Diary Page

January 1908

Wednesday, January 1st 1908

Got a start with forty porters at 3.30 p.m., carried the women alternately in machela. We marched 1¾ hours and then camped on main road - rather cold at night, plenty of mosquitoes - camp called Kisube.

1¾ hours         5 miles.

Thursday, January 2nd 1908

Alarum did not work so got a late start, left at 6.30 and marched till 11.30 with two little rests. Mafutiminga gave out - got sunstroke. Camped at Gandera. Got a sheep, bananas and lots of potatoes. Ild Chief brought us in 46 packets of food just before turning in - bought them for porters on their promise to do a good march next day.

3 ½ Hours 10 miles

Friday, January 3rd 1908

We were up at 4.20 and away at 5 a.m., just before daylight; had a cool three hours and then hot sun - road very hilly. Did three hours to Umballa and after short rest did another three hours stretch to camp - Quatamballa; women going well, but Bokani and Mongongu going very lame.

5¾ Hours - 16 Miles.

Saturday, January 4th 1908

Left at 5 a.m., did 2¾ hours to Basugo, then 1¾ on to Basugo, then 1 ¾ on to Versuversi; on again 1 ¼ hours to Basirnbe, where we arrived at 12 a.m. at the new rest house where new road branches off to Toro. Letter caught us at this camp saying no donkeys to be had. We made up a second machela so as to carry on two of the party - makes it hard work having to do so much walking.

Brought over. 11hours 31 miles

5¾ hours 16 ½ miles.

 Sent letters to National Bank and Mr. Aspinall.

Sunday, January 5th 1908

Up early and got a good trek in dark; away at 4.20 reaching Jongula at 7.30, short rest and marched on at 7.55 reaching Bimbi at 10.55; had five extra porters which I hired to carry second machela to Toro. We travelled two hours on new road - nice and level going; lost sight of the big Lake.

6 hours 20 miles.

Monday, January 6th 1908

Up earlier still and started off at 4 o'clock reaching Gwankidi 7.15, then 1¾ hours to Kegemerau, finishing at 9.40; found a Belgian officer on his way out. Found a fresh fruit - wild - called Katunda. Hear Mons. Angh is Chef de Poste at Irumu.

5 hours 17 miles.

Tuesday, January 7th 1908

Keep getting porters up earlier; called at 3; got away at 3.40; nice cool march to Imadudo 7.15; had a good long hour's rest here - porters straggling a good bit. Gathered a lot of nice tomatoes; heard first wild pig en route. Away again over very rough hilly country at 8.15 and reached Kisiba at 10.35. Camped on a hot hill under big tree; rest places too awful to go near. Passed some splendid patches of cotton growing, also saw the Governor's country residence on a big hill a long way off. Passed out of Uganda into Unyoro district.

Brought over 27¾ hours 84½ miles

6 hours 28 miles.

Wednesday, January 8th 1908

Up at 2.45 and away at 3.45, very dark and bad hilly road; passed Kabuba at 3 hours' trek, and got to Randecusa at 10.45 having one hour's rest. Very hot and porters late coming in; awful place for camp - little water and few villages near; not a bit of shade; worst place yet for mosquitoes.

5 ½ hours 16 ½ miles.

Thursday, January 9th 1908

Left camp at 3.30 and one hour later struck the new road which we hope to follow into Toro; much better and more level going, also found a decent resting place. Got into camp at Kichumu nice and early; only rested three quarters of an hour, marching 5 hours - country very thinly populated - water being scarce.

Brought over 39¼ hours 119miles

5 hours 16 miles.

Friday, January 10th 1908

Away again at 3.30 and with a short rest did 6 hours, covering 17 miles. Camped at Kowrumbi, passed on way several parties of ladies making bridges and roadway, also saw our first fresh lion spoor - great excitement among the boys. Sent a runner into Toro and Irumu from here.

6 hours 17 miles.

Saturday, January 11th 1908

Left camp at 3.30, rested after 4 hours for half hour and on again a long tramp to Kahoura doing 21 miles in 6 hours 50 minutes. Should see Ruenzui but too thick owing to forest fire. Nice rolling country and better grass but very few inhabitants.

6 hours 50 minutes 21 miles.

Sunday, January 12th 1908

Away at 3.45 - splendid road, and only had a short trek of 4 ½ hours doing 12 miles. Camped for midday at Batiti on the hill top; good rest house - can see Ruezfori but indistinctly. Had a call from German missionary, who frightened us as to distance from Toro. Got a few spare porters and left at 5,30, treked until 9.30, camping at Met here two Australians bound to the Congo to prospect.

Monday, January 13th 1908

Up at three and away at 4.30, did till 6.30 about 6miles and landed up at Toro Borma; found the Collector away at the Lake; called on the Mission folk - Rev. &.L. Blackledge and Dr. Bond; bought a nice donkey from him.

2 hours 6 hours

Total time to date 66 ½ hours.

Total mileage to date 203 miles.

Tuesday, January 14th 1908

Busy early getting porters food and all settled for a start; went up to pay a state call on the King of Toro - Dandi Kusagana. We were received in the large Council Hall, a handsome building with a ceiling and supports worked in small bamboo cane.

The King was sitting on his raised dais in his open gilded chair presented to him by the B.Government. He was clad in a dark red cloth robe embroidered with gold, a white open-worked shirt and a small white embroidered cap. He struck me as by far the most intellectual native I had ever seen; quite a young man and spoke a little English; was saving up his rupees (got 3,000,wanted 6,000) to pay a visit to England. He was surrounded by his court and Prime Minister, together with all his head chiefs; quite an imposing array. After our reception we adjourned outside when I took several groups. He has been most kind, having sent a Chief along and orders ahead to have plenty of food for my porters, as this is very scarce owing to famine.

It was about 4 o'clock when we got away, having paid off 16 porters and taken on a fresh twenty-five. Luckily we have 26 excellent ones of our own, and I have also kept our second headman. We met several kind friends; Dr. Jan Crekomwesgki who is waiting for the Duke of Mechlenberg,

also two Australians. Mr. Cunningham and Mr. Berrie and a curious amusing character a Mr. Dan Rockie, a trader at Imbogo, all been most kind to us. Poor Melipi had a nasty fall off the new donkey and with Matuka have started with fever. We only treked a short 2 hours and camped on the top of hill at Busaiga. Had a bitterly cold stormy night with a little rain and lots of thunder round. Found 50 loads of banana waiting for us.

Photo of King and Group.

                                    Mukwanda                             Kaima

                        Kasuju                         King                            Katikiri

Sekibolo                                                                                              Kimbrywe

Left Toro.                    2 hours - 5 miles.

Wednesday, January 15th 1908

Started at daylight as we had to go down the steep hill 4,600 ft. drop into the plains. The hills were very pretty and looked like Scotland. Leaving at 6 o'clock we did 3 ¾ hours, about 13 miles. Rather funny on route I met Major Macgregor returning from the boundary commission, he having come down from Gondokoro with us when I brought out the pygmies. We crossed the Vasso river - pretty spot, lots of elephant. Reached camp at Mondeva about ten and found Mr. Rockie waiting for us. More banana came in for porters.

3 ¾ hours - 13 miles.

Thursday, January 16th 1908

Overslept myself so only got away at 6 o'clock; luckily found only 2 ¼ hours to the Semilder river which took us one hour to cross over, all our loads in a shaky old dugout. We had to swim our donkey over. Saw lots of gazelle and antelope on the flat plain. Took one hour getting over the hill down into the plain. They say plenty of lion in the hill. Invalids both better. Mafuti took a toss. Had a meal after crossing river and left again about 3.30 as it was fairly cloudy. We crossed the rest of the plains, and climbing the hills crossed the river Enderra at dark after & good 5 hours' trek. Slept at Kilyano - a horrible dirty collection of native huts; rained during night which caused us a stampede.

Carried over 5¾ 18 miles

2 ¼ hours  8 miles

3 hours  10 miles

Friday, January 17th 1908

Up at four and found we had a longer and harder job ahead than we expected. About an hour out had a heavy shower, just as I reached the river Rue Wakee - full of reeds - suddenly found fresh elephant spoor and then heard them quite close. Fearing they might stampede and cause

trouble with safari I mounted a small hill which overlooked the river bed and started yelling loudly well backed up by my only follower the cook boy. Soon got them on the move and shortly on the far side 3 elephant emerged; ivory only poor. They went off at a quick walk. Further on I ran into a whole colony of baboons who were evidently not used to being disturbed and were hard to shift. However, by aid of my white umbrella I got them on the trot a few yards at a time - wished I had a rifle along. Passed a most lovely canyon, looked like a huge deep volcanic rift, but now well clothed with green grass and trees in all its crevices. After two hours hard climbing up and down I struck Lt. Willaert's camp and he was busy working on the boundary commissions. We did the other three hours together and camped at Bilyamo - on a hill top in Congo territory. Shortly after our arrival Chef de Posto of Irumu came into camp and lunched, also dined. Our second donkey also arrived from Imbogo. Chef's name is Mons. Thiebernams and Com. Henck Chef de Zone. Mong. Berstein is at Imbogo on the Commission. Mr. Rockie came in at dinner time, also the Italian sent us another donkey.

Carried over 11 hours 36 miles

5 hours 13 miles.

Saturday, January 18th 1908

Got up at four, but rain prevented us moving till 7 o'clock; did three hours down into the valley below Chunga then stayed off for lunch; had some pretty stiff climbing and then dropped euddenly some 3,000 ft. - much warmer down below. Rather funny one of the first villagers to greet us was a man I had photographed in the forest 3 years ago - we are only an hour from it now. These people are all much better adorned and look better than our friends over the border; they carry spears and the women are loaded with rings and beads. They are quite the pygmy type but rather bigger. After a short halt we pushed on again for another 3 hours, entered the first bit of forest on this trek, passing one or two Mackenzie villages. Three new porters dumped; Malipi on the road and left. Slept on hill top at                 .

Carried over 16 hours 49 miles

3 hours - 7 ½ miles.

3 hours - 7 ½ miles.

Sunday, January 19th 1908

Up at 3.30 and a nice level road of 3 hours brought Irumu in sight. I expected to be in at nine and arrived a few minutes before. Had a charming house given and found Mr. Bernstein most kind. Lived at the Mess; paid off our Toro boys.

3 ¼ hours 10 miles

Total time to date 25 ¼ hours.

Total mileage to date 74 miles.

Monday, January 20th 1908

Could not get any porters in so wrote letters for mail and sorted loads out. Lt. Ed. Boyton came in from country.

Lieut. Ed. Boyton, Storvik, Sweden.

Letter to:

Toro Collector,

Mary,

Gillett,

Cathcart,

Lady Orford,

Roke,

Major Liekrehts.

Alexis Bernstein, Aj. d'Administration, 42, Avenue de le Reine, Boulogne e/Seine, (pres Paris)

P. L. Cambran,  Mission St. Justave, Bern.

Tuesday, 21st January, 1908.

Bought two goat and some more cloth from native chief. Chief Barake came in at lunch time. Got our 20 porters in at 3 o'clock and started away after tea. Had an hours delay getting across the Irumu, donkeys as usual being a bother to get over in peroke. An hour later we had to recross it, and worse than ever, as we only had one of those wonderful creeper suspension bridges. Took ages to even get the baggage over; finally we had to leave a guard behind with the donkeys, getting too dark. Camped at Barake's and found him most kind - lots of wood, food, eggs and all we wanted. Met there several of the kid's friends, as the news of their

return with their great wealth had spread far and wide. Poor Malipi fell into a boggy stream and got her fine red dress all dirty - such a long face, felt quite sorry for her. Treked about 2 hours.

Wednesday, January 22nd, 1908.

Up at daylight and went off to look for elephant - said to be plenty of good tuskers. Had 3 hours during which I fell into an elephant pit!! Just as we returned about 11 o'clock news came in of 4 elephant having gone into a patch of timber so we again set out on another two or three hours' search, but no use, country quite impossible to do anything in. Heard Bokani's wife was to come in to-day but it appears she saw us on road and got frightened, so went back. His big chief is dead, but all their pals seem to be alive and in great excitement at their return; our old Chief doing us splendidly!

12 miles.

Thursday, 23rd January, 1908.

Up at four and started away at 5.30; had fairly good going and three hours brought us into Bokani's place in the forest. Track was very bad for our porters. Great excitement when Bokani met his brother, who had been acting Chief, thinking he was dead. To complicate matters he had married the old man's wife. When they met they embraced just

like foreigners, but quite silently. Further on we met his wife and they at once sat down arm in arm. Matuti also had his arm round another fair damsel. We are to-day camped in Bokani's village, a miserable specimen of the usual pygmy kind - about four leaf shelters and four others uncovered; they have roofed in one more to-day for the new arrivals. So far prospects of any sport seem poor. However, one must give them a few hours to shake down. I sent back our Irumu porters as we propose staying round here for ten days. Mongu does not seem to relish the surroundings at all and sits aloof; ladies still clad in their red dresses - rather a contrast to the village belles.

3 hours 9 miles

Friday, 24th January, 1908.

About 6 o'clock villager came in saying one elephant with good ivory was eating his potato patch. We dressed at once and started out without breakfast. Getting on his spoor we had a very short hunt through about a mile of nasty tall elephant grass and then he went into a donga with water holes. Our native

guide was very afraid and kept trying to go behind. Soon as we heard the rumbling I took up the trail myself, Osborne following. Step by step we drew near, there was no hurry as he was evidently in a favourite puddle for his day's siesta! At last I got sight of his body above the Jungle but his head was quite obscured by a thick bush. As we were now only 9 or 10 yards off one could get no nearer, so had to wait for developments. The animal raised his head once when I just caught sight of good tusks. Waiting for about twenty minutes the beast at last got our wind and made a plunge out of the puddle, Just gave me a second for a snap but very risky shot, as I had entirely to guess where to aim. Luck favoured me and he dropped stone dead with his hind quarters still in the puddle. Having no weighing machine with us we guess the tusks at about 140 lbs. the pair. Returning to camp for breakfast we again sallied forth with axe, cameras and a large following. Being out of the forest we were joined by scores of natives with

their whole families. The family were out visiting, but to our surprise we found them all down at the corpse when we returned, so soon news travels. After several photos we started chopping out the tusks - this occupied us till night. The usual sight of 200 natives yelling and screaming with all sorts of cutting weapons took place, and all our family took an active part in the struggle for meat. Kuachi perched on top of the corpse while Matuha tried to boss the crowd. They looked very quaint in their smart red dresses. Gradually the boys discarded their clothes, and when Bokani fell into the puddle he at last discarded his trousers. The ladies waited till we had gone and then took off all their clothes which Matuha carried up while they carried up about 40 lbs. of meat each - such is African life. When they came into camp we chaffed them, and they at once put a towel on when coming near us. Been a long tiring day - about four hours walking.

1 Elephant.

12 miles.

Saturday, 25th January, 1908.

Had a very unlucky day. About 9.30 boys came in saying three big tuskers had been eating their potatoes and gone into thick bush but a long way off. We set out and after two hours hard walking struck the place. Just before we saw a buffalo but out of shot and going at a gallop having been scared by some natives. After a short search in the dense jungle we found the elephant spoor and soon heard them feeding. As the tracking was hopeless I left all boys behind, and then Osborne with my second rifle, the dead leaves and thick stuff being hopeless for two to stalk; step by step I crept up, moving only when they did. At last getting within 10 yards of one I had a fine sight of the head and to my disgust found it only a small cow. She was then very suspicious and suddenly turned straight up to me, threw up her head and trunk with her mouth wide open. I made certain she was coming but instead she suddenly backed away. On my guard now I again followed up and very soon

came up to the beasts again; this time they were all on guard and I could only place two. while edging about trying to get a sight of No. 2 and 3 I suddenly found myself between two of them not 12 yards from either. Seeing both were cows I had not even time to clear before one in front came on. As the only cover was occupied by No. 2 I had no place or chance to escape so I had to fire and as usual my Rigby did its work effectually. Seeing it fall I jumped towards it and so missed the clutches of my friend behind. Naturally one felt very badly about it, but what is one to do in such cases. I called up the men who told the lie and Osborne talked to them pretty straight. They owned then "they had not seen their tusks as they had their heads down". It was 6.30 before we got back into camp.

1 Elephant.

12 miles.

Sunday, January 26th, 1908.

Went out early to try for buffalo. Difficult ground to spoor in; finally we came on fresh elephant spoor and came up with the beast in thick elephant grass.

We waited a long time in hopes of it making a favourable move, but getting tired I left everyone behind and started in. As I got nearer I had to take to crawling, and as the wind kept changing I was obliged to keep lying flat down. At last I got within about 12 yards, but so thick I could not get a glimpse of it. I waited patiently listening to it feeding and playing about. When I was just thinking of trying to move a few yards the beast suddenly started and moved off. I could not make it out, until later I found one of my idiotic boys had gone to get up a tree to see what was going on, and so we had to return to camp without even a sight of game. Busy all afternoon repacking loads as we intend leaving a lot of baggage behind when moving into the depths of the forest.

Monday, 27th January, 1908.

Meant to go buffalo hunting but found no chikoola in so stayed in camp and wrote letters, also

photographed the Bohain group and camp. By dinner time we had collected six porters and about four days' rations for our 32 porters. Sent all the baggage up to the kraal in charge of headman and three porters with orders to keep us supplied twice a week with food for our men. We were awfully heavy laden and only did 14 hours. We brought along the whole pygmy village and are off to visit Mafuti's friends, where they say the okapi lives. To-day before leaving camp Kuachi and Melipi said they were going to take all their clothes off and carry food and elephant meat. Sure enough they have both taken to native costume plus the turkey red strip; they do look quaint with clean shaven heads. We have been entirely in the forest shade all day - rather nice as we can travel any hour of the day. Sleeping tonight out in the open just under our mosquito nets. Thunder has been growling round all the afternoon. Sent a runner in to Irumu with letters. Some fine timber of the false cotton tree - rest all scrub.

Wrote:

Miss Litchfield,

Lt. Boynton,

D. Rokie.

 1 ¾ hours 5 miles.

Tuesday, 28th January, 1908.

About midnight we fell in for a heavy thunderstorm with rain till daylight. As we were sleeping out in the open it caused a hurried rush to get loads covered and also sheets over our cots. It's a strange country where one washes clothes and wears them as the best and quickest way of drying them. We got away about 8 o'clock and after one hour only halted, when we found our best porter Aloke missing with the food box. We went back and spent all day searching; sent six men along a pathway we had left, but never a trace of the man. As I had blazed the trees carefully it was gross negligence for him to get lost. It's awkward as every plate, cup, knife, is in his box. We have had to feed off the pygmies old tin plates and two cups and use big hunting knives and our fingers. We waited till 4 o'clock when all the men returned and so we moved on again for one hour. As we are short of food it's impossible to hang about on the road even if likely to do good.

2 hours 6 miles.

Wednesday, 29th January, 1908.

To-day opened well as while we were breakfasting by aid of a big hunting knife suddenly a yell and a rush by all our boys from their fires announced the arrival of our lost Aloki with our precious food box. I don't know when anything gave more pleasure as we were in a real old fix. We treked on for 2 hours crossing a small river and here our pigmy friends refused to travel further, wanting to sleep about every hour; fact is, they had lied about the okapi and hoped our food would give out by dallying on the road so we parted company, Mongongu sticking to us and the rest going up the river. I think the old lady was sorry to go but Matula has assumed absolute control over her. I am very glad they have gone as I felt sure they were not speaking the truth and we might easily have wasted several more precious days. We at once retraced our steps and slept at old camp and should reach our main camp in the morning.

6 hours 12 miles

Thursday, 30th January, 1908.

Up at 4 o'clock and started directly we could see the trail. Kept going over the river and on till we struck our first camp on the Nepoko main trail. Before reaching it I met two natives bringing in a parcel of sugar and letters - both very acceptable. Soon after leaving our first halt I heard tremendous shouting and was at a loss as to what it could mean. Directly after our old friend Bareki came in sight with three men and one old rifle, the bearer of a good convoy. It appeared when our six porters had deserted they passed through this village but dared not stay; they said the little folk had gone away up the river and they had thrown the food away. Hearing this and fearing we might be in a fix Bareki hastily collected food and a little army of carriers - men, woman and children. It was very nice of the men and very plucky to start in. One might have thought we had been in the jaws of death by the reception we got all along the route. Evidently they don't think we are old campaigners.

Wrote:

Lt. Boyton.

D. Roke.

Letters from: 4 hours 11 miles

D.J. Wilson,

D. Roke,

Lt. Boyton,

G.E.A. Co.

Friday, 31st January, 1908.

Out at daylight and had bad luck. Came upon 4 or 5 buffalo feeding in a glade among a mile of burnt and standing elephant grass. I fired one band standing at about 60 yards and a second running, then had 2 barrels with my Gibbs at a longer range, both my first hit as plenty of blood on spoor. I fear the thick straggling stalks of elephant grass must have deflected bullet. We spent a long time in that dangerous game of following wounded buffalo in dense bush, but at last had to give it up. Later on we tried to drive a solitary buffalo, but no go - boys frightened. Had a long day sorting out boxes and remaking loads as I intend sending some direct to Toro. Chief's name is Baruku and his tribe Baudikarera. They gave us an elephant dance at night.

7 miles.