Diary Page

Wednesday, February 1st, 1905.

Busy packing all loads. Sent out yesterday to gather up porters. Donkeys all arrived at lunch by road in charge of 5 soldiers. Had a farewell dinner and great discussions on European affairs.

Thursday, February 2nd, 1905.

Started away with only 33 porters, so had to leave about 12 loads to follow us up by river. Porters started 7.30 to 11.30 = we started 9-11.45, 2.40-3.30 and 3.45-5.20. First day out takes a lot of shaking down into order. Nice cool morning but very hot after lunch. Crossed a big dry river and several smaller ones, and camped on River Matteti. Fine night – only slept under the fly.

a. m.

9 – 11.45 = 2.45

3 – 5.20 = 2.20

5.5. = 15 Miles.

Friday, February 3rd, 1905.

Up before daylight. Treked 6 - 10.45. Awfully hot. Crossed river and had midday tea on a pool called Libado. Saw water-buck. Found some smart looking Baris starting to build a new village on Belgian side; told me they were, many of them, going to cross over from Uganda. Village called Lebado; Chief's name Ioquey. Treked again 2.30 - 4 when we reached the post on river Kaya - such a pretty station and charming Italian host. Great job getting loads and donkeys swum over the river. We had to go down Nile in tiny peroke.

1 Bushbuck. 6 - 10.45 = 4 ¾

1 Hartebeest 2.30 – 4 = 1 ½

6 ¼ = 18 Miles

Saturday, February 4th, 1905.

Up at 4.30 and accompanied by my host had a long ride out to look for buffalo, elephant or rhino, which are all along the Kaya river. I had a real good toss off B's mule and then we could not catch him again for 3 miles. B. shot some birds. I took several photographs. Heard a lot about Cotton; how he tried to induce B. to go along with him - said I was not coming out; how he gave old shirt and hat to corporal and 6 soldiers for six weeks work, besides 5 piastres for a boy to look after his mule and donkey for 14 days! Grand hunting country, and once been thickly populated.

Sunday, February 5th, 1905.

Said goodbye to my kind host, an Italian who knew me in Abyssinia - by name Lt. Romer de Rubenstein. He gave me sheep, chickens, milk and eggs. I started off with most of loads, leaving B. to push on when back loads and porters arrived. Started 6.30 - 9.10 and 9.50 - 10.35 when I halted for heat of day. Such a pretty bit close to the Nile - took several photos. Thirty-nine porters passed at noon, going in to fetch out our back loads. Terribly hot marching. Crossed two places which will be nasty to cross during the rains. Marched 2.30 till 5.30. Nile scenery very pretty. Hippo about and several small buck. Sleeping out as rain seems off.

Duiker.

6.30 - 9.10 = 2.40

9.50 - 10.35 = .45

2.30 - 5.30 = 3 -

6.25 = 18 Miles.

Monday, February 6th, 1905.

Up before daylight and off. Had a steep climb up the mountain, 3 donkeys going over the side; luckily no worse but took a lot of getting up. Several hours was over broken rocky ground, covered with bamboo jungle. Rested during heat at a very pretty pool. Last hour of treking was through a beautiful undulating park country - full of villages – never saw a prettier place. Found Captain Renzi and Lt. Zinno waiting to receive me. I had hardly got in when B. caught me up, having ridden through in one day. Loads are following. Beautiful cool night.

5.50 - 8 = 2.50

8.30 - 11.30 = 3.30

3 – 5.30. = 2. 30.

8.50. = 23 miles.

Tuesday, February 7th, 1905.

All our loads came in at 12 o'clock, so sent out for porters; only got 35 so had to leave 10 to follow later. Found my pet grey donkey quite lame. Did 4 hours and got very dark before we camped at a big kraal - Bute Matare - who, when he heard our object was to hunt ochapi, said we must be mad or drunk! Big hippo shot in Nile in the morning before we left. Natives all busy burning grass. Some of the mountains look splendid at dark all outlined in fire against the sky line.

4 - 8 = 4 = 10 Miles.

Wednesday, February 8th, 1905.

Up at 4 and away at 5.40. Porters quite hopeless and did nothing - sat down and rested more than they marched. By 9 o'clock we reached the foot of the mountains when our porters said we must halt and feed as no water for a long way. This we did at a pretty river Kayo, where we photographed and bathed. At one o'clock we began to climb the hills - awful going for our poor donkeys. We took 2 hours getting over when we stopped at 4 and rested porters and had dinner. Alas, my best grey donkey is dead lame - ricked the shoulder - awful bad luck. Went on again at 7 expecting to do a long moonlight trek but only did some 1 ½ hours and porters turned fractious so had to stop. Slept in the middle of road.

6 - 7.50 = 1. 50.

8.50 - 9.10 = 20. 9 Miles.

Between 1 & 4 = 1.45.

7 - 8.30 = 1. 30 4 Miles.

13 miles

Thursday, February 9th, 1905.

Away at 5 a.m. and did 3 good hours when we halted at the old town of Dufile North. Spent heat of the day in the old Commandant's deserted house. Pushed on 2 hours and rested awhile, and again 6 to 8. Met a soldier who was on the lookout to announce our arrival at Dufile. Huge bush fires burning. Commandant Landeghem met us a mile out - most charming man. Mosquitoes thick. Slight shower of rain.

5 - 8 = 3.

2 - 4 = 2.

6 - 8 = 2.

7 = 18 Miles.

Friday, February 10th, 1905.

Awful gale and dust storm rose during the night. We are lodged in excellent house and found all most comfortable. Sold one donkey for £4. Commandant gave me 2 necklaces and 2 small tusks. Emin Pasha old tree (fig) is in front on river bank where he used to administer justice. The falls are situated about 2 hours north of the town. Our left loads came in today and after repacking we are sending off by boat 14 loads to meet us at Waddai. We are being most hospitably entertained, a young cow having been slaughtered. We are taking a day off getting ready to start when porters are collected. Gave the commandant a watch. Took a lot of photos in afternoon.

Wrote: Mother, Admiral Hamond, Mathews and G.M.

Saturday, February 11th, 1905.

Up at 4.30 and started away our porters, 50, at 6 o'clock in charge of 6 soldiers. We breakfasted and marched at 7 till 11. Camped under a splendid big tree during heat of day. One kind host escorted us along the road. He has been kind - provided every luxury and ordered all food and porters to be paid for between Dufile and Waddai. Having double porters we did a good morning march across a plain with mountains on our right.

Moved away again at 4 o'clock and did a tremendous fast and long trek, camping at 8.45 in a big kraal called Elo. We were terribly annoyed by mosquitoes both on march and after camping. We saw monkey and lots of small deer. Porters went well, never once putting down their loads. Did our longest march so far.

7 - 11 = 4 hours = 11 Miles.

4 - 8.45 = 14 Miles.

25 miles

Sunday, February 12th, 1905.

Up at 4.30. I went ahead and shot a Bohor. Carried it along for soldiers to eat. Only did 2 ¼ hours and had to wait over for porters. Started again in heat of day 2 to 6.15 when we reached a big kraal of Mokotana Bagara where we met a French officer looking over roads. We had a few drops of rain just after going to bed which made us all get up to cover ourselves in.

1 Bohor 5.45 - 8 = 2 ¼ - 6 Miles.

2 - 6.15 = 4 ¼ - 12 Miles.

18 miles

Monday, February 13th, 1905.

Up early and I went ahead, as we had to wait for fresh porters. I saw lots of elephant and rhino spoor in the big marsh, but evidently during the rains. Reached the village of Lei and camped in the hottest and most windy, dirty, dusty hole I ever experienced. About 20 loads came in at 10 and shortly after boys all ran away. Gathered up more and sent off to Esa most of loads. About dusk 6 more loads and a soldier with a note came saying Brown's mule had run away and unable to catch it, so he was going to follow on soon as porters came in and catch me up. I moved on at 9 and after 3 changes of porters got in about 2.30 to Esa where our other loads and 3 soldiers were. Got a fine horned white rhino - tip square instead of pointed.

6 - 9.15 9

1 White Rhino 9 - 2.30 9

1 Hartebeest 18 miles

.

Tuesday, February 14th, 1905.

Started away with some 45 porters at 6.15. Passed all through a splendid country, chiefly in view of the Nile. Whole place padded with hippo. Crossed some huge swamps but all dry and lots of small game on. Porters marched a terrific pace - never saw them after they once got away. Mohamed down with fever. Mosquitoes quite awful here - hardly able to write or eat dinner. Sorry Brown has not yet arrived. I left him a donkey behind, also food. I only did one trek in consequence. Skinned some birds, attended a native dance at night. Had to turn in at 7, mosquitoes so bad. Brown arrived in just before midnight tired out. Never saw his mule again; this is second bit of bad luck.

1 Bohor. 6.15 - 12.15 = 18 Miles.

Wednesday, February 15th, 1905.

Left camp with 40 odd porters at 6. After 2 hours marching struck a double river which we had to wade through above the waist, my donkey laying down in middle, when I had to

rescue notebook and watch from pockets under water, but this was merely a taste of troubles ahead. We suddenly found ourselves in a huge papyrus swamp. We struggled through in about two hours; donkeys being absolutely stuck had to be dragged, lifted and pushed. Standing up to one's waist under a hot sun, working in mud and water was awful. On getting out we found our porters had dumped down all the loads at the kraal and gone. However, we luckily got others without delay. Pushed on till 1 o'clock when we met Capt. Cerio (Italian) who had a tent pitched while taking a survey of the Nile. He was so kind, being one of my old Yei friends. We settled to lunch and dined with him, and sent up our heavy baggage with Siy Mey and sick wife by river to Wadelai. Alas, owing to this our third accident happened. In moving a cartridge box while stowing in boat the cord handle got wrapped round the end of my third finger on left hand and it broke or smashed up the tendons as it hung down and no use in it; turned me a bit queer for a while. Hoping to find a doctor at Wadelai. I sent in a runner and moved in at 9 to 12. Glorious moonlight night and splendid road. Porters changed loads 3 times but never put down loads.

I found a note saying no doctor on our Waddai station, so my poor old finger will have to remain in its present rough splints. I left Brown behind with bad attack of fever. My boy is also bad, so it is wretched luck to be bothered at such a time. So ends a very unlucky day.

6 - 1 (2 hours in swamp) = 5 Hours. 13 Miles.

9 – 11.30 = 2 ½ “ 8 Miles.

21 miles

Thursday, February 16th, 1905.

Found our Dufile boat up with our baggage. Brown arrived in at 9. We went over to English Waddai but found Cooper gone on trek. Bought stores. Had finger dressed. Sent cable home and letters. Loaded boat with baggage for Marghi. Left grey donkey Jim behind. Our 2nd Lieut. host Angele (Italian) was most kind to us. Mosquitoes were very bad here.

Letters at Waddai. Mother, Lily, Ada.

Friday, February 17th, 1905.

Left with 30 porters at 7 a.m. Did 3 ½ hours good road. Laid up all day under shade of tree and fly of tent - heat bad. Had a light repast at 5 of soup and omelette, and then treked for 2 hours, Saw large herd of water-buck and lots of fresh buffalo spoor. Slept in a big kraal. Lovely moonlight night. Sent letter back about hippo ivory. One boat with baggage reached same village.

7 - 10.30 = 3 ½ = 10

6 - 8. = 2 = 7

17 miles

Saturday, February, 18th, 1905.

Up before daylight at 4 a.m. and off at 5. Heat became terrific by 9 o'clock. We did 4 hours and halted in a funny little kraal, to whom we afforded great amusement with our antics, especially shaving. I took a lot of photos, chiefly groups of ladies who like the Locha belles only wear a bunch of leaves. Found our other grey donkey lame - bad luck. Got a good supply of eggs, chickens and honey. Tribe Allurie - eggs, 1 brass wire worth ¼ d each; chicken worth 1 yard of cloth, 9d each; sheep - 3 yards 2/3d. We bought here 4 glass spikes which natives wear stuck through the lower lip. Started at sundown and did 3 hours more when we camped on the footpath. Such a perfect cool night and no mosquitoes.

5 - 9 = 4 hours. 13

5 - 8 = 3 “ 11

24 miles

Sunday, February 19th, 1905.

Up and away at 4.45 and after 4 hours at a terrific pace we reached Mahaji at 9 o'clock. Camped under a lovely old tree with open shed adjoining, under which I have got my bed. Sent off 35 porters to get our baggage from the boat. Had some excellent tomatoes here. Not much of a post this and no good houses. Soldiers huts only mud. Mahaji port on the Lake, 3 ½ hours off.

4.45 - 8.45 = 4. = 15 Miles.

Monday, February 20th, 1905.

Had finger undone and washed and rebandaged. Afraid it will be very crooked and evidently top sinew broken as well. Had a terrific gale and dust storm early on last night - rather made hay with my bed which was out under a tree; then about 9 o'clock an eclipse of the moon started and lasted some 2 hours. After that a sharp thunder storm just missed us. Our baggage arrived at one o'clock from the boat so I had a very busy afternoon packing. Left a lot of stuff behind us here and now we are waiting the arrival of a few more porters to get a move on. Fine herd of cattle here so lots of new milk and fresh butter. Took several photos of ladies working in the gardens. Not enough porters in so went to bed, ready to start on their arrival.

Letters to: Lady Orford, Gertie, Mother, Mathews. (10th to 12th)

Tuesday, February 21st, 1905.

Porters came in quite early so got a start at 4.45 with 35 carriers. Climbed the hill and then had a splendid road. Looks a grand country and cool fresh breeze. Did 4 hours to Matanga called Boku. Grey donkey now gone lame. Plenty of eggs, potatoes and tomatoes here. Being a cool day pushed on and slept at Mongallula, crossing the mountain in dark - 3 to 7.30. Big station N. and several soldiers.

4.45 - 9.15 = 4 ½ 14

3 - 7.30 = 4 ½ 16

30miles

Wednesday, February 22nd, 1905.

Got in 40 porters just before daylight, so got a good start. Passed a small matanga 1.50 distant from M. where we got some fresh milk. A long trek of 4 hours brought us to next matenga on a hilltop kept by 3 or 4 soldiers. So far not seen a head of game, and no trees. Nothing but hilly undulating country; looks very fertile. Left again at 2.30 till 6. Slept at Moka. Had a good many lady porters, also one for my rifle. Passed district where one or two soldiers have been killed. Very rocky but falling ground, now in the Congo watershed. We had a most warm welcome, being met by all headmen and people who carried us in. It is a charming spot, right up on a hilltop – horribly cold at nights! Enormous track under cultivation. Passed through heaps of common bracken. This is the head of the big tribe called Balindo and seem most charming people. Being Mrs. L.M's birthday we had a celebration and drank her health in our one and only bottle of wine.

4 ¾

3 ½

24 miles

Thursday, February 23rd, 1905.

Lots of porters within call so were away early, 5.15 - 7.45, 8 - 10.45, and after 15 minutes to change porters at a small matanga called Kalu pushed on at a terrifie pace to Boku. This is quite the

nicest place so far - splendid mountain stream just below. Passed through first bit of forest and saw the first grey parrots. Got milk, eggs and tomatoes, also found several curios to pick up on return; want coarse cloth. Whole country is under cultivation and a most happy looking lot of people. Nice banana avenue approaches to the charming matanga. Used to be a Belgian station. Looks down into what looks like a huge crater of some 2000 acres - all inhabited and full of life and bristle.

These porters go singing along - horns blowing, drums beating, and every now and then the whole lot blow together - sounds like a hippo blowing. Started off 3.15 till 5.15 when we were told no matanga ahead, so stopped off at Loei. Whole place thickly populated - thousands of people. Got new milk and eggs here. Chief asked for powder.

5.15 - 10.30 = 5 ¼ = 17

3.15 - 5.15 = 2 = 6

23

Friday, February 24th, 1905.

Up at 3 and had to await porters collecting till 4.40, then treked till about 11.10. Passed a small matanga only 1.20 called Kaparatta. Two and a half hours further on we struck Demarina and 2 hours later Likisabo. Here bridge broke down and shot 3 of our loads and carriers into the stream. Found road goes off to the Kilo mine at Demarina. Seem to be out of the hills and got into a more rolling hill country.

Women here for about one day all wear the huge piece of oval wood cut into the top lip - spreads it out like a fan - looks 2 inches round. Many others wear the glass point standing up in the upper lip. Left at 8.15 and reached Kukuma 5.15. Nice matanga and lots of people. Travelled whole day through a most delightful country, teeming with population. Lots of eggs and milk.

6 ½

2

24 mile

Saturday, February 25th, 1905.

Got the chief to bring in porters early and got away at 4.20. Moved along with only one hour's stop till 12.20 when we reached the last matanga called Kabungo; stands on a hill surrounded by huge banana groves, of which we have now a surfeit. Just as we intended pushing on at 2 o'clock a terrible thunderstorm came on and stopped us moving till 5. This made it 8 before we reached Irum. Naturally being pitch dark they had given us up and so had dined. However, all our loads and donkeys got safely in by ten.

Feb 25th.

7 28 Miles.

3 129 Miles.

Wrote: Mother, Hussard, Carvey, Gertie, Mr. C. Constable, Mollie Ferguson. (Cards: Hilda Willoughby, C.P.Clinton)

Sunday, February 26th, 1905.

Had another bad thunderstorm. Busy making arrangements for our trip into the grand Forest, only a few hours distant. Made plans to get into touch with the pygmies. Big dinner at Mess; Lt. Jemuenynete, Chef de Secteur, Ostende, Rue Christine, Belgique.

Monday, February 27th, 1905.

Got a lot of porters in about 10 a.m. Left 4 donkeys behind. The 0.C. treated us splendidly; gave us all we wanted and five soldiers. I treated the big chief of the district to a bottle of whiskey and a demi john of wine, also 2 blankets and some cloth. He sent out round to warn the country and let the pygmies know we were coming. So at 11 o'clock we left and did 5 hours when we just missed a fine thunderstorm. Reached the great Ituri river and took over our baggage and donkeys in a big peroke to the village called Kafuku. We were most warmly received and found a large band of pygmies all come in from the forest to greet us. They at once started a dance to two tom toms. Two of their old chiefs were flat nosed and rather hairy. The little ladies were rather nice. I took several photos and then gave them all beads and salts. Bought several curious knives, necklets, arrows and an ear ring.

I succeeded today in inducing a boy of 18 to go along and said he must try and get some of the others to come. He is called Bartie and a quaint little chap. Clad in his red blanket he heads the cavalcade.

11 - 4 = 5 - 18 Miles.

Tuesday, February 28th, 1905.

Elephant said to be numerous so I went out. Saw hardly any spoor. Thunder in distance and rain most of the day. Gathered some orchid plants. Got our porters back across the Ituri and started them off about 10.30. With a little baggage, 2 donkeys and several men we went down by peroke. Bad luck - had no rifles ready, and passed 3 small congo buffalo standing looking at us on bank. By the time we returned they had gone. Lunched on the bank, then passed through the rubber collecting people who were most cheery, singing away at the top of their voices. Turning up a stream out of the Ituri, we found it too shallow, so running in to a steep landing place seven of us got ashore to walk up. Suddenly we were attacked by hundreds of flying ants, which put us all to flight. Brown retired up to his waist in the river, the boatmen all fled and donkeys jumped overboard. I followed the two men who had climbed the bank and rushed along among the bush, but got horribly stung.

Going on to the village of Myarabeau we just got there with our first porters; found 36 fresh porters arrived from Irumu. After getting settled I photographed and then a large bank of Pygmies

arrived and danced splendidly - most weird dances. I showed them Okapi and elephant, also tic-a-tic photos, which caused much amusement. We gave them all beads and salt and they promised to come and see us again, but our friends of last night all fled, could fine none when I wanted to go up and photo their homes. We are camped in a very small clearing of the forest. One of our donkeys nearly got lost in a bog, only its nose out.

10.30 - 3.30 = 5 - 15 Miles.