Diary Page

January 1900

Monday, January 1st, 1900.

Left camp at 7.30 arriving at Adis Adeba at 12.30. Found Harrington and Baird waiting lunch. They most kindly had got us splendid tents in their compound and made us their guests. Got all latest telegrams and letters. At night the Italian Minister, Mons, le Capitaine Cicco de Cola, asked us all to a most charming dinner and New Year's entertainment. I unfortunately was feeling very seedy and with difficulty got through. After dinner we had native music and dancing. Had to ride our mules 3 miles across country to dine: coming back in a pouring rain, pitch dark and numerous rivers to cross!!

Letters - Mother, Kate.

Tuesday, January 2nd, 1900.

Played round all morning; lunched late, waited for Harrington. Afterwards we rode round leaving cards on Russian, French (Mons. Legoude with whom we drank sweet champagne), and our dinner cards on the Italian Resident. Just got home before dark, rather late for dinner. Weighed up our ivory 135 lbs for Menelik. An Irishman here called Mckelvey, been here 30 years, is now major domo for Harrington; was one of the 4 who caused the first war.

Wednesday, January 3rd, 1900.

Getting up at 6 some of us went out with the greyhounds to have a course after hare or Jackal. I rode a nice grey out and the mare given to the Emperor by the Queen on return. We had one nice little spin. After breakfast made a move to the town shopping; here we were sadly disappointed, finding they had nothing. We paid a visit to the Church - very quaint - a round circular building with verandah round; inside a strong smell of incense. A square boxed up place occupied all the centre of building, merely leaving a broad passage some 8 feet wide round - the altar inside, no doubt - while the square place was covered with cheap linotype pictures of the Cross, Crucifixion and Virgin Mary. Then we were

taken below into the vaults, or rather vestry, where we were shown all the vestments and sundry cheap articles with the greatest pride: The nation has professed to be Christian since 300. The town itself of Adisababa is situated in a ¾ circle of hills, the place being scattered over a space of 3 to 4 miles. In the centre is built the Menelik house, but all over are scattered huts and tents of all sizes and conditions. The place is not level but a series of undulating hills, with dirty streams of water running in all directions. About 2 French and 2 Greek stores are all the European places, the Italian, French and Russian residencies being scattered apart at foot of hills, while our English compound has the best site in the place, at the foot of a high hill with good water. The Emperor is an early riser – up at 3, when he transacts all the business of his state, his own particular one being Shoa; then he administers justice, attends to the whole state affairs, while he spends many hours in a lofty dome watching the city round through a telescope. About 300,000 men could be placed in the field but not kept there long. The big men here all ride a mule with a led horse behind them, while scores of attendants armed with French rifles run in front and behind.

Thursday, January 4th, 1900.

Played about camp. Lane and Wetherall came to say goodbye. The Italian came to dine and sleep. Had 12 out of 20 of our sheep worried by hyaena. Rained hard all night and part of the day, and horribly cold.

Friday, January 5th, 1900.

Wet night and wretched morning; all sat round talking plans and shivered. At 2 o'clock we prepared to dress for our state visit to the Emperor. We looked awfully funny - dress clothes and pumps, terai hats, old capes and great coats: Arriving at the palace at 4 o'clock we found the Emperor seated on a divan, resting between rose coloured cushions placed on cheap French carpets extending in front, round which we all sat in a circle. We were each separately introduced and shook hands after which a most free and easy conversation was carried on by the aid of the interpreter. We found the Emperor a most delightful person and he took the most keen interest in each visitor - was delighted with our present of ivory and gave us all the leave to shoot and travel. He also asked us to his huge lunch on the coming Sunday. Behind the throne stood some 14 of his relations and big men. He was clad in a loose black satin robe

trimmed with gold spangles, green trousers, with a white cotton handkerchief tied tightly round his head. In one ear he wore a diamond earring - mark of having killed an elephant. On his left small finger a diamond ring. The throne room itself was a square building of wood and plaster, about 20 feet square, open at the front with some lattice work about. Standing about 5 ft. 8 in., of 58 years of age, his face was very dark and deeply pitted with smallpox.

Saturday, January 6th, 1900.

Had a slack day- wrote letters for mail. Rest went over to call on the Italian. Mohamed bought 4 new mules. Weather still cold and wet. Got 44 more sheep. Photographed the compound.

Wrote: Mother, Lady Orford

Sunday, January 7th, 1900.

This being the second day of the native Xmas day we were lucky enough to fall in for one of the most interesting and unique functions possible, seeing both a religious ceremony as well as dining with the Emperor. We left the British Agency at 8.15 in dull cold cloudy weather, a heavy rain having only just stopped. Cp. Harrington was in his uniform – leveekit, while Baird favoured the Diplomatic dress.

The four English hunters appeared in the good old garb of European waiters, many articles of apparel being borrowed, a hunter's camp not turning out a large and fine assortment of starched linen! We were well muffled up in weird wraps and old cloaks, for the early morning was decidedly chilly, our headgear being a terai hat - We certainly felt comical, especially as we wended our way over two miles of hill and dale, with several muddy streams and rocks to clamber through. However, we all arrived safely on the large green hillside below the Palace, and from the huge crowd, accompanied by drums and trumpets, we gathered the Emperor was approaching- Pulling up we watched the huge procession slowly wending its way towards а small white tent, which was already surrounded by another large crowd, nearly every man present armed with rifles of all descriptions - Having dismounted we joined in behind the Emperor who proceeded to a chair placed on a French rug facing the tent at 50 yards distance, we all standing in the front row on his left, next to the Chief Justice, who, being somewhat of a portly build, seated himself on the ground; he by the way is answerable for

the saying "that he does not care for law, but that his word is law." The Emperor was clad in white trousers, brown socks with clocks worked on, a very large pair of patent leather shoes, no laces, a long flowing robe of green silk striped with yellow, over which was another overcoat of black satin with a pink silk lining, and embroidered with gold. In his left ear he wore a small rose diamond, the one signifying he had killed an elephant. On his left hand he wore a diamond ring and gold watch. His head was bound tightly round with a piece of white cotton muslin, rolled at the edge, over which he wore a large crowned gold coloured Panama hat with band ornamented with tiny ruby and sapphire looking stones. During the whole ceremony an attendant held over him a red silk umbrella, with fringe of embroidered gold. on the Emperor's immediate right sat the two Archbishops, also with chairs placed on rugs, one dressed in a black burnoose; over him was held a plain silk umbrella, to be changed later for one similar to the Emperor's, but mauve coloured. The older Archbishop was wearing a splendid black velvet robe thickly embroidered with gold, given to him by the late Emperor John. He spent most of the time telling or playing

with the beads of his amber rosary - a red and gold umbrella being held over him. By now we formed a large square, the sides of which were densely packed hundreds thick, a large number being composed of soldiers. The Emperor’s bodyguard gave colour to the scene, all their rifles being carried on the shoulder in bright red cloth bags. Shunes with their attendants, generals, officers of the staff, all rubbed shoulders together in their attempts to get to the front. The left side of the tent was kept entirely for those taking part in the service, numerous priests and neophytes forming a treble row across one side of the square. A group of some 16 priests holding croziers advanced from the tent chanting, most of them wearing gold or silver mitres, wonderfully worked, and clad in a variety of gorgeous vestments. One dress was a yellow brocaded velvet, with large green flowers on it, lined with pink and white silk. Another a purple velvet lined with green, with flowers of gold worked on; while a third was a handsome dark crimson damask with white silk embroidery. The lesser lights chiefly wore burnooses with green, yellow or blue stripes, or cloaks of yellow and green silk. Many carried croziers, the rest swinging copper censors with incense burning. All had richly

chased silver crosses in their hands. Three priests slowly advanced, each carrying on their heads one of the sacred books - Bible - Gospel - and Psalms, the whole being covered with a long blue and green embroidered brocade. The general effect was added to by the various sized and coloured umbrellas held over each high Priest - red, blue, mauve, green and black all being intermingled. A large handsomely bound silver gilt Bible was carried forward, and after a few verses had been read the same was taken round to be kissed by the Archbishop and then the Emperor, after which the Priests retired again to the tent, leaving the rank and file on two sides of the square to commence a chant. At first waving their croziers in time, led by certain men in front, they swung to and fro, then systrums were shaken and the drums also came to the front: these latter included one or two very handsomely cased ones in open worked silver. On the Priests again appearing the choir and musicians spent some 20 minutes singing and dancing, working backwards and forwards in slow time between the Priests and the Emperor. At this juncture the Emperor called up an official, who went across and whispered to one of the leaders, upon which for a few moments the dancing waxed quicker and quicker, till with low

obeisances the ceremony ended - evidently Royalty had had enough- In a few seconds the whole crowd was scattering, the tent had disappeared, the coloured umbrellas closed, and everyone on the move. Having all mounted we proceeded towards the palace gate, keeping just on the Emperor's left hand. It was a most picturesque sight and one never to be forgotten - the Palace surrounded by its stockade standing up on the hilltop, the small church on our right, with the bright green gardens of the Palace in between; on all hands crowds of mounted and dismounted people, with hundreds of horses and mules in gay trappings - altogether some 25,000 people all on the move. As the mass of people began to converge on the entrance to the Palace, we naturally began to get a bit crowded and hustled. The Emperor, seeing this, with great thoughtfulness pulled up his mule and asked us to proceed in front, thereby keeping all the people from troubling us... once inside we found ourselves in a sloping hillside green paddock of about 4 acres, at one side of which we found preparations going on for another service. Carpets were spread and about a dozen chairs placed in a row on which we, together with the Russian officials, took our seats.

The Archbishops were on the other side of the Emperor and spent most of the time carrying on an animated conversation. The service with chanting and dancing seemed to us a repetition of the former one, but only lasted half an hour when the Archbishop pronounced a blessing in Arabic, which was repeated by an underling in Amharic (Abyssinian). The crowd, chiefly of soldiers, began to encroach too near us and the Emperor, whereupon several officials went for them using fists and sticks without mercy, but it did not seem in any way to be resented. Moving off in the same order we threaded our way through narrow lanes, courts and gardens planted with blue gum trees, until we reached the new church just built by the Emperor, not yet quite finished. The building was circular, a verandah running round; inside a high square screen occupied the centre, enclosing the Holy of Holies - an eight foot passage round, covered with rugs supplied the only accommodation for the congregation. The screen itself was a medley of paintings, some evidently brought from abroad while many others were done and in course of being done on the spot by local talent, depicting placid

looking mounted saints, gaily prancing over unfortunate victims; headless trunks spouting blood in all directions. After being shown round by a most courteous official we met the priests carrying in the holy books, which, having deposited and revised their costumes, they held a few minutes service. We in the meantime were conducted through more precincts of the Palace, passing the half completed observatory, till we reached the audience chamber. Here we found several of the European representatives and after a wait of nearly an hour we were ushered into the great hall called "Abderash". Entering at one corner of this huge building we were immediately escorted to a large raised dais on which the Emperor was already seated, surrounded by his courtiers. Passing behind him we took our places at two tables on his left. The centre of this dais was occupied by a spacious throne, surmounted by a handsome canopy 18 feet square. The pillars were gold picked out in red and green, with a similar coloured cornice, from which hung heavy red velvet draperies. An “M” with an Imperial crown in gold was worked on the top.

The Emperor’s seated in front of the throne amid a pile of red plush cushions, was surrounded by his favourite court officials, while in front two rows of attendants administered to his wants from a table covered with a white cloth, on which was a vase of flowers and an enormous pile of the flat native bread. In front of the throne on each side were two small silver candelabras holding eight different coloured very long thin candles. All the dais was curtained off from the body of the hall by a very thin flowery patterned chintz set of curtains. All the Raas and Chief generals sat in two groups on the floor in front but on each side of the throne. Our tables at which were seated 15 guests were laid in European fashion, with massive silver knives and forks, the following menu being well and quickly served by numerous Abyssinian attendants.

Menu

Milk and rice Soup.

Omelette and Herbs.

Fillets of Beef and Radishes.

Fried Brains.

Smoked Beef and Lettuce.

Kabobs of Meat and Potatoes.

Mince and Artichokes.

Kabobs of Mutton and Cabbage.

Fried Mince and Macaroni.

Brown Rolls and Flat Bread - Coffee

Honey Beer, French Claret, Arrack, 12 year old Tej, Epernay Champagne.

While we were being served a continued stream of dishes was being brought for the Emperor's table, many of which, after just touching, he sent to his generals. Whenever the Emperor drank the attendants round screened him from the "Evil Eye" by holding up their loose garments all round him. Among each of generals stood two or three Abyssinians, each holding a huge piece of raw meat from his shoulder, with a bunch of small knives also. As they moved to and fro each person cut off as much as he wanted; the meat is killed only two hours before being served at the banquet. By the side of each man was a small glass decanter of honey beer from which he took copious draughts from time to time, old Tej being handed round in small glasses just at the end. After we had all finished at a signal from the Emperor all the curtains were drawn aside, disclosing to our view a fine lofty hall 170 feet long by 90 feet wide and 35 feet high. The centre part of roof which was of very light timber was supported by two rows of light lattice wood pillars painted white; sixteen on each side, the roof timbers were all picked out in the usual national colours.

Sixteen windows filled with red, blue, orange and green glass lighted the hall. Four large doors gave entrance to a mass of people, until 7000 soldiers filled the whole place. In the front and centre sat all the Chief Priests and Officers, while all round the soldiery were tightly packed, scattered among them being hundreds of round baskets piled up with flat bread, while for ever moving among them were the bearers of the raw meat. The men drank honey beer out of enormous horns fully one foot long, while their officers drank a better brew of honey beer, followed by Arrack. Directly the first detachment had finished their feed they took their departure, so as to make room for another sitting, over 15,000 soldiers being fed in less than two hours During the entertainment an Abyssinian band, which had originally been taught by the Russians to play by ear, performed a selection of music, among which was included the French, Russian, English and Italian national anthems, ending up with the Abyssinian one – all of which we toasted standing in the usual way. After 3 hours we shook hands and bid adieu to the kindest of Royalties, and mounting our steeds reached home about half past three.

The Emperor's goodbye was: "May the Lord keep you well and may you return safely to your own country, and may you have good shooting and pleasant journey through my country."

Monday, January 8th, 1900.

Had a slack day after our debauch at the Palace. Wrote up our diary account. Rained hard during afternoon. I shot, skinned and cured with woodashes a peculiar crow with white tuft on back of head. A native doctor and the head of telephone dined with us.

Tuesday, January 9th, 1900.

An early call this coffee and biscuits at 5.30 saw us all up and mounted on our different steeds, wending our way to the trysting place on the river below the compound, the reason being that the Emperor wanted to see the greyhounds sent him by the Queen have their first course. The meet was fixed for 8 a.m. before which captain Harrington and Mr. Baird had already arrived as the Emperor, being a very early riser, is generally punctual. Captain Harrington rode his grey horse Fitaurari (meaning commander of the vanguard), a present to him from Ras Makunnen, while Mr. Baird first rode a chestnut horse sent out by the Queen as a present to the Emperor, afterwards changing to a charming grey horse called Ambalai (white horse), a present to Capt. Harrington from the King. It was only just daylight when the Emperor arrived with a large following,

mounted on a fine brown mule with a purple saddle cloth and broad reined green coloured bridle. The large field, all of whom were there at the Emperor's invitation, included Ras Wolda Gorghis, Dejasmatch (General) Abatu, Dejasmatch Webbe, Dejasmatch Beratu, a nephew of Ras Makunnen, all the court officials and staff officers, besides numerous Shunes with their armed retainers - (most of these had a spare led horse). No wonder the Field swelled to a huge crowd of over 500 people. After riding along for a mile towards the foot of the mountains, Captain Harrington arranged with the Emperor that a body of some 50 horsemen should be detached out on the right and left flanks in extended line to act as beaters, while he with his immediate friends and retainers moved alone in the centre, all the rest being kept 400 yards behind. The Emperor now changed his mount for a good looking brown gelding of 14 hands, the usual height of horses in this country. His riding costume consisted of a black satin cloak with hood and tassel attached, lined with pink, underneath this wearing a long coat of green silk striped with yellow, white cotton trousers, with bright green silk socks, brown canvas sand shoes, and a wide brimmed

felt hat completed his costume. All he carried in his hand was a very light well polished spear with a cedar shaft, while closes behind him a mounted attendant carried his shield in a large brown silk bag, and a single barrel 303 Martini Metford carbine. After drawing some half mile of grass country, much broken up with deep water channels and rocks, a hare was started on the right, getting well away before the greyhounds could be slipped. Running in a wide circle the hare was twice headed by over keen sportsmen, but was finally brought to book in grand style by the black dog Zuler, who during the course, owing to the deep cracks in the ground, took one or two complete somersaults, which by the way was also indulged in by many of the riders. The quarry having been brought up by Mr. Baird was duly examined by the Emperor, who was much pleased at the greyhounds' performance, saying "It was the first hare he had ever seen killed by a dog in his country." Meanwhile a nondescript dog, belonging to his Majesty, and a dog called the Gudda, had a great hunt by themselves after a second hare, which needless to say outpaced them. The gudda is a celebrated animal, having accompanied Cp. Wellby to the Nile.

The line now moved on when a jackal was found on which two fresh greyhounds were slipped, but after a good run the animal unfortunately went to ground. After this a turn was made for home, the whole company forming in a long column of troops, while many of the officers gave an exhibition of their national game of "Gucks" which consists of one horseman pursuing another, at the same time trying to hit him by throwing a light spear, which the pursued man had to avoid. When the English compound was reached the Emperor, accompanied by a few of his principal chiefs, entered and having dismounted proceeded to the drawing room tent, beside which the English and Abyssinian flags were flying, where coffee, champagne and biscuits were dispersed. The King, after inspecting the horses and stables, then took leave of his host saying he looked forward to coming out again very shortly for another hunt. Started our 24 baggage mules.

Letters: Mother.

Wednesday, January 10th, 1900.

Accompanied by Baird we bid adieu to our kind host at 8 o’clock, lunching at 1 o'clock at Rogee. Starting at 2.30 we slept at Jeffadunsa 5.30, having done 27 miles.

8 Hours. 27 miles.

Thursday, January 11th, 1900.

Left at 7.30 after a bitterly cold night, doing a good long march to a camp at Godsbourka below Balgi Hill at 3 o'clock - 25 miles.

7 ½ Hours. 25 Miles.

Friday, January 12th, 1900.

Started away at 7.15 reaching a camping ground, Manibella, 11. 15 after 4 hours. Water was 5 miles to fetch. Left Mohamed at Balgi to present the Shune with the King's letter. 14 miles.

4 Hours. 14 Miles.

Saturday, January 13th, 1900.

Turned in under Baird's fly for 5 hours. Leaving by moonlight at 12.40 we reached, after five hours, Choba. Laid down on our blankets while breakfast was got ready, a work of time owing to little and damp wood - 17 miles. Started again at 11.3a.m. and reached camp about 4 o'clock or 5 hours for mules. Good going - 17 miles - Found all well in camp.

5 Hours - 17 Miles - 5 Hours - 17 Miles.

Sunday, January 14th, 1900.

Up at 5.50 and had a long day repacking loads, boiling heads. A correspondent called Vivian came along from Harrer and dined with us.

Monday, January 15th, 1900.

Up again at daylight, packing photos and all our trophies. Baird hunted but no luck. Took the Shune's photo.

Tuesday, January 16th, 1900.

Baird went out all day but was unlucky in missing shots at oryх. Got most of the skins packed. Took a series of camp photos- Drank Mr. Coventry's health out of egg cups.

Wednesday, January 17th, 1900.

Up early. Baird shot 2 oryx and 1 pig. Finished packing all heads. Wrote chits for boys paid off - letters to Dinshaw, Harold and Harrer. Bought 3 new camel and sent them off with 3 others under Jama Said to Zeila with all our goods and trophies, also 12 mule loads. Took photos of camp.

Photo negatives to the amateur Photo. Co., 16, Brook Street, Bond Street, W

Sent home 36 - 5 x 4 plates.

62 - " " films.

90 - Binocular.

117 - Half plate.

305

Wrote to: Mother.

Miss Elkington.

Mrs. Cawston.

Mrs. Leith.

Egan.

Burton & Keys.

1 warthog

1 Aul

2 Oryx

5 Miles. 3 to 6.

Thursday, January 18th, 1900.

Up in good time. Guide did not turn up till late, so others went out shooting. Bill got an auob. P. C. left us for Adie. The Shune also came to bid us farewell and receive his present. Jama returned for 2 fresh camel, the 3 old ones being no good. During the morning poor Dimbill went mad, roaming round the camp clad in anybody's garments he could procure. We had to send him back to Zeila under care of Gurot, our first cook, who was a relation. Finally about s we got a start from our longest camp. We all rode ahead to visit a wonderful old stone ruin of a large town called Hallam,

built by Zaracob the Emperor who was defeated by Granya. It is a wonderful place on top of a high hill, about a mile long and half broad; the walls about 3 feet thick of loose piled stones, now only about 2 to 3 feet left. One can still trace distinctly all the houses with the streets winding about - date supposed to be about 900. Owing to paying some men off we rather interfered with our boys' religious arrangements, having paid off our head skinning man who unfortunately was their head Priest. I afterwards saw my tent boy taking on the job, but he only drew one attendant and he only stayed a short time, when seeing another boy eating his rice he quit service in a hurry. Our boys have all been keeping "Ramadam" a sort of Lenten fast which lasts for one moon, when they neither eat nor drink during daylight - they make up for it later in the evening. After visiting the ruins we made across country to our camels. We came across most awful ravines, hills and absolute chasms; it was nearly 7.30 when the last got into camp, having only got over about one mile in some two hours. Our guide missed us and so we unfortunately took a wrong road which we had to retrace for an hour next morning.

Friday, January 19th, 1900.

Up at 3 and away at 4.30. Took an awful climb to get back into our right road, so really our new march only started about 7; had a long one, reaching a freshwater lake at one. We had good sport en route, getting 3 auob, besides having a splendid chase with the Gudda dog who ran after some auob half a mile, when being blown they halted and for the first time saw the "enormous" sized animal pursuing them. Upon this they started and simply ran that poor dog out of the place, coming right back within a hundred yards of a caravan. When Bill shot the for foremost one this so scared the Gudda that he made a clean bolt faster than ever and has never returned. Salt lake Mathara camp.

15 Miles. 7 - 1.

Saturday, January 20th, 1900.

Up at 2.45, away at 4.15. Camped on Hawash river again at 11. 15. I shot an auob and Ghee made a good running shot killing our first Swaynes hartbeest. Riverside full of poison tree. I shot a corpse reviver. Had a ripping warm bath. Sat up late writing copy of Menelik's dinner to send home. Camp called Deenheo.

15 Miles. 4.15 - 11-15.

Sunday, January 21st, 1900.

Guide said thick bush so up at 3.45, left at 5.30; marched till 9.45 - good road. I photographed group of galla. Syces struck for more wage - told them to go home; they are still with us!! - Ghee shot 2 auob and Bill got 2 Mambwa snakes 8 ft. 9 ins. long. Camp called Alaga.

10 Miles. 5.30 – 9.45

Monday, January 22nd, 1900.

Up at 2.45, away at 4.15; good road most of the way. Shot one of our camel on the way being old, sick and sore back. I shot a female bush-buck- Busy all afternoon writing letters, making new lists and repacking store cases. Camp called Oresa.

12 Miles. 4.15 – 9.45

Tuesday, January 23rd, 1900.

Found cultivation for first time — cotton, peas, maize and barley being grown. Passed numerous scattered villages and hundreds of people came from all parts to see the strange white men. Up at 2.30, left camp at 4 but a deep bad nullah tumbled down on camel making it 4.30 till 9.30. We were joined by guides and Shunes all along the route, Menelik having notified them of our arrival. I shot an oribi on march. Ghee shot 2 hippo and Bill 1. Busy landing them and cutting out teeth. Bad camel feed; lots of poison shrub. Camp called Malkarara

11 Miles- 4.30 - 9.30.

Wednesday, January 24th, 1900.

Owing to our guides not turning up we could not start till later. Got up at 3.30 and left at 5.15, had a very rough mountain to climb, but got safely over it. Met an Abyssinian gentleman who wanted to sell us his wife! Did 5 ¼ hours, camping on a small stream at 10.30. Ghee and Baird stayed behind to wait for a dead hippo which they cut the teeth out of . After lunch we all went out hunting but the place was a fraud. Had a deal of doctoring to do – eyes, broken limbs and other infirmities quite beyond our scope. However, we gave each a mixture if only to soothe his spirit!! Camp called Wagia.

14 miles. 5-15 - 10. 30.

Thursday, January 25th, 1900.

Left camp at 5. Crossed the Hawash by moonlight. Bad place – had to make bit of new road for camel. Did a good march, 5 - 11.30. Several men bad with fever. Gave up my pony to one. Met a charming Galla chief with a really pretty daughter, who gave us milk and looked through my camera. The father afterwards guided us to water where we gave him dollars and special present of beads for the ladies! Clarke and Baird went out surveying when the latter shot a klipspringer. Camp called Wangie.

15 Miles - 5 – 11-30

Friday, January 26th, 1900.

Left at 5; camped at 9.30 on a flat grassy plain covered with cattle above a big lake, on which every sort of water-fowl was teeming. I went down and shot some pretty huge geese. A Party of Galla galloped past after a clarke’s gazelle which they killed further on. Post and Baird's mules arrived with welcome letters and papers from home. Several boys still down with fever. Camp called Gogo and Buffulalu.

9 Miles. 5 - 9.30.

Letters: Ritchie, Mother (2), G. B. Jun., Huzzard and Kate.

Wrote: George Banks, Bagby, G. Huzzard.

Saturday, January 27th, 1900.

Arranged to send Mohamed up to Adis to interview Harrington, so decided to make a little trip up to Zuguala to see if any game and climb the mountain. Left camp at 7.30 and camped at 1. 15. Brought 9 camels along and left others in charge of Jama. Abdi, our cook, had fever badly; fell out on road and only got in at dusk. Having some new large geese and other birds to skin, I stayed in camp; others went out and had shots at oribi. Camp called Chenny. Did 15 miles.

Sunday, January 28th, 1900.

Got up at 4.30. Our guide being late we only started on our trip to climb Zuguala. We had about a miles on the flat, during which we shot 5 oribi. Leaving our mules at the bottom we did hours of hard climbing. At 9,000 feet we had lunch, Bill and I going

no further; the others with Clarke went on up the heights placing the altitude at 10,000 feet above sea level. A most curious formation is the top, having been an old crater; the bottom being now filled up forms a lake ¾ by ½ a mile round. The water rises up the edge of the old crater to the height of some 600 feet. Round the lake dwells a priest and several hermits, also several villages ensconced in crevices on the eastern slope. The place boasts of 3 churches, one in ruins. It is a holy hill and full of quaint superstition. The hermits for instance go daily to pray at a curious chasm in the rocks, the legend being in days gone by, a hermit went up the hill and met the devil whom, after a severe struggle, he conquered. Founding a chapel he settled down there. People come from far and wide to bathe in the lake, expecting a cure from any disease. We had a fine view of 70 or 80 miles all round. A lot of the country is under cultivation - peas, barley, maize, cabbages, pepper – the whole district being owned by Fitaurari Apta Mariam. The women do a lot of the work, weaving a great deal of the cheap calico worn by the natives. They are to be seen threshing the corn also with flails, and of course carry all the water on their backs for miles.

Justice for minor offences is administered by the owner of the country, but murder being the only case of life or death is only in the hands of Menelik.

Monday, January 29th, 1900.

Left camp about 6 o'clock and hunted towards the mountain. I followed water-buck but bush too thick. Ghee killed a Clarke's gazelle and oribi - Baird same in afternoon.

Tuesday, January 30th, 1900.

All went out hunting at 6 o'clock. I shot two oribi and saw water-buck cows. Bill shot 5 oribi, Ghee 1 oribi. Mahomed returned at midday and we packed camp and left at 4 o'clock. Did two hours back towards our main camp.

Wednesday, January 31st, 1900.

Up at 5 and started away at 6.40. Came back in 4 hours. Had several boys very sick, which prevented our moving in afternoon. Baird left us for Adis taking up our last letters. Busy repacking boxes, then went down to the lake Gogo, which quite swarmed with every sort of wild-fowl. Our Cook, Abdi, and young Mahomed both very bad in fever. Altogether had 12 men laid up