Diary Page

March 1900

Thursday, March 1st, 1900.

Another showery morning, bad for our poor camel. After breakfast we had a game of rounders, being camped on a lovely green grass hill, scenery like an English park. I photographed the men at rounders, also Jama, Ali, and Duala in their best clothes. After lunch our friend Doris appeared and paid us a long visit, also the Galla Chief who brought us sheep and other presents. After champagne and tea I photographed the group and we gave him a sword, revolver and bottle of Kunnell; to the Galla Chief, now deposed, we gave a blanket, razor and scissors. Besides a gift of 2 camel, all the Chief has and a present from Menelik, Doris promises to carry all our loads on to the next Fiterarauri and let our camel go empty.

I wrote a letter to Harrington from here for Doris. We had several people applying for cures - the Chief himself for indigestion.

Camp called Gogo

Friday, March 2nd, 1900.

Had some heavy rain again during the night. Got up at 8. Ghee not feeling well- We put mats on camel and donkeys and started them away empty. About 9.30 Fit. Doris arrived with numerous attendants and we all sat round

and watched the carriers being brought in from the villages round. Abyssinian soldiers had been sent to scour the country bringing in some 400 Galla men, women and children. It took about two hours to get all our loads away. We then started out. Doris mounting Bill and I on fine mules, which he wished us to take to England. About a mile on he took his leave, sending on his best soldier as permanent guide and some thirty more as a guard of honour, besides his favourite mule and sword bearer. He very pleased with the two rockets and blue light we sent up in his honour the night before. The two fine camel given by Menelik he presented to us - a useful gift!

We did two hours through very pretty scenery, crossing our highest point 10,000 ft. To our surprise we found bamboo, brambles, daisies, tiger lilies and trees covered with ferns, in fact the prettiest bit we have met with. About two miles out we found a huge crowd awaiting us – all drawn up in two lines. Dismounting (a rather difficult feat, with stirrups 2 ½ inches wide and high pummels behind and before!! ) we shook hands with the head man of Fiterarauri Jemeni

and were then escorted to our camping ground close to a large and imposing village called Tincha, many of the dwellings being stockaded round. A gruesome sight is in front of us on the opposite hill close by the market place, a square gallows 18 ft high, 10 ft. wide, on which were hanging four Galla men who had committed murder !

In the afternoon Basha Islamam came to talk and bring presents which really make one sad to see, knowing that they are coming from the natives and that half will be wasted. However, one has to conform to the customs of the country. I took photographs of one crowd of presents also of the village and the crowd watching our arrival. The presents here consisted of: -

2 cows, 9 sheep 97 baskets of bread, 155 wine (which we returned) 8 ghee, 7 honey, 13 chickens, 31 eggs, 182 wood, 220 grass, 1 grain, 4 curry pepper. –

a total of 726 people carrying presents.

We have a good view of Lake Chama in the hollow.

Camp called Dincha : 10,000 altitude.

6 miles. 11 - 3.

Saturday, March 3rd, 1900.

I got up at 7.30 and went up the market place hill to photo - a gallows on which 4 corpes of Galla were hanging for murdering an Abyssinian.

Ghee, unluckily, was still very seedy: kept his tent up till 11 when all loads were ready with porters to each. Left camp at 11.30 - I had to mount Basha's mule, a good one, too! We passed through some quite beautiful scenery; nothing could be prettier, but the paths were appalling. We found one of our camel on the road fallen among the stones and injured or broken some shoulder bone - had to shoot it. We were accompanied by Basha and some 200 attendants. One hour and three-quarters brought us to a beautiful short, grassy spot on which our tents were already pitched. Shortly after getting set straight, another big Shune arrived with a large and gaily dressed crowd of attendants, called [Blank]. He had come two days as he heard we were not going his road. As usual he brought all this way some hundred people with presents. After his had passed our old friend again paraded more gifts including 188 grass, 174 wood and 5 ghee - a total of 367. This, added to his previous day's total of 726 made 1093 people bearing presents. We had a slight shower of rain just about bedtime, which made the goats patronise our tents.

Camp called Chutchaeara. 8100 altitude.

6 miles. 11.30 – 1.15.

Sunday, March 4th, 1900.

Our porters arrived early so we got a start by 9. All the camel and donkeys again going empty. The road was quite our worst - in 7 miles we climbed down 3888 ft; of course, we had to come very carefully. I came on after seeing camel down the worst part; got to a good stream of water well out in the desert flat at 12, where we camped. The number of carriers was a sight –nearly 800. After lunch we had a call from another Shune with presents of 2 cows: - He is staying the night to show us rhino on our march tomorrow. Bill killed an oribi; saw wild donkey. I dropped a right and left hartebeest, long shots, but one got up and being about dark, though pools and streams of blood made it evident it could not go far, I had to leave it. I saw lion and oryx spoor both quite fresh, but awful long grass.

Camp on Margarite Lake: 4212 altitude.

1 Hartebeest 1 oribi WW

7 miles. 9 -1.

Monday, March 5th, 1900.

Up at 4.30 started away at 6.30 till 10. Splendid road. Crossed big river running into Lake M. Bill shot a zebra and oribi. I killed a good water buck. Fine night –camel better. Ghee shot an oribi.

Camp Guntara – south end of Margarite. 3912 altitude.

1 zebra WW

1 oribi WW

1 Waterbuck 1 oribi AER

8 miles. 6.30 – 10.

Tuesday, March 6th, 1900.

Called at 4 - a quick loading made us ready to start at 5.30. Awfully dark and rather rocky road. However, we moved along slowly. One hour over the ridge brought us into full view of Lake Ciamo - called by natives "Abaya" and by Abyssinians "Degourabay" - it is a lovely little sheet of water, surrounded by good hills on both sides - a length of 20 miles by 15 broad; several islands full of hippo. On the edge of the water we found a small village of people dwelling in small huts built on poles or trees, living on fishing. We did a long move, camping on a nice running but shallow river called "Dilla", running into the Lake. Ghee killed a waterbuck and I shot an oribi on the march. Later when Clark came in he told us while on a hill taking observations, he had seen two lots of elephant feeding about in a large marsh down towards the Lake. So after lunch we all saddled up and wended our way back. After climbing trees and hills, two small lots were marked down - only just their heads visible above the tall grass and sieves. After arranging our plans we found it hopeless to get through the huge grass, so wended our way round the edge and then crossed in

on old tracks till we reached some trees and ant-heaps, from which we prospected the sea of grass. Mahomed, who had gone on to another ant-heap, waved us on, just as will discovered our quarry. Off we went and a few minutes found 10 of us all trying to sit and stand on top of a most diminutive ant-hill. About 400 yards distant we saw 17 elephant - 1 bull, some 10 cows and the rest all ages to quite tiny ones. Eagerly we scanned each set of ivory as they passed a thin place, working rather towards us, but alas, we found the bull only had even fair tusks, so deciding to leave them we just sat and watched the delightful sight. Slowly they approached, and when 100 yards off, turned up direct to us. How we longed for cameras!!1 Advancing to within fifty yards, four went off to our left and suddenly got our wind; turning round, their big ears waving, they trotted round and joined the others, who at once became uneasy: big and little all drew up in line only forty yards off, all their trunks aloft to scent the danger. One of the grandest sights possible! At last they bunched up again and started in a body direct for us. Things were now getting a little too close, and the boys all begged up to shoot one, to try and turn the crowd, as cows with calves are dangerous customers and our exposed place

was no catch; so I was told off to try my new cordite Rigby. Picking the bull in centre of the lot I dropped him dead in his tracks. The rest seemed still not to locate us, and half went away to the left and the others to the right - had they been good ivory we could have swept the lot. My dead one was only 39 yards from us, while the herd were within 30, and so ended one of the most interesting half hours we could have spent. The tusks looked like 80 lbs the pair – small to us who are hoping for double that. We brought the tail and bit of trunk into camp. The boys all pleased and now singing and dancing while their two fat sheep are cooking on the fire.

Camp called Dilla.

1 elephant 1 Waterbuck ASB

12 miles 5.30 - 11. (201 miles)

1 oribi

Wednesday, March 7th, 1900.

Up at 4.30 started at 6.15. Did a long trek till 12.15 - camel going strong. Came along the edge of Lake and left it some 4 miles behind. Ghee shot a fine pair of waterbuck. I had bad luck - wounded badly a zebra, which I followed on streams of blood over two mountain ranges and finally lost in mixing up with another herd. Water rather brackish.

Camp called Zieza Altitude about 3212.

2 Waterbuck AEB

13 miles. 6.15 - 12.15.

Thursday, March 8th, 1900.

Up at 4.30 - loaded quickly and started at 6. Our guide took us all over the place - did an hour up stony river bottoms then the paths went exactly away from Stephanie, climbing hills till at last we ended up at 12.30. We had to camp in the centre of small gardens, each few yards being banked up with stones to prevent crops being washed away - all soon with barley. Needless to say, we have not improved it. In the afternoon Fiterauri Waldo came to call with a numerous retinue of soldiers. He is the last big post and has 1500 rifles. He says they spend all shooting elephants - sent 1,000 tusks down to Adis in the last two months. We had the usual presents of 2 cows with some 80 baskets of bread and 55 of wines. We are camped just below the top of another higher peak on which a very large village is built – below about 12 miles distant lies Lake Ciamo. The poor natives seem to have had a bad time during the two years drought, chiefly living on elephant meat. Climbed up over 2,000 feet again.

Camp called Gardula. Altitude 5500.

5 miles. (5 wrong road) 6 - 12. 30.

Friday, March 9th, 1900.

Up at 5 and started away at 6.15 and camped at 11.30. Had to wait for water camels, which missed road. Our kind friend the Shune, who had camped close by among the gardens, with all his retinue, accompanied us all the day and mounted me on one of his mules. After lunch the Shune came to bid us farewell, presenting us with 5 good camel, another cow and five sheep. We gave him a sword and revolver.

We had a slight shower of rain at night - found we had wasted 1 days by our guide going wrong road.

Camp called Bugarde.

8 miles. 6.15 – 11.30.

Saturday, March 10th, 1900.

Up at 4.30 away at 6 - camped at 10.30 - sun very hot. New camels went well. On the road I shot a couple of hartebeest but one got up and bolted away - losing it by lesser Koodoo turning up. Galla people all said no water for a day - found plenty all round. Bought a fresh mule from an Abyssinian - 60 dollars. After lunch we went out hunting. Ghee met a rhino face to face - just at dark, wounded him but too dark to follow. I killed a waterbuck, hartebeest and good Clarkes Gazelle.

Camp called Goditcha. Altitude 4350.

10 miles. 6 – 10.30

Sunday, March 11th, 1900.

Mahomed went off with 18 men to look and make a road, while we all went out to look for rhino. Ghee came across the bull he wounded last night, laid down close by the place. After a long and exciting track and several shots, he finally bagged a fine specimen about 23 ½ in. horn. Just as I was quitting a 4 hours spoor of another rhino Hassan came galloping up saying an accident had occurred to Darod. We rode back to find Bill sitting with him - appears after wounding a rhino badly they followed him up in open country, found him standing very sick under a tree. Bill went close up and fired twice, when the beast charged. He bolted, trying to load as he ran but his Shikaree seems to have lost his head and ran right into the way of the animal, who at once tossed him; by this Bill had re-armed and finished the brute. On picking Darod up they found his knee holed right through, left leg broken above knee, and a slight wound on lower ribs. We got him moved up to camp later on a stretcher carried by the boys and then Clark did all possible for him - set his leg, washed his wounds and bandaged him up.

1 Rhino AEB

1 Rhino WW

Monday, March 12th, 1900.

Rather late up and getting a start hunting, owing to seeing after men going off to see Fit. Waldo. Ghee came across a small troop of elephant while tracking a rhino - they had been just frightened by a party of Galla people, and seeing Ghee a bull charged him at once. He fired at its head but did not turn it, so had the experience of being hunted in turn. Luckily the animal went off, without doing further harm. At night some Abyssinian soldiers arrived with carriers ready to take the wounded Darod up the hills.

Camp called Goditcha.

Tuesday, March 13th, 1900.

Up at 4.30. Just as we went to bed one heard a lion roaring - shortly after it came nearer, so I told my shikarees to tie up a donkey close to the zereba. On getting up we found 2 lion had killed and eaten half the donkey, while our men had quietly slept through it all. We were all furious at missing such a chance. Ghee settled to keep a few things and stay behind to try to-night - We were delayed till 7 -moving along with many checks till 1. Had to do some awful country, but mostly in river beds - rocks so narrow, had to unload camels.

Camp called Orio River.

10 miles. 7 – 11.30

Wednesday, March 14th, 1900.

Up at 4.30 - started away at 6 till 11.30. Fairly good road, a good way through what had once been all under cultivation, but now all the people dead or dying from starvation. It was a desolate sight to see only some 6 people wandering about digging up roots and picking grass to eat. We passed about 20 corpses - 8 laid in one place - all lately dead, while they said the kraals were full of bodies. Gorso, the main village, was strongly stockaded, while outside was a bit of ground on which stood some wood posts - 12 in all - the tops of which were well carved to represent men as soldiers, also women. We thought they were sort of tombstones or would certainly have brought some along. Had a slight thunderstorm during the night - also had a 70 lb. bag of rice stolen by Galla, for which our sentries got a good calling. Ghee turned up about 5. The lion returned and stayed near all night but were frightened to come and feed – bad luck! Had our first sight of the Hamerkoke range of hills. Darod said the reason he got hurt was his God told him he could be that day and by a rhino - so he knew he should be.

Camp called Dalbana. Altitude 4800.

9 miles. 6 – 11.30

Thursday, March 15th, 1900.

Up at 4.30 - started away at 5-45 - camped on a running river at 10.45. Had to shoot one camel in camp which had been sick some days - disease in throat. On the way also we lost one of our best young camel - through carelessness of boys the last camel on the string was pulled over the side of a precipice, fell over down on the rocks below; was found wedged in on its back some 100 feet below; being all smashed up, it had to be shot - a bad loss to us. We are camped among thousands of empty habitations and gardens - a sad sight. Mahomed and Hamdulla joined us on the march, having been out all night. Nothing to eat! Looking for a road. We did a fairly good march, but mostly uphill work again; a great deal of bush cutting. I bagged a couple of Zebra on the march - one a fine horse.

Camp called Desolation. Altitude 5600

2 zebra

8 miles. 5.45 – 11.45

Friday, March 16th, 1900.

Had a slight shower during the night. Rather queer coincidence 2 thunderstorms meeting above us while the moon shone brightly all the time- Up at 4.30 and moved off at 6

raining more or less for an hour. Had some rough work, but after climbing and crossing several big ranges and descending some 2,000 feet, we at last landed in a flat, dry, sandy river bed. We had our first glimpse of Lake Stephanie far away in the haze - but now only an open plain to cross - sun terribly hot. After lunch we all went out hunting, seeing Zebra from our tents - got nothing though we saw oryx, gerenook and Grants gazelle.

Camp called Zebra. Altitude 2850

9 miles. 6 – 11

Saturday, March 17th, 1900.

Up at 3, left at 4 hoping to do a good moonlight trek, but rain started shortly after and we trudged along for some time, all being wet through. We tried to shelter during the worst of the storm, but it quickly flooded the whole ground, so we picked a small mound a few yards across and pitched our tents. We had hardly got changed into English clothes!! trousers! when Kein rushed in to say elephant were close by near our feeding camel. Away we all went rifles being about all the things we had along. After following their spoor an hour,

we came across fresh rhino and giraffe spoor, so we tossed who went where. Ghee drew the giraffe, which he followed - after breaking a shoulder - for 7 hours, finally bagged him. Bill and I followed elephant but no go. After lunch I went out and shot an oryx, while Bill bagged a Zebra. Saw gerenook and owl here, also lion spoor. A large party of Abyssinians hunting here: dead elephant, rhino and giraffe all over the place.

Camp called Rainwater: Altitude 2600.

6 miles. 4 – 8!! (pouring)

1 oryx 1 Giraffe AEB

1 Zebra WW

Sunday, March 18th, 1900.

Up at 3 and started away at 4.15. Quite fine. Camels went well for 1 ½ hours over splendid open park country, when it began to rain; within half an hour we were wading through mud and water up to the knees. I never saw such a hopeless outlook - the water rushing along over this flat plain, in and out of the bushes. We trudged along trying to make for some high ground - our camel falling about terribly. At last it was so bad and three camel down and injured, that we struggled out on to the open plain and finding a few yards just clear of water, though surrounded, we camped. After changing

our clothes, we got everything out to dry, the sun having come out. One good camel has to be shot and another is badly injured - rather disheartening. Just after lunch, when the heat was terrible, Mohamed came in with news of elephant close by. Away we all went and shortly came on them. Bill and Ghee going to the left, each shot at and wounded fine tuskers, which led them a long trail, but defeated them at last. I ran hard after one bull which broke to the right and after 200 yards caught sight of him running through the bush, rather across to me. I fired twice and saw I had staggered him, so another run and I saw him going past a bare place where a third shot hit him again. He then went and stood behind a bush and I heard the loud gurgling which told me he was done. He made one more effort and getting some 20 yards further, he rolled over and was just dying as I reached him. He was a huge beast, but, alas, one tusk was broken, the other measured [Blank] long and weighed [Blank].I sent to camp for my camera and took some pictures, also 2 with all my shikarees in.

Camp called Single Tusker.

4 miles. 4.15 - 8.

1 Elephant

1 Tusk in rough 92 - 1 broken 35.

Monday, March 19th, 1900.

Rain started at 2 o'clock and poured down till about 8 when all the place was flooded out and made it impossible to move. Later in the day we all went hunting. Ghee killed a cow elephant in such thick bush, unable to see its tusks; quite tiny teeth. I went down with Mohamed to look for road to get our camel across the swamps to the river bed - found the big river quite dry, much to our surprise. Bill shot 2 oryx. I went out at dusk and shot one oryx on the plain in front of camp. Soon after going to bed we had lion round camp in two places. Only one slight shower during night.

Tuesday, March 20th, 1900.

Decided to move about 12 when dry- Ghee went to track lion and twice got up to the bush they were in, but too thick. I got on rhino spoor and started a fine bull in dense bush. Stooping down, I got a snap shot through the foliage, bringing him on his knees. I fired again at random and away he went, running close to Jama and pony. I followed blood trail three miles, when it passed within thirty yards of camp. Being time to move. I told Elwi and Kein to follow spoor a little longer - bad luck, as they came on him only half a mile further. Kein fired but Rhino again bolted clean

into the open plain, right in front of our camp. Bill and I were eating rice pudding. Of course, away we rushed in pursuit - boys joining in. Sent Jana and Hasaan to catch ponies, which they did, but instead of coming to us, started riding the wounded rhino, followed by the whole troop of our ponies, mules and one game donkeys. Lost sight of them and the syces never came back till after we left at 4 o'clock. However, they turned up late in camp, saying the rhino was clean done and left standing under a tree - fine horn: bad luck. Camels got away at 12 till 5. Splendid going, quite flat and park like country. Met a troop of wild hunting dogs. We had to walk all the way and got in very thirsty about 7 o'clock.

Camp Dulei

12 miles. 12 – 5.

Wednesday, March 21st, 1900.

Up at 5 and did a good lo miles march. Flat going, no grass; evidently all flooded valley during rains. Had a little rain on march, but got camp fixed just before a good shower. Weather awful for drying skins - all smelling. Saw ostrich and oryx on road.

After lunch I shot an oryx and a male ostrich; Bill an ostrich.

Camp called Ostrich.

1 oryx

1 ostrich WW

1 ostrich

Thursday, March 22nd, 1900.

Up at 5 and started at 6.30. Did a good march, passed several villages all deserted, excepting a child or two whose parents had run away. We all shot a Grants Gazelle on the march. We were somewhat bothered at not finding the Lake, as our reckonings put us well up to it. Seeing some natives running in the bush, a long run brought two to bag, we then heard the astounding news that Lake Donaldson, which at best is only a swamp during the rains, was quite dry. In fact, we were just across it and that Stephanie itself was dry - merely a small pool of water not fit to drink. Imagine my feelings, for now things seemed hopeless to get further, even if getting back was not easy, as rainwater had been our mainstay for a week. We unloaded camel about 11 and did an hour's trek after lunch, having caught another guide, who first ran like a hare. Directly he found we were "Feringhee Gentlemen" and not Abyssinian, he was quite at home and delighted to guide us. He told us his tribe had moved down, living on grass and roots with fish,

that his head man lived further on, where he would take us, also that the Omo was dry and Rudolph itself low and smelling. In the afternoon Ghee and I paid a visit to some of their grass huts – every inhabitant fled miles ahead. It was funny sight to see them streaming across the skyline of the dry lake, many carrying all their worldly possessions. We found in the huts the roots of the sieves, which they had dug up and dried, then powdered them. Mahomed went off to call on the head man and had the same experience - all bolting. The guide, however, went on and called them back, saying we were not Abyssinians. This brought all the people back and we are now hoping for a moonlight visit from the Chief. He also gave us news of camel on the hills, and that a small river was running on the way to Rudolph.

Camp on Lake Stephanie: altitude 2350.

12 miles - 6.30 - 10.30.

2 – 3.

1 Grant Gazelle

1 Grant Gazelle AEB

1 Grant Gazelle WW

Friday, March 23rd, 1900.

Called at 5.30 and after food interviewed 6 of the natives who had come in during the night, under their two headmen. As we could not hear anything definite about camel and with over 20 men down with fever, we decided to push on for Lake Rudolph and hope to get camel from the Turcana.

We got two guides to take us along and after taking photos of our visitors and our camp in middle of Stephanie, we got a start at 9 o'clock. Awfully hot marching across the dry bed and when one looked back, saw nothing but mirage - our camel seemed to be walking through a lovely lake: We made direct for a narrow gorge in hills, where a river cuts its way out and then camped, having our water bands full up. Sent men along the river bed, who found more water ahead by digging in the sand. Bill shot 2 oryx - I had a hot walk for nothing. Mohamed had a slight touch of fever - all the syces, Dualla and Hamdulla.

Camp called Nth end of Stephanie.

8 miles. 9 - 12

2 oryx

Saturday, March 24th, 1900.

Called at 4. Took a long time to load as we found over 30 boys down with fever - result of drinking Stephanie water. Luckily we had a splendid road right up the river bed, passing through high mountains in a deep gorge. This led us up to the top of the high range quite easily. On the march we loaded up 5 camels at a dirty pool in river bed. – rest all dry. We had to walk and help along with camel, each

company having only three men available. We camped at 10 o'clock fearing to march further with so many sick men behind. After the first batch of ponies and mules arrived with invalids, they went back for more. Several more boys have gone down during the day, but now being on the top of the hills, others are feeling better. Sent boys forward to look for water - did not reach any, so have sent 5 camels two hours back to fill up. Just before sunset we went up a hill close to camp and there we saw Lake Rudolph only some 80 miles away stretched before us; could see the mountains on the far side. We all feel excited now at being so near.

Camp called Erbo on River Mano : Altitude 3900

10 miles 5.30 - 10

Sunday, March 25th, 1900.

At 3 a.m. Ali came to my tent and said out of ten available men to load camel six more were ill. Of course it was no use thinking of moving, so we had an idle and long day in camp doing nothing. Sent two boys ahead, who found some rain-water; they saw rhino and giraffe also. Thunder was all round but missed us. We look out anxiously now for rain. Camel all look grand again. Boys better to-night.

Monday, March 26th, 1900.

Called at 3.30 and away at 5.45. Had a lot of bush cutting. Our camel boy, who had been ahead to locate water, got rather mixed up, so ended in our striking a small river bed which I followed down some distance, as it ran right direction. Not knowing how far water was, I camped at 10.15 so as to give all the sick men time to come in.

After lunch we went on one hour, when we reached a large river, but water had finished running, only a hole which was dry. Same river on which Wellby camped. At night we had a heavy thunderstorm, which gave us lots of good water, every pail being in use to catch it. We all went hunting but found country terribly thick and saw no spoor. Mahomed and I tried to catch some Galla people, but they eluded us in the bush.

Camp called [Blank]

10 miles. 5.45 - 10.15.

3 – 4.

2 black ordiote monkey JJH

Tuesday, March 27th, 1900.

Up at 6 and went off hunting at 7. All came back to lunch with same results - no game. Country impenetrable - big elephant here last year all gone. Ghee and Bill shot 2. Dik-Dik; I and Mahoned a black and white monkey.

1 “ “ monkey JJH

1 “ “ “ “ Mah

2 dikdik AEB

2 “ “ “ “ WW

Wednesday, March 28th, 1900.

1 Zebra 1 Dikdik AEB

1 Dikdik JJH

17 miles 5-10.30

3-6.30

Thursday, March 29th, 1900.

Called at 4.30 and away at 6. Excellent going - chiefly sand and scrub - hardly a blade of grass. Took us 2 ½ hours to reach a place to camp at, about 1 mile from the Lake. We are just opposite where the Omo runs into the Lake. We at once sent down to bring water, having only

four barrels; if the Lake was bad, we should have been in a terrible fix. I was very anxious and could hardly rest till the camel returned, when we rushed to pour a cup out; though muddy and thick it tasted quite sweet, so imagine the relief, as now we have a road home via the Lake to Mombasa if the Nile route is closed. The Lake has gone down 10 ft. in depth - this means a big lot of water, over 200 miles by 30 wide. The country is alive with game - Hartebeeste (topi), giraffe, oryx, zebra, Gerenook. Owl, Grants- we killed a lot of stuff for food and specimens. Ghee had splendid luck, Mohamed told us of a white Topi he had seen here last year - sure enough, we saw it among hundreds of others as we rode to camp; later Ghee shot it running past him. Being his birthday, we had a bottle of champagne to celebrate the treble event. Getting to Rudolph as well one of our best donkeys ran away after a herd of zebra and lost. The far side of Lake is one mass of big mountains; this side all flat, sand and scrub.

Camp on Rudolph.

6 miles. 6 – 8.30

1 Bustard WW

1 Zebra 1 white Topi

2 Topi AEB

1 Topi 1 oryx

1 Topi WW

1 Topi 1 Grant

1 Topi

Friday, March 30th, 1900.

Called at 4.30 moved at 6 till 9. Splendid going. On the way we spotted 2 Giraffe, after which I ran. I had a hard run, as they had winded our caravan. Finding I could not gain on them and feeling blown, I pulled up and tried a running shot with my new 450, though the distance was really too far. To my surprise I saw I had hit her as she ran and after staggering along some 50 yards she finally fell stone dead - a good performance for the rifle at 276 yards. I stopped my camel and got off my cameras, so hope I got some good photographs. Bill shot a Topi and Ghee.

About dinner time we had an awful rain - our camp one sea of mud. Mahomed rode on to try and find natives, also see what the Omo was like. He returned with the disheartening news that the river was dry and not a living soul to be found.

Camp 2nd on Rudolph.

7 miles. 6 - 9.

Saturday, March 31st, 1900.

We were all called at dusk, so as to make an early start to visit Murte and hoist the flag; we took all our cameras along. We were all sadly disappointed with the Omo - only some 60 to 70 yards wide, 12 ft. deep when full, thickly bushed to the

water's edge; now the bed quite dry and grown up with grass - a truly sad sight to us. We all sat in the bed and took numerous photos, then trekked back towards a commanding position in centre of Murte district, where we chose a good high tree in a bare place, sent said Hassan up to lop all branches off so as to have only one stem left on which to hang the English flag. At 12 o'clock up went the flag, while we drank a bottle of champagne to celebrate the event, of course singing God save the Queen; numerous photos we tool- and wondered how long the old flag would fly before being torn down to make a dress for some native.

I shot a record Grant gazelle. At night we had more rain; funny sight to see everyone catching water to fill up all our barrels. During the afternoon we had all the boys on shooting away cartridges at target till a violent thunderstorm ended it. On deciding, our trip to the Nile was impracticable, we at once sorted out a lot of stuff useless to carry further. It grieved us sadly to see our good Berthron boat all broken up - only keeping the canvas, while the oars were cut up for tent pegs, then the fishing net was demolished, all the heavy lines coming in for donkey ropes. Our best 200 yard

Alpine rope (for use in crossing the Omo!!!) was next taken in hand and ruthlessly cut into lengths to make hood ropes for all our mules and ponies. Then came half our stock of fancy goods - beads, iron, wire, bells and bracelets all going overboard; two loads of cheap tobacco followed suit and then 3,000 loaded boys' cartridges - many of these were fired away to get rid of them. At night, to finish up with, we fired two rockets to celebrate the hoisting of the flag – a memorable day to us all. We lost a good donkey which went out with Bill for meat, but seeing a troop of Zebra, it preferred them and galloped off

2 Topi Boys

1 Grant Gazelle

7 miles.

7 miles from Camp to Omo and back.