Diary Page

January 1909

Friday, January 1st, 1909.

Off at dawn - road indifferent - paid off another sick boy who wanted to return home. Hired several porters as we came along. Did 5 ½ hours, about 17 miles, and camped at Kahombo - a nice hill and fairly clean rest house. Passed a small camping place, Kahabara, 3 hours 10 minutes march from Kekegwe, and 2 ½ hours from this Kahombo camp. Porters came in very late, last arriving about 5 o'clock. Found a large staff of people working at road and bridges.

(Carried over 40½ hours 121 miles)

5 ½ Hours - 17 Miles.

Saturday, January 2nd, 1909.

Found two porters gone during the night. Living near they meant working their way home; luckily I owed them money. Managed to get 7 men from the road lot. Did 4 hours 50 minutes or about 14 miles to Kahoura; a nice rest house on good hill from which we can see the range of hills Toro lays under. Fasco cut his foot very badly and deep on a glass bottle. Passed Matidi 7 ½ miles from Kahoumba, and about same from Kahoura. Just seen first grass fires; awfully late. Last night the Chief said he saw 14 lion a few days ago, also lots of buffalo. I gave all the porters their food - 2 R.

4 ¾ Hours - 14 Miles.

Sunday, January 3rd, 1909.

Our Chief of last night turned out a splendid fellow. Brought us up six porters to sleep in camp & 2 others who wanted to go with us to Toro, so we were able to get away at 5.30, and 6 hours brought us to camp at Mahangwi, our old camp on hilltop, after about 17 miles trek. We passed Malengi 2 hours from Kahours & 4 from Mahangwi. Country all under smoke from grass burning.

(carried over 50¾ hours 152 miles)

6 Hours 17 Miles.

Monday, January 4th, 1909.

We found some very kind friends here who supplied me with 8 porters right through to Toro. Ernest is down with fever - left at daybreak and did 4 hours, 12 ½ miles, to Mahoumbie - a nice rest house. Here my safari slept, but after lunch I went on with 13 boys and in 2 hours, 7 miles, reached Toro at 3 p.m. Sorry to find Mr. Haldane away, but had left orders for me to use the old Government camp - glad to find Osborne waiting for me. Mongu had gone home. Had a long yarn over dinner at night.

4 Hours - 12 ½ Miles to Mahoumbi.

2 Hours - 7 Miles to Toro.

62 ¾. hours 188 ½. miles

Tuesday, January 5th, 1909.

Safari came in at 8 a.m. I paid off all hired porters & also any of those who wanted to return home. Busy all day repacking loads - sent out headmen to bring in another 40 porters. Had tea with Dr. and Mrs. Bond at the Mission. Met the King as I went up to take him his photographs. Finished off some letters.

Wednesday, January 6th, 1909.

The King of Toro came to have a meal at 10 a.m. Decided to start today. Did a bit of shopping and wrote letters. Got 36 porters in afternoon and left about 5 o'clock. Took us two hours and camped at Busarja. Met Mr. Chesney coming in from prospecting.

2 Hours - 6 Miles.

Wrote to: Mrs. Causton. Phyllis. Lady Orford. Mrs. Wrohan. Lady Mowbray. Wills. Lily. Flora. Bertie Smith. J. A. Haldane.

Cards to: Miss Willoughby. G. Cathcart. Lady Glover. Willie Bethell. Archie Butler.

Thursday, January 7th, 1909.

Just as I called porters at 4.30 Mr. Rokie rode up on his way to Toro. He stopped while we had breakfast. Started off down the hill at daylight and two miles along came across a fine elephant - 80 lb. tusks - standing close to the road. Longed to have a go at him. Camped at Mondeva. Mr. Buckland came in to stay night. Professor Kressovitch also came in - a Russian.

4 Hours - 13 Miles.

Friday, January 8th, 1909.

We had quite a dinner party last night and talked till nearly eleven o'clock. All up about 4.30 and moved off at dawn. As we came down the hill into the valley we saw a lot of buffalo in distance. While on march we met a lot of food sent in by the King for porters. Osborne shot an antelope. I took a lot of photos of our safari buying food and crossing the Semiliki river. Only doing short treks. Camped on Semiliki.

2 ½ Hours - 8 Miles.

1 Antelope.

Saturday, January 9th, 1909.

Got a good start, leaving camp at 5.20, so had a cool trek across the valley. The cook carried me over the stream and I took a few photos of ladies at our market and crossing the stream. Find a new rest house built on the hill since last year. Sent off a letter to Mr. Van Marcke. Osborne gave all the natives a good turn on the gramophone last night at Semiliki camp. We reached Kilyano after about 3 ½ hours.

3 ½ Hours - 10 miles.

Sunday, January 10th, 1909.

Started early 5.20 and reached Metegu about 11. Rather rough hilly road. Grass pretty high in places. Met runner with letter from Mr. Van Marcke asking us to Kuesi. After lunch Osborne started off on his donkey to go and pay our respects and settle time for calling on him tomorrow. I am occupying Mr. Rokie's empty house, sleeping in my tent. Osborne returned just before dusk and we arranged to go on to Kuesi in the morning.

4 Hours - 12 Miles.

Monday, January 11th, 1909.

Had all our porters up and brought along all the Toro and Entebbe boys with loads to Kuesi, leaving 23 loads and our regular porters for congo behind to rest. Two hours and a half brought us to Kuesi where we were met by my kind friend Mr. Van Marcke, who also, to greet us, had hoisted a Union Jack made by himself for this special event. We paid off our porters and are being most warmly entertained by our kind host, who has already made a most charming station and bungalow.

2¼ Hours - 6 Miles.

Tuesday, January 12th, 1909.

Osborne left camp at 6 o'clock to pay Chief Boneira a visit, and see if we would have a kind welcome. Had a terrific thunderstorm in afternoon. Sent boys over to bring all rest of baggage from Metega. Osborne returned late and wet through, and reported all well. Wrote a letter or two, being mail day.

Wrote:

George Banks.

Toro Post Office.

Wednesday, January 13th, 1909.

Our porters arrived with rest of baggage. Another heavy storm in afternoon. Busy packing and sorting out cases. Took some photos of the Pygmy elephant skulls.

Hausing & Sons.

Bertie Smith.

Thursday, January 14th, 1909.

Up at six, sorted out porters for loads and had to leave 11 behind, as we only mustered 27 men. Had breakfast with our kind host and then started away at 8 o'clock. Did 3 ½ hours over hill and dale, with nasty long grass. Reached Bomeira about 12 o'clock when we had a storm. We were met in state by all his retinue and escorted into his audience house. Sent back 15 porters to fetch loads. Charming situation. Took photos of some kids. Busy repacking loads. Chief holding a prayer meeting.

3 ½ Hours - 11 Miles.

Friday, January 15th, 1909.

Had a very heavy rain in morning. I started away at 8 o'clock with 21 porters, accompanied by Boneira and his retinue. Two hours brought us to the river, 1 ½ hours to the hilltop, and reached Bomeira's swamp camp in 5 ½. Took us one hour going down the mountain side, and another hour right into the Semiliki flat. We passed some grand scenery, some of the finest wildest gorges and canyons I have ever seen. We had to wade through a mile of swamp and high grass to reach our queer little stockaded camp. Osborne turned up long after dark with 12 porters who had arrived late from Kuesi. Wonder he found the road. Boys all tired after their heavy climb down some 4000 feet. Mosquitoes bad.

5 ½ Hours - 16 Miles.

Saturday, January 16th, 1909.

Heavy rain delayed us starting till 7 o'clock. About three miles of swamp and long dense grass had to be negotiated before we were able to get a sight of 5 elephants. Only way to see them is by climbing an odd ant heap and tree, or hoisting a boy on another's shoulders. Really this stuff is

quite the worst I ever attempted - almost tempting Providence. At last we came within 25 yards of the beasts, but the 2 in sight I could not see their ivory at all. They began to stalk straight up to us, besides others on our right. When within about 12 yards I had to fire, a shot I do not care much about. However, a shot in the eye dropped him stone dead. There was a wild rush in which we wounded another. After this we wended our way home. Arrived back wet to the waist at 12 o'clock. Note came in from Rokie at Metega. Nesto down fever.

1 Elephant. 65 lbs. the pair.

Sunday, January 17th, 1909.

Away from camp at 6 o'clock. Awful work plunging into swamps up to the waist just after getting out of bed, but it is no use shirking for one has to get wet through. After 3 mile walk we struck the Semiliki and got into a canoe, drifting down the river some distance. Hearing animals in the high sudd we drew up to the bank. Just as Osborne got on shore a huge crocodile jumped into the water, and before he got a yard another huge beast did

the same, so near that it almost touched him and gave him a scare! Going on we came up to 5 elephant. After creeping up within a few yards of 3 I found all cows. One came up within a few yards and I was afraid I was in for firing, but luckily she went off and we retired gracefully. On our return I again heard elephant, and following them up soon came on to them. In this quite impenetrable stuff one has to creep almost up to them to see if any ivory. Unfortunately I got into a mess - they were cows and the beast only a few yards off got my wind and charged. I had no time to move and let go at her head. Almost at the same instant I ran and jumped as far as I could into the thick grass to the right. An awful row followed my shot as the whole crowd converged on the one I had tumbled over. Luckily they ran across and she on rising turned after them. I never saw such a mess of blood and I was curious to see where I had hit. I was soon after her as I heard her blowing and stamping and shrieking, showing she was about done.

Poor old thing had only gone 100 yards and dropped. My bullet had gone through the trunk, into the cheet, and evidently into the lungs, for I never saw an animal so quickly stopped. Naturally to kill a cow makes one hate the sport, but it is really foolhardy to attempt shooting in such awful country. We were well out of what might have been a nasty fix. Quite the hottest day so far. During the afternoon Osborne gave all the village ladies and Bomeira's wives a gramophone concert.

1 Elephant.

Monday, January 18th, 1909.

I was so disgusted at my bad luck of the previous days that we decided to at once leave and go on to try two other camps further on. Leaving early we went about one hour, crossed a small river and then hunted a bit. Returning to the kraal of Bomeira's mother, found him anxious for us to sleep there. However, the country was too awful, so in the afternoon we moved on, Osborne by road, I in a matunda, going down the Semiliki. For two hours we passed

a continual stream of horrible looking crocodiles. Then we heard elephant and my men would have me get out. Going along in awful stuff 8 feet high we at last came up - in fact they were feeding towards me. I congratulated myself on thinking I would at last really be able to pick out a good beast. I was out in an open bit of grass, quite short, and suddenly out 7 elephant came. All got wind as I was only some 12 to 20 yards from the lot. Not a tusker among them. Two beggars were particularly nasty and after a hasty glance along the line I took the outside one as she came for me. Got her fair in the eye and dropped her at once. Then I turned to face another huge beggar, yelling at her loudly, and luckily she turned and saved me having to murder her. Really one's luck is cruel. I went out determined to chuck the business at once. Went down and picked out a spot for camp. We were in the middle of elephant, hippo, crocodile, and hundreds of water-buck. Thousands of mosquitoes.

I had a long shot at a water-buck, but with my heavy rifle not much chance. We camped on the edge of river, and had slight showers at night. I paid a visit to a crocodile's nesting ground. It was full of their nests. We dug up and destroyed a lot of eggs, and I brought three away and blew. I felt very down at one's luck, both for waste of time and the necessity of killing useless stuff.

1 Elephant. 40 lbs. the pair.

Tuesday, January 19th, 1909.

We were up at dawn and at once started off our few porters by land back to the kraal, while we took to the matundi in hopes of visiting better ground; not a bit of it; worse than ever, and I refused to try and go up again but went back to the river and steered for home. Lunched at the kraal and then returned to our head camp. Got all our loads out and at 4 o'clock left to get on the first of the foot hill. We are now camped looking down on the whole valley and into a wonderful deep gorge. Temperature cold, and no chance of mosquitoes. Took us 1 ¼ hours.

Letters from England, December 5th to 8th.

Mr. and Mrs. McMillan.

Lily.

Haldane.

Duers.

Phyllis.

Kate.

Valentine.

No Papers.

Wednesday, January 20th, 1909.

Had a splendid night's rest - nice and cool and no rain or mosquitoes. Up at 4 and away at daylight. Our porters climbed the hill in splendid form, and we arrived back at Buddah in about 5 hours. Spent the day settling loads up again. Heavy storms going on all round. Sent a note to Kuesi.

16 Miles.

Thursday, January 21st, 1909.

Thick fog in morning delayed our start, also had to wait for our guide. Only got 2 miles on way when we had an awful storm. Stacked all baggage and then got under the sheets ourselves. Dripping wet graes - none burnt. Three hours trek brought us to Burumu, a nice Congo village in a deep valley. Got lot of eggs and posso. Took 12 photos of village beauties. Bomeira sent us on milk and eggs. Letter from Rokie. Bought two ivory bracelets from Wallego. Have a fine view from here; can see Kifuku hill, also the long line of black forest, stretching along the other side of a wide valley, full of rivers and long grass, with patches of forest.

10 Miles.

Friday, January 22nd, 1909.

Left at 6 o'clock with two guides, went along the Irumu road for 2 hours and then took to the grass, making our slow and tedious way in the direction of Quesi. We passed through a large patch of forest which had been well tracked with elephant before the grass firing. We at last struck a few Mackenzie huts at 12 o'clock and put up the fly while the boys rested. Got lots of food and eggs. At 3 o'clock when just moving on a boy came in to say he had seen 5 elephant - one big one. We decided to have a hunt so pitched camp. One hour and we saw several feeding in the long grass on a far off hillside. I sent Osborne round down wind to lay in wait, while I stalked them up wind. He had a splendid vantage point, sitting on the bank of a thick deep donga. I never had such a rough hour's work in my life; the grass 9 feet high, terribly thick, and climbing up a big hill all the time. We could see nothing and at last came up to the other side of big donga where we saw Osborne's men sitting.

At last my guide spotted our quarry among the thick stuff. Four of them were on the move, slanting up our side of the hill. I began to run forward to try and get ahead and see if any good ivory, when suddenly two barrels were fired by Osborne behind one. In a few minutes Nesto and I saw 3 elephant coming up straight for us. I called to my boys to run as they were cows. I stood my ground a bit hoping they might swerve off. Seeing this no good Nesto and I tried to run up hill; only got a few yards and found it impossible, so jumped back behind a small tree sapling and waited for the end. The leading cow came up at a tremendous pace, and catching sight of us a few lengths off, charged smack at me with an awful shriek. She was not 1 ½ lengths off when I luckily crumpled her up with a shot in the eye; so near a shave was it that she hit the tree in falling and then rolled back down the hill, but alas my bad luck had not ended, for from behind her charged down a third grown beast. I yelled at it in hopes of scaring it, but alas no go, and I

had to give her another in the eye. Certainly I am having the most cruel luck in my life; after all one's hard work and careful hunting to every day get hung up with cows. We hardly had time to think before the third cow started coming along again. This time we got a bit of a start and managed to get a few yards away and then both shouted loudly and luckily she did behave decently and go off. We then went down and found my cow had already charged Osborne who had given her two shots and turned her. No wonder she was in a jolly rage when we met her. Osborne had picked out the only bull out of 14 and succeeded in laying it low. Very long but thin nice tusks; disappointing for weight. We were both pretty well done after 10 hours work in such country.

6 Hours - 15 Miles.

3 elephant

Saturday, January 23rd, 1909.

Heavy rain again at 5 a.m. Got our hosts and some boys away to get out the ivory. About 9 o'clock the old ruffian, Kickimoula, walked in to call, but we were very short with him.

Boys brought in tusks about 1 o'clock and then we did two hours trek. Struck the Irumu road and camped at Candini, a small clearing in the forest. We got a lot more eggs and heaps of posso.

2 Hours - 6 Miles.

Sunday, January 24th, 1909.

Moved off at 6 o'clock, rain delaying us. Met the post. We did 14 hours to one of Bomeira's song. Here we got a guide and faced an awful hill - another 2 hours climb. When we got up we found the whole of the hilltops lined with armed natives - all their villages deserted, and though we sent out our guides and Nesto it was quite useless trying to get into touch. We worked our way right over and round the big hill, hooted and jeered at by armed crowds who said they were not any friends of the white men. I felt very sorry for them and after seeing the country beyond was no good for hunting, we decided to chuck it. We then left a heap of salt in the middle of one of their villages as a peace offering. This evidently made them think better of us, as they gradually

followed us up closer and closer. An hour further on we camped in one of their villages - utterly deserted. Before long they got over their standff manner and became quite friendly, fetching us food and watching all we did. I got several photos, also some of the Walendus. Cannibal folk brought us in food from the opposite hill. Name of these warlike people are the Walega. It shows how easily one can get friendly if going the right way to work.

Monday, January 25th, 1909.

We had a most peaceful night and at dawn Osborne set out for Boneira's and I for Quesi. Our friends came out in scores and escorted me for miles till I got on the main old road. Not a spear or weapon of any sort was worn, and even the villages were not left by the ladies. I had a wretched hard up and down hill march for 2 ½ hours and 10 feet thick grass. I gave them a lot more salt. About 4 ½ hours brought me to Kuesi where I found a warm welcome from my kind hoet who gave me a lot of charning curios. Sent letter to Rokie - ours gone to Bomeira.

Tuesday, January 26th, 1909.

Had a quiet day. Finished up my English letters. A large safari came in from Mongalla with some fine ivory. Osborne turned up at 4 o'clook from Bomeira with all the porters I had sent over at 6 a.m. He also brought back my English mail.

Wrote:

Miss Litchfield. Mrs. Collister. Wills. Mrs. Wrohan. Phyllis. Comd. Engh. Miss Dunbar. Mrs. Banks. G. Cathcart. J.A. Haldane. Mrs.Monckton. Cp. Boyton.

Letters from England, p. Dec. 16th, 1908.

Wills. G. Featherton. A.E.B.Smith, p.Jan.6th. Gertie Millar, p.Dec.30th. H.Litchfield, p.Dec.9th. G. Cathcart.

Wednesday, January 27th, 1909.

Finished all our packing. Leaving 4 loads for Rokie and 19 of our own for Lesse. We started off about 3 o'clock only having a short 2 hours march. Cemped at Kabia. Bought two nice ivory trumpets.

2 Hours - 6 Miles.

Thursday, January 28th, 1909.

Up at 4.30 and with 3 guides started off to hunt the many promised elephant and buffalo. Guides took us out for one hour's walk in the forest and big burnt grass and then said one elephant sometimes had been seen in that part! Wasted 2 hours before reaching camp. Left at once and had a nice cool march of 4 ½ hours to O'Peddies. I paddled in one river - so nice and cold: boys all rolled in it. Sent off 1 sick porter. Also wrote to Imboga and Kuesi, Chief came - looked an awful wreck.

4 ½ Hours - 12 Miles.

Friday, January 29th, 1909.

Up at 4.30 and had a long wait for porters. At last by giving O'Peddie a bottle of brandy we got away. Did 4 ½ hours at a great pace, going along the hilltop looking over the Semiliki. Camped at Marubi, a very hot and dirty little kraal. Bought a very funny necklet. We did well here for food, eggs and poultry. Had 7 extra porters, so eased our own men. Sent one man back sick to Toro.

4 ½ Hours - 15 Miles.

Saturday, January 30th, 1909.

Up very early. Sent Machandi home. Climbed down the Semiliki hill again and had some very steep ups and downs across the foothills. Did 4 ½ hours, about 12 miles; mostly through the forest. Road bad and not kept up. Camped at Undepanga, a miserable little shed called a rest house. Came across a huge swarm of Mackenzies and Pygmies on the road, ready to give us a dance; all their drums out; said we came as friends so they did not run away. Midges awful pest here. Had usual storm. Photo of Buenzori and group of Pygmies.

4 ½ Hours - 12 ½ Miles.

Sunday, January 31st, 1909.

Up early and waited round for news of Mackenzie scouts. Our Peddie porters took to the bush. Got three or four quite useful little carriers. Started away about 12 o'clock - all through thick forest. Very wild scenery: one or two very steep bits. Got close on to the Semiliki river. Four hours quick marching brought us to Lesse where we found Mon. Leon Tacq waiting to greet us. This is quite a new post in dense forest. We had a lovely view of Buenzori which is exactly opposite.

Wrote: Lady Orford. Darby Griffiths. G. Featherton. Wills. Cp. Beinarts. Telegram to Hausing.

4 hours 14 miles