walamo still two hours off, we camped just in time to get things fixed up before rain started. We were at once visited by many of the residents, bringing us presents of eggs. The country is now looking very nice - green grass in abundance and a few flowers springing up.

Camp called Gachenn.

11 miles. 12.30 - 5.30. (100 miles)

Tuesday February 20th, 1900.

Luckily we only had a few slight showers so got up at 5 and camped on the Walamo market place, moving 6 to 10.30. We had several awkward ravines to cross, but by the aid of camel mats on the wet muddy banks, we got across safely. Walamo consists of a very large number of kraals, each one separate and standing each in its banana grove. We came across quite new trees up here and from the hill had our first sight of Margarite Lake. We have tried Cp. Wellby's story of people going mad, if the Walamo people watch

them eat; so far we have had all our meals with an audience of hundreds. On arriving we visited the market and found the place packed. We took a few photographs but were so mobbed by people wanting a look at us, that we returned to camp, being close by and on the main high road, we were surrounded all day by visitors, who seemed much interested to see camel. At night the Shune, who looks after the market, called and of course brought presents. We bought honey ghee and duarra.

Camp Walamo.

8 miles. 6 - 10.30.

Wednesday, February 21st, 1900.

Heavy rain, so had a late breakfast, starting at 12.30 till 4.30. Had a lot of people up for medicine, chiefly for eyes. On our march we were escorted by a crowd of natives, all our journey was through very pretty country. All the roads are fenced in with cactus hedges, while each kraal stands separate in its little garden and banana grove. In the afternoon I went out to photo kraals, and nearly frightened two ladies, making pottery, to death. They thought us Abyssinians, prayed for mercy, offered one what beads they had and I went a mile to camp so as to get them a present of beads and bells to pacify them. The money here is a thin

band of iron about 2 feet long and one inch wide (16 to the dollar). We passed the mountain of Walamo, which stands 10,400 ft. above sea level - looked very pretty with its kraals and patches of cultivation up to the very top. Just after dinner the Shune's headman arrived with about forty men carrying presents. They consisted of four splendid fat sheep, eleven baskets full of native bread - holding 360 cakes, twenty-two jars of native wine, eight pots of hot curry sauce, one tin of butter, over one hundred eggs and twelve bundles of firewood with four chickens. We gave him drinks with a sword and presents for Mrs. Shune of blankets, scissors and razors.

Camped on the roadside Dalba (Walamo)

8 miles. 12.30 -4.30

Thursday, February 22nd, 1900.

A fine night, so were called at 4. Off at 6 till 11. Good road – had a fine view of Lake Margarite. Have three guides along but plenty of kind friends join in. We camped on a market place under a splendid large fig tree- During the afternoon we had some photos and spear throwing, also visited the adjoining market- At night we had a most terrific thunderstorm, rained in torrents, big tent blew down in the gale.

Camp called Humber.

10 miles. 6 – 11

Friday, February 23rd, 1900.

Had to spend a late morning in bed. Camel mats dry about 11 so loaded up. 12 till 5.30. A long, hot, tiring march for camel, having to cross several deep water places, all the ridges running down to the Lake - ended up with a river whose sides were rocky and steep, so we had to build a road down which we managed to pass all the caravan safely. The constant rain has taken all the flesh off the camel; still it has given us grass and water. We are still passing through a thickly populated country, mostly cultivated. Have seen some splendid big fig trees; a few flowers also, such as lilies and wild iris; butterflies several new varieties lately; quantities of bees are round. So funny at mealtime, you see not a single bee, but open the lid of the honey tin and in two minutes you are hardly able to eat honey without bees also! The yarn of eating before Walamo people has proved a myth, as we all still have health and appetites!! Camp called from the river Bunga on which we are camped. Decided to rest camel one day - tired and thin from the rain.

Camp called Bunga- 5300 altitude.

11 miles. 12 – 5.30

From poison camp 14 days = 157 miles.

Saturday, February 24th, 1900.

Up at daylight and went out to look for meat. Bill shot a Clarkes; I got one also and three oribi. We sent ten men along the road up to top of hill, to make up bad places and see what the road was like. Heavy storms all round us during the night but we got off with only a slight shower. Splendid feed here for camel, which wanted it badly after fourteen-days moving with rain daily.

1 Clarkes Gazelle 1 Clarkes

3 oribi

Sunday, February 25th. 1900.

Our hopes of a fine night on going to bed were terribly upset and at 5 a.m. - just when boys were getting up to load, rain began and for nearly four hours we had a perfect deluge with thunderstorms on every side- we were obliged to wait and dry mats, also all our tent and worldly goods, as water simply ran through the tents like a mill race. We started away at 1 o'clock and for five hours had a good road but all up hill, rising 2200 feet, reaching Baroda about 5. Camel all tired - Had a splendid view of Lake Margarite.

Camp called Baroda- 7500 altitude.

8 miles. 1 - 5.

Monday February 26th, 1900.

Luckily had a fine night, so were called at 4 - moved off at 5.30 till 11. Very dark morning and being so high up were in thick clouds. Just after starting we met a party in gay garments and different coloured umbrellas - turned out to be a priest and his acolytes, who at once set up a chant and turning back accompanied us over 7 miles of rough hill climbing to camp, where I photographed them and gave them five dollars. In the afternoon the 2nd Shume of Baroda carne to call - Nujara, the head one, being away at Adie, he brought no end of firewood, grass for ponies, four sheep, wine, ghee and honey with many baskets of bread. We had some terribly heavy climbing again, with several bad places in the road to make up, the hills being very wet made things all the worse for camel. After lunch Mahomed having collected some forty Galla, went along our road for three hours, making up all the bad places, to save time on the march.

Camp called Galasha- 7600 altitude.

7 miles. 6.30 - 11

Tuesday, February 27th, 1900.

Had to wait for a start till the roads got dry, having some very bad places to negotiate. Luckily only two slight showers, so started at 8 till 12. We had made the road before for some 3 miles, when we came to a narrow gorge through high banks, and thickly covered with timber. Here the steep road in and out across a stream at the bottom for some half mile was quite impossible for camel. We worked for over one hour and then passed all the caravan safely over. We had to shoot one camel here - been a bad one all along. We climbed hills which looked quite impossible for camel. Just got our camp set straight when it poured down; being so high up we get no sun - all in fog and cloud. Heavy showers continued all the afternoon and made things look pitiable. About teatime the head man of Fiterauri Doris arrived bringing presents borne by 277 natives, who swarmed along the road as far as one could see. We sat in the tent while the whole string was paraded in front - 2 fine heifers, chickens, 800 pieces of bread, wine, ghee, curry, honey, eggs, scores of bundles of wood and grass, with barley for ponies.

With pride the headman said this was merely to see us over the night, so what is coming on reaching his village tomorrow, remains to be seen. Today we passed through some tropical country, as far as plants only went!! Cocoa-nut palms and tree palms, bamboo, and very fine wild blackberries. At night we made a large bon-fire - best we have had since our start.

Camp called Dory: 3900 altitude.

6 miles. 8 - 12.

Wednesday, February 28th, 1900.

Poured with rain during the night - road impassable; camel all looking half perished, some too stiff to get up till fires were lighted round to thaw them out. Have a view of Margarite, which they say ends opposite here. Men gone ahead to make road and fetch natives to help us in with loads. Started from camp shortly after 2 - about one hundred natives carrying half our loads. Directly after leaving we got down to a deep river at which Mahomed and ten men had been working all morning. Unluckily a shower of rain made matters worse than ever, the ground giving camel no foothold. We had a terrible job getting camel over our temporary bridge,

several going into the water, had to be lifted out. We never thought we should get up to our camping ground and it was dark before our last loads arrived. A mile before camp I was helping to take up the leading string of camel, when I came on about 1,000 people sitting on each side of the road. I was at once rushed along to find Fiterarauri Doris sitting (been there hours waiting) in state waiting for us. After warm hand shakings I was led to his own gaily caparizoned mule, but with Abyssinian stirrups and a kicking steed, I could not mount. At last I climbed on to another and was escorted by some 700 soldiers in a regular procession to our camp. After getting all seated and a bottle of champagne opened with great pomp, the people bearing presents were paraded past. Bill had luckily just arrived shortly followed by Ghee. It took nearly one hour for all the people to pass by and deposit their loads, as follows:-

181 grass, 146 bundles of firewood, 89 native bread, 61 Ghee, 15 honey beer, 12 honey, 8 butter, 10 barley for ponies, 6 chickens, 2 cows, 2 camel, 1 eggs

- a total of men, women and children of 531. After bidding us adieu we had some real good fires lighted all round to warm camel, while the boys had a night of it among the food.

Camp galled Gogo- 9400 altitude.

4 miles. 2.30 - 4.30.