Diary Page

February 1904

Monday, 1st February, 1904.

After four hours I turned out before dawn and set off to visit Lado hill; found awful country and only one mud hole and one little spring. Hunted round till midday; saw hartbeest, very shy, and one fresh rhino spoor; but hopeless to either stalk or track; most disappointing. On the way home I killed a bush-buck - excellent eating. A busy afternoon in camp and the big chief Kenion arrived, wishing to conduct me himself to where the animals came at night. After visiting several mud holes with no results except just missing an elephant by a few minutes, we slept out all night so as to make an early hunt further away. My one soldier seemed terribly afraid to go out with four natives - made many excuses to get off going.

1 Bushbuck

Tuesday, 2nd February, 1904.

Needless to say I was off the hard ground before daylight, and having only a small cap had to get back before sun got too hot. After 6 hours of walking, got to camp at 9.30. , shooting two wart-hog 3 miles from camp; sent donkeys to fetch them in - saw nothing else, and no fresh spoor; shall push on further.

Having arranged with King Kenion to find me 20 porters for a moonlight flit, we finally got away at 8.30 – only did two hours when we landed up in the main street of Sheik Fariala . After taking full possession of the place and getting water, he invited me to stop and show me game. Not wishing to hurt the man's feelings, I said I would, so I bid farewell to my old friend Kenion and we bivouacked. My first good night in bed although he wanted me to go off then and there

8.30 p.m. – 10.30

2 Warthog

Wednesday, 3rd February, 1904.

Up at 5.30 rather late. Hunted thick bush and I fear I hurt my host's feelings by not slaying Giraffe. I pretended to stalk them but took good care to make them move on. We then tracked four elephants for 1½ hours, and on coming up with them, they all huddled together and the only fair tusker was quite out of danger: another long run and again I got up to two, and fear I lost my prestige by merely firing in front of their heads. Natives only want meat and don't like one not killing anything.

I shot three bushbuck on my way home. To please the Sheik I started out for his big water at 6 p.m. - found

it the usual mud hole! Had hardly taken our seats when watchers ran in to say elephants were coming - good to hear! Being dusk it was difficult to estimate the size of tusks; first 6 or 7 came, and being all small, we got round to windward and let them pass; then a cow and calf stalled along. At last 20 came up and stood in a semi-circle about 25 yards off suspicious of danger. I could not now see half of them and my chief turned very surly at my not having killed him one. The natives are a bore- won’t bother after Rhino and Buffalo - always hanging after elephants; easier to hunt. Got back to Camp late - about 12 o'clock.

3 Bushbuck

Thursday, 4th February, 1904.

Rested later. Only had 3 hours to try for meat but no results. Sorted out loads to leave here with 10 donkeys and 3 soldiers. Had a few drops of rain at night - cloudy day. Sent in a runner to Lado with letter to the General. My friend Fariala was very loath to let me go, but I told him I would return and shoot him an elephant for his pains. About 12.15 at night when the moon got up, the Sheik arrived with 20 porters; only taking 2 donkeys along, we did three hours and rested on the ground.

12 p.m. – 8 a.m. (1 ½ h. rest).

Friday, 5th February, 1904.

Away again at 4 and pulled up in terrific heat at 9.30. I had never seen a sign of game and hearing water was 3 days off I halted and sent off for the requiring man - also told us there was hardly any game - so all our hard trek for nothings At 5 same afternoon we started back. After three hours laid down till moon rose at 4*, when the caravan went back to old camp and I set off in another direction to hunt and visit water places. Saw a little fresh buffalo and rhino spoor, but quite impossible to do anything, unless by luck one runs on to them.

Saturday, February 6th, 1904.

After turning for home I came across some harte-beeste shot badly but secured a couple for meat - one a nice head. Had 3 hours hot trudge into camp and found my tent fly missing only day I had settled to have it up, as the trees shade so badly. Really it is disappointing work as I am on the move day and night, but a hopeless country. One can hardly get near to one's water bottles and buckets - thousands of bees always sucking at them - been stung several times.

Had two splendid pots of honey presented to me. The Sheik is a great swell here; owns one cow and a pair of khaki trousers, also an old steamer deck-chair, which one of his Court carry round

wherever he goes. They are really most kind to me and do their best to please; they bring me all the milk the one cow gives and apologise that the hens cannot lay and look after chickens same time! I wish one could find out a preventive to thirst - it’s awful. The water is lovely – rather like pea soup - filters no use, so I alum & boil when time - so far eaten nothing but soups and rice puddings - no appetite for solids.

4 a.m. till 11.30

2 Hartebeeste

Sunday, February 7th, 1904.

Wonderful lightening all night and heavy thunder in the distance. Had a few drops of rain during morning. Hope weather is not going to play pranks. I was up at 5 and away hunting miles off. Saw nothing so shot a giraffe by way of return for all the Sheik’s kindness. Preferred this to shooting a poor elephant. Sent in for cameras 8 miles so did not get back till after 2 p.m. Too late to go off and sleep out as I had intended; got giraffe’s head skinned and hung up. Warmest night we have had so far – could not sleep.

Monday, February 8th, 1904.

Got up before daylight and went to find water by moonlight, then hunted country round towards home; only shot a few birds.

At 2 o’clock Faralla and 8 men came in to carry me along to sleep out at a fresh place. I made my camp, consisting only of my bed and food box under a big tree in kraal garden, and then set out to visit the water, about one hour beyond. Saw plenty of hartebeest and buffalo spoor, but nothing came to the water which was a half dried up swamp, smelling strongly. Very pretty to watch all the birds come in to drink at dusk from all sides. Opened my first Mrs. McMillan plum pudding and though the frying pan was not brought along I found it excellent eating cold with sugar and new milk. Had a good night – nice and cool.

2 p.m. – 5.30.

2 warthog

Sunday, February 9th, 1904.

Got up - very moonlight - and accompanied by Faralla's brother went off to visit another water. Of course nothing there, so I decided to hunt round some nice looking Rhino ground and hope to still find something feeding. Soon came on some fresh buffalo spoor - wet mud from their morning tub being dropped at intervals. I determined to try and spoor them up, so away we went. After about 2 hours I spotted our friend strolling across

a fair bit of open bush country about 50 yards off. I must say I felt he was mine unless some bad luck. Taking him well forward as he crossed I saw he had got the bullet well home; swerving round in a circle he came along directly at us. I waited a bit and then at only 25 yards off, I gave him my favourite shot, in the chest, raking him from end to end. He was evidently no badly knocked about he could not charge up and turning off fell down some 70 yards on. I was delighted to bag him - a very fine old bull. Sending boys back I sat by him 2 hours till my whole escort arrived. From 11 till 4 we were hard at work, skinning, (photos or course), and cutting up, as I wanted to bring in the whole skin and skeleton - a tall order. Really flies were awful - a small tiny one, quite a fresh creation, but they simply covered one and walked quietly into your ears, eyes or mouth. A 2 ½ hours trek back brought us to our main camp. I felt pretty tired after working all day. Take a day or two now preparing the skin.

1

1 Buffalo

4ft 9 1/2 at shoulder

6.7 root of tail to horns - tail 34 inch

7.6 girth at shoulder

Horns 26” 12 wide 4 - 6.30pm

Wednesday, 10th February, 1904.

Up early and started cleaning skin and skeleton of Buffalo - a long job. Farriala arrived in camp with it about 3 a.m. accompanied by porters and torch bearers. I don't remember ever seeing a more weird scene than the cutting up of the animal - "bad meat" as the natives call it, because it is dangerous. Soon as the skin was off, about 40 men, my Belgian soldiers among others, all started cutting and hacking to get meat, while women scooped up blood and entrails into gourds, off the ground or anywhere, and tiny children crept in between the men’s legs or anywhere to cut off a bit; assegais and long knives were all in use. I had an awful business to keep an eye on the skeleton not being spoilt; as it is a bit of the neck is now missing and had to send a guard back to look for it. Intend moving tonight and camp begins to smell a bit. Had a most enjoyable night; used a blanket in the early hours.

6-7.30am

Thursday, 11th February, 1904.

Porters arrived very late, was 6 o'clock before we got a move on. Fariala escorted us to Kenion where we camped under an old tree. I sent in a soldier with letter to the General and 5 porters with trophies.

An hour and a half saw us into our old camp - the poor grey donkey carrying the huge buffalo skin, seemed quite lost. At 3 o'clock 6 porters and 2 soldiers started out with me for the Lado hills; took up 2 ½ hours to reach the little pool. I found the bigger one is quite dry and this is giving out fast. I have only brought along my got, table and two boxes - shall be out only 2 or 3 nights. My last try for white rhino, for which I mean to hunt all day. We have to keep awfully quiet - stuck away under some thick bush. We don't occupy more than 5 square yards including the donkey: the boys all sit pretty close, awfully afraid of leopards from the hill; they feel safer if pretty close to a white man.

Friday, 12th February, 1904.

Up by moonlight and hunted miles of country till 11 o'clock; saw only what I thought was a roan antelope - did not fire when an easy shot, being after Rhino and taking it for a water buck; tracked him for miles but never got up to it again.

Awfully hot - laid in camp till 4, then out to the tiny water hole till 8; pity no moon- too dark to see anything, but could have shot leopard, water buck and hunting dogs - 8 of which stood close to me. So ends my white Rhino hunt!

Saturday, 13th February, 1904.

Up before daylight and did 2 hours back to camp at Kenion. Had food and divided caravan – Captain and 5 soldiers with Ferriala and 9 donkeys started for Redjaf. I came in with 3 soldiers and 19 porters; started at 10.30 and got to Lado at 6, walking hard 6 hours – good days work of 6 hours, or 25 miles. I brought in all my skins and heads. Dined as usual with the General and other Belgian friends.

Sunday, 14th February, 1904.

Repacking and letter writing. Had a long talk over maps with the General, settling my best plan of campaign and route. Have quite decided on returning by the Congo; trying to get Ochapi (Doumbi) in the big forest there. This way home seems to be quite the best and quickest. I forgot to say on previous day I had sent in a big pot of honey with skeletons as a present to the commandant, but bad luck, my porters met a herd of elephants and chucking their loads bolted up trees. I hardly believed it, but on passing sure enough there was the broken honey pot and 20 yards off spoor of 3 elephant. The country is all the Baris tribe. Steamer arrived from Redjaf.

Monday, 15th February, 1904.

Got all my repacking done during morning, so now am anxiously awaiting arrival of steamer Abbas. Sent off my 3 donkeys in charge of 4 soldiers to walk to Redjaf. While at lunch a baby started yelling on the island some 200 yards into the stream. Soldiers were called in and sent over in a boat to know why all the noise was allowed. The Commandant's children, Emma and Anna, are nice little girls. Found a Greek here with the longest name I ever saw - Pappathanassopoulo - "it means Pappa - a priest; thanasso - name of child; poulo - a grandchild". The army in whole Congo numbers about 14,000 - 5,000 of them being in the Enclave.

The system is to change the people over - those enlisted in Tanganicka going to the West, while they are brought to the De Welley district. The army is most popular and many stay on 9 or 10 years. They are well treated and when they leave are free men. They love authority and carry a rifle. Each soldier is allowed a lady - if he marries her she need not work, if not she has to. On leaving very few of the soldiers or women care to return to their own homes - generally start a fresh village somewhere near the district they have served in. No Abbas Pasha arrived - a day late now.

Tuesday, 16th February, 1904.

Busy with letters all morning. About 2.30 steamer was sighted - arrived at 4. Had a lot of letters and papers by it. I went up to Gondokoro by it and stayed the night there. Cp. Bramley came on board. Miss Spence and Poole also on board with Mrs. Mannering. Mosquitoes bad up at Gondokoro which we reached (4 hours) about 9 o'clock.

Wednesday, 17th February, 1904.

Had quite a cold night on deck. Several of us went to breakfast with Bramley and then sailed at 10.30; back at Lado at 12. Abbas sailed again at 1.30 with Russians, mails and my trophies. Got all ready packed to start in the morning. After dinner I found my bungalow had been looted - presents for the Farriala, blue clothes and my hunting shirt taken. The Commandant took my boy and placed him in prison. We all dined at the Mess - band playing and champagne!

Thursday, 18th February, 1904.

Breakfast at 7 a.m. After all baggage was on board the steamer Vanderbkhaven sailed at 8.15 and reached Redjaf at 3.15. The whole way band and colours turned out to say goodbye, besides half the ladies waving farewell.

Quite a pretty sight as we left the shore, where I had been so hospitably welcomed.

On reaching Redjaf I found all my caravan well, accompanied by Farriala - the latter I presented to the General who gave him a letter and presents.

Another band and review of troops welcomed our arrival. This is quite a charming station - standing up above the river; hardly any mosquitoes, and generally a breeze. The old Emir Pasha fort is the site of the town - and an old bronze cannon still remains, taken from the Dervishes the year before Khartoum fell. I have a charming bungalow.

Friday, 19th February, 1904.

Busy all morning - getting ready for a two days' hunt; got maps - porters, clothes and other items before saying goodbye to the Nile. Sat waiting the arrival of natives, but they only came in at 6 p.m. I at once got a start; trekked from 6.30 to 8-30 then slept till 5 a.m. and trekked till 12. I went out after food and hunted

Saturday, 20th February, 1904.

all the east side, but saw no rhino spoor. Shot some meat. At 3.30 I again went off went to visit a water - quite a pretty rocky pool in the dry river. Stayed till dark. Awfully jolly watching the hundreds of birds coming to drink - all sorts

of guinea fowl, sand-grouse, spur-winged plover, ibis, stork, heron, egret, blue jays, sunbirds, kingfishers and lots more I did not know. Found the soldier frightened and bolted at dark back to camp, where I got to 8.30. After supper had a heavy shower of rain: hope it is not starting. Worked 20 hours out of 24. Ready for bed.

1 Hartebeeste

1 Waterbuck

Sunday, 21st February, 1904.

Up before dawn and away to look for rhino. Hunted far and wide but saw nothing in the way of spoor, so shot another hartbeest and then rushed back to camp. Started porters at 10 o'clock and with only a 1 ½ halt got into Redjaf at 5.30, having done 18 hours work out of 24. I had a lovely bathe in a pool, three ladies doing same at the other end! Found Col. Borton arrived so we had a great farewell night - champagne and all sorts of luxuries. Quite ready for bed!

1 Hartebeeste

Monday, 22nd February, 1904.

Started my 25 porters off about 7.30 and after breakfast said goodbye to the kindest of hosts. I never experienced so much kindness from the General down. My stay has indeed been most interesting and enjoyable. At 9.30 I took my last look at the Nile, on which I had been for 6 weeks - and wondered what experiences one would have before completing the long and

arduous journey to the Congo. I have just done my first little trek along the big road they are making to run the heavy goods motor. I find all the ladies here wearing a large band of green branches behind and a smaller bunch in front - quite a novel get-up and cheap. Rained nearly all the trek - getting worried at it starting so soon. Changed one donkey for £5 cloth and sent 4 to Gondokoro to sell. Cannot get boys to load them - nor any rope to fasten, so am only attempting to load 3 turn about. Had awful bad luck - got both my only water bottles broken up within an hour; all boy's carelessness with donkeys, - luckily one can be repaired I think. Walked my boys off their legs did 7 ½ hours, late into camp.

1 White Rhino

Hours

1 3/4 9.30-11.15

3 1/2 2.30-6

2 1/4 6.30-8.45

7 1/2 = 22miles

2 Hartebeeste

Tuesday, 23rd February, 1904.

Raining when we got up. Four of our porters bolted, but doubled up light loads and another donkey, so no delay. Made a long march 4 ¼ and 5 ¾ and reached rest house at 8 o'clock. Quite a delightful march, country so different – bamboo thickets, flowering shrubs of many kinds.

4 1/4 6.30-10.45

5 3/4 2.15-8.0

1 Bushbuck 10 = 30 Miles

1 Hartebeeste

1 Duiker

Wednesday, 24th February, 1904.

Up at 4 and did 6 hours into Loka where they would have me stay the night. I had 20 ladies perform a dance which I photographed. They all wore the leaves from waist both before and behind - gives them a very quaint look. Eland are said to be near here. Splendid place to collect birds also.

Loka is a charming place and supposed to be the healthiest station in the enclave, invalids all being sent there. Met two very kind hosts – Lieut. Graziane, an Italian, and J.P. Browne, a Scotchman. They were too kind; gave me many presents and would pay my porters.

18 miles 6 4- 10.

Thursday, 25th February, 1904.

Up at daybreak and got an early start. Well supplied with food, milk bread and excellent butter. Met Com Serexhe and Com. Vandercruysen at half-way station. Did a long trek into Yei which we reached after dinner. Here I was most hospitably entertained by Capt. Ernesto Ceris, Cp. Bertinetti Valentino and Lieut. Cisci Michele. They would not let me pay for any porters same as Loka. Before reaching Yei we had to cross a very pretty river - ferry boat over.

6 6 - 12.

35 miles 5 ½ “ - 2 -7.30

Friday, 26th February, 1904.

Porters came in at 8 so I started them off about 9 and followed later. Soon after starting heavy thunderstorms came on and it rained steadily for 3 hours. My rifles and cases in an awful state. We did 5 ½ hours and then had some tea and donkeys fed for two hours.

Pushed on again and landed up very late at Libryo as 4 porters ran away and delayed us two hours. Rifles all red rust and no chance of getting covers dry. Lions were rather a bore as they accompanied us just on our right flank for some miles grunting! As my rifles had all got in front I was not keen to be attacked. After midnight when we turned in.

17 Miles 5 ½ 9 – 11

13 Miles 4 ½ - 7 - 11.30 p.m.

Saturday, 27th February, 1904.

Up at 5 and did 4 hours into Abba – where I stopped for lunch with the Commandant, changing porters and soldiers; paid my porters 2 pieces of cloth (32 yds. in all) among 30 of them. Country between Yei and Abba quite changed; no good trees again. Saw some nice butterflies before Yei but seen very local and scarce. The flowers are mostly trees - one tree has a yellow and a white flower just like a gardinia, so sweet; another a huge bouvardia; another a curious white feathery petal with hard nut inside - besides a tall species of orchid. Left Abba at 4.30 with 32 porters - they went at a tremendous rate, no donkey keeping up. We did the 12 miles in 3 ½ hours - passed a bit of plain, but soon returned to the usual thick short bush. Very tired - glad to turn in early.

13 miles 4 ½ - 5.45 - 10.30 a.m.

12 miles 3 ½ - 4.30pm - 8

1 Lioness

Sunday, 28th February, 1904.

Up at 4 and away 4.45., found trek only 4 hours but must have done 15 miles - pace terrific. Saw elephant and Rhino spoor on the footpath, Lots of water on road; rifles in awful state after rain. Camped near a pool of water – shot 12 small birds and 3 other long feathered night-jar. Trying to preserve them with formalin. Thunder storm all round but missed us, so trekked at 4 till 8.

15 Miles. 4.45 – 8.45 a.m.

15 Miles. 4. - 8 p.m.

Monday, 29th February, 1904.

Got an early move on, much to the boys' and soldiers' disgust, as lions were all round roaring. Left at 4.15 quite dark- Three and a half hours brought us to Farradge – a charming station. Had a big river to cross by boat. Found an American here who is prospecting for two years. Porters busy catching the flying ant, Bakila, and eating him alive - an oily luxury much appreciated - a huge animal. American called H. Dickman, (Hazleton - P.A.), looking very ill after black water fever Com. Camillo Celebrini di S. Martino received me most kindly and gave me assegais, knives, pineapple and butter. Had great luck in getting 32 porters in at 4 o'clock as those three days before had all bolted. The buildings are chiefly brick and been fortified.

I had one hour's sleep after lunch for the first time on trip, as I feared we were going to be delayed by no porters. However, my royal letter as usual made them hustle - in fact it places the whole country at my feet. Both my boys sick so gives me extra work. I am establishing a real record for this trip - about 210 miles in 7 days - useful going. The porters walk out well - do quite 4 miles an hour. I am now sitting in an old kraal, heat very bad, the native chieftain sitting in front, his present being an antiquated cockerill. Last night we trekked late by the moon. 12 o'clock when we went to bed.

12 miles. 4.15 a.m. - 7.45.

4.30 - 7pm

18 miles 9. - 12.p.m.