Diary Page

March 1904

Tuesday, 1st March, 1904.

Took an hour longer in bed, - treked at 5.50 to 8.50 struck river and rest house; pushed on at 8.45 till 10.50. Heat bad. Trying to dry small birds with formaline. No trouble skinning. Camped in middle of jungle path as boys were all tired. Thunder going on all round.

1 Rhino 5.30 to 10.30 a.m.

1 Bushbuck 16 Miles 4.30 to 9.30 p.m.

1 Wart-hog

Wednesday, 2nd March, 1904.

Pushed on early and did a long trek crossing a river. Came across a heap of elephant and rhino spoor. Met at lunch time at Braziba Camp a Mr. Richard Moses with whom I dealt in selling him 4 donkeys - taking about 40 lbs of ivory for one - £30 for the other three. I left camp again at 4.30 and pulled up at 9.30. - heavy work.

17 miles 4 to 9am

18 miles 4.30 to 9.30.

Thursday, 3rd March, 1904.

Got away at 5.30 and had breakfast en route. Five hours brought me into Dongu. Found Com. Holmes away unluckily but was most warmly welcomed by [Blank]

This is quite the most charming situation; station built in the corner of Dongu and Kibale rivers where they form the Welley river. The Kibale is one length of rapids - so pretty; a small island grows all kinds of vegetables and fruit. It is a strongly fortified post mounting four Nordenfeldts with deep moat on land side. After our hard trek of over 300 miles under ten days I felt glad of a day's rest; my capitan also down with fever. The soldier's kit is a very serviceable one; dark blue cotton blouse and very wide walking knickerbockers, trimmed with red and a sash; they look very smart. For head gear they wear a red fez, but as a rule they wear all sorts of head dress. I forgot to mention the rats at my last resting place - hundreds of them, and when I got up it only seemed to invite more in. I counted fifteen sitting on my hat box near my bed. We dine at seven and 8.30; all gone to bed. Must say I was quite ready for it and had the best night since starting.

18 miles - 5.30 - 10.50

9 ½ days marching to Dongu, 289 miles – 30 ½ miles a day.

Friday 4th March, 1904.

Up at 7 a.m. Took heaps of photos; saw my first pygmy man, quite a quaint looking object. Capitan very bad in fever. Had a great repacking and assorting of loads. Photo of pygmy who is thirty years of age and stands 3 ft. 11 ½ “. The Doandi tribe are a very fine well set up lot. The ladies braid their hair in very fine plaits all coiled closely down to the head. Tho men vary their mode of hair dressing, some having two peaks while some run to as many as four. Had three knives and a splendid quiver of fur tipped arrows given me belonging the Mangwetteaa tribe. This station is the best of all, having new brick buildings. The clay for bricks is puddled by prisoners treading it up in a square tank or hole in ground.

Saturday, 5th March, 1904.

Up early writing letters and taking photographs. Letter arrived saying Com. Holmes would not be in, so I decided to start, dare not waste more time. At 3 o'clock my 85 porters - fine looking Mangwetteaa tribesmen - arrived and we got all baggage punted over the river - swimming the donkeys. My hosts all turned out to bid me farewell, and I felt sorry to leave such a jolly place. Enjoyed the afternoon trek, chiefly through forest country;

all the streams being one matted jungle. Treked from 4 to 8.30; very dark among the forest glades - could not see one's hand before one. Camped in a lovely little banana grove among a small village. Met crowds of people carrying bananas into Dongu. I got a lot and had them stowed - most excellent.

16 miles - 4 - 8.30.

Sunday, 6th March, 1904.

Up at four and away at five; found three porters missing. Had a lovely trek; country gorgeous with tropical scenery and plants - many bright butterflies in places. The scent of all the flowers and trees in the early morning is splendid. Did 4 ½ hours and spent day in small village, when I shot a few birds in dense swampy jungle. We moved on again at 4 till 8.15; thunder and lightning going on all round, but luckily not much rain.

15 miles 5 - 9 - 20 a.m.

14 miles 4 - 8. 15 p.m.

Monday, 7th March, 1904.

I was awake all night fearing no one would call us. Got away at 4.30 till 10. I had a very poor time, feeling very bad; results I expect of eating bananas. Reached Niangoria and warmly welcomed by several gentlemen not speaking a word of English. Very pretty place on Welly river, splendid palms and good gardens. A day of fasting makes me feel better. More thunder and rain so stayed over a night. Good brick and tile buildings.

I put in an appearance at dinner but only took a little soup. My kind hosts provided me with eggs, milk and pineapple for the road. Turned in early to get a good night.

17 miles - 4.30 - 10 a.m.

2 days to Niangoria ; 62 miles = 31 a day.

Tuesday, 8th March, 1904.

Up at five feeling quite fit again. Our thirty-five Monbetian porters and soldiers turned up in good time, and after bidding my hosts adieu started off at 6.30. Rained most of the trek but just got to a kraal at twelve, when a terrific thunderstorm started and poured for 2 ½ hours. These porters are a striking looking lot; they daub their faces in black streaks and patterns on their body. A lady I saw had made herself into a chess board by lining out the whole body in squares! The men wear a huge sort of skin bunched out with a belt and the top turned down over it. Their headgear is very varied. Where we stopped for lunch the front of kraals were whitewashed and on that regular Gainsboro pictures - rather more unique than proper! Bananas are in full swing – any amount. At 5.30 we treked again and at 7 reached Tuba - a big chief living there. We are passing through lovely tropical country- forest and open country intermixed; crossed a big river, swimming our donkeys. The trees and palms are lovely. I never saw such huge and graceful palms - 30 yards across.

Lost my favourite little riding Shambuck - had all the trip. Getting heaps of eggs and chickens from the kraals. Our hosts tonight are a weird looking lot - such a funny head dress; a bit of fine plaited matting forms the head shape; a large tuft of feathers and four ivory darts like huge hatpins stuck right through. These people are not half so black as the Bari. Funny how there are scarcely any guinea fowl since leaving Locha, also the long feathered night-jar only reached from Locha to Fanadge. Shot several birds on the march as there seems no game. I am sleeping in a huge shed; fire in centre, porters and baggage one end; soldiers and servants round fire and my bed at other end. A real homely party, especially when they snore and cough!

31 miles - 6.30 – 12)

3.30 – 7 )

Wednesday, March 9th, 1904.

Got an early move on, leaving at 5.15; had an awful march, going till 6.15 with only one hour's rest at 2 o'clock for breakfast! It's simply no use taking any notice of the distances or hours out here, besides which most of it was through dense forest jungle - full of swamps, over some of which were native narrow bridges - mostly rotten. Many a roll we had my poor old donkey and I. We were continually wrong end up; wonder how they never break a leg.

I never saw such a jungle; some lovely trees 150 to 200 ft. high, but under one mass of creepers, palms and all kinds or tropical plants. Very hard to find a bird if one shoots any; saw several monkeys. Four miles from our resting place a big chief's kraal called Boheme. I was met by the deputation sent out to meet me, all armed with wondrous big knives, luckily only to cut a clear road for the English sahib! but our guides took us a short cut. Never have I seen such a scramble; fairly had to cut a road for our donkeys. At one place where we took a header I emerged simply covered with ants and how they bit! At dark I set to work and skinned a large crested hornbill I shot; tiring work after a hard day. I took several jungle photographs on the road. Had a real old row with my capitan. I hope a good calling will do him good. Expect to do a trade with a donkey for ivory in morning. Rather delay on start.

40 miles. 5.15 a.m. - 6.15 (1 hour's stop)

Thursday, 10th March, 1904.

Had to wait late as the Chief wanted to do a deal for donkey, but as he wanted the best one we did not come to terms. Bought three spears and took photos of the Shiek and a lot of ladies - rather quaint group! Got away just before eight and had a fearful day, were moving nearly all the time except for little rests. Nine at night before we reached Bele.

Had a mile or more at start to cut away for donkeys as they had felled a new clearing and made the old trail quite impossible; luckily as the sun was very hot we were entirely in the thick forest. I saw our common bracken in Africa to-day for the first time. We did about thirty-five miles, and had some awful work in the marches with donkeys when trying to get them across rotten bridges. Wonderful how they don't break a leg or lame themselves. We got caught some seven miles off in the dark and had to link hands and feel our way along step by step; very tedious and not amusing with animals to look after! At last we reached the village water, when I sat down and refused to move till the shiek brought torches. Very shortly the lights appeared and we wore escorted in about three quarters of a mile in great state and pomp. It was rather a novel sight about a hundred of these people all saluting first and then joining in with torches to replace those going out. After escorting me in state to the chief resting place we soon got things put straight. Our porters were clean tired, for it really was a big day's work. This thick jungle quite spoils all bird collecting. I thought I saw the feathery winged night-jar, but could not be certain - guinea fowl seems very scarce, not seen one since Lado where they swarm.

35 Miles 7.45 – 9 p.m.

Friday, 11th March, 1904.

Though late to bed I called camp at 4.30 as I knew we had a long march again. Started away at 6 o'clock and did nine hours marching, arriving at Poko 4 o'clock after halts for breakfast and rests. The town stands on the river Bomakandi, and looks very pretty from across the water as you approach down a hill and see all the station laid below. The houses and barracks are all brick and the courtyards full of splendid palms, among which stroll about at least a dozen grey parrots, a Colobus monkey and a young wild pig. The Commandant Versluys was on the bank with Mons. Desmet to receive me. I landed with my donkey swimming alongside the boat; all the baggage came over in safety. I heard there were no ochapi from here, though the skin of one is on the Commandant's verandah. I find also Commandant Wakey is close by at Amadis, so I shall proceed there instead of Zobia. To-day all the Chiefs bring in piles of bananas to be distributed among the soldiers - also pay day. Rather funny watching all the ladies as well in long rows having their cowrie shells (20) counted out. The women make the bricks and prepare the gum when drying.

32 miles - 6 – 3

4 days to Poko - 138 = 34 ½ miles a day.

Saturday, 12th March, 1904.

Poured with rain the whole day - nice look out! Got a letter from the General enclosing one from Yorkshire Bank. Very busy rearranging loads and skinning birds. Got some nice ivory curios also the Tic-a-tic's weapons. Hear lots of elephant six hours out so shall hunt a few days. This is a very unhealthy place in the rains - lots of sickness. Plenty of pineapple and citrons. Have sent runners out to the big Chiefs - Zunett and Akengi - about trading my donkeys.

Sunday, 13th March, 1904.

Glad to say my twenty porters turned up about 8 a.m., so after a hasty breakfast I started off again, crossing the Bomakandi. I ought almost to reach the Equator during next few days. Took one donkey along as roads are getting quite impassable. Shot a second blue turacon - pretty birds. Had quite ovations en route. Wonderful how news of one's movements goes ahead. Gangs of ladies were working on the paths, trying to keep down the grass, but it grows inches in a night. Did six and a half hours and feared we were going to drop in for a fearful storm. However, we just beat it and camped in an old kraal on the Bomakandi river. Had awful work getting the poor donkey along. I got bogged

more than once – clean over saddle. A swift running torrent also took some negotiating; a fallen tree helped us, together with a cord of bark off trees, but the donkey starting in upstream, when only half over, was washed right over the tree, as we only clung on to it by an old rotten neck rope. I felt sure every yard would be its last. Luckily it held and gradually we got to the shore where we had another hard job to get it out. All the low forests are now a sheet of water, and a few days more the country will be impossible for hunting.

25 miles.

Monday, 14th March, 1904.

Off at 6 a.m. prepared for a tiring walk. Took a lot of boys out and cameras in hopes of being wanted. Got on spoor of elephant about nine, and followed through dense jungle till nearly one. My Shikaries are hopeless people and of course I cannot talk much to them. We seemed simply to be trying to run an elephant down; at last I called a halt. Wet through in the early trek; I had dried, but on the way home came in for terrific thunderstorm and right out in the open. Of course got drenched again and nothing to change into except pyjamas. Oh dear! these rains are awful, heartbreaking work and one

cannot go on long in such weather. You can imagine the nice vapour bath in the early morn! However, plenty of work and no heavy feeding keeps me very fit so far. I camped about 3 o'clock; must have done nine hours, never having sat down scarcely. Curious thing here is at dusk for about quarter of an hour to see the large bats all flying over to the west - all going same road. I have shot four as they are quite new to me and quaint beasts. The home of the Grey parrot is round this district; the Colobus monkey is also here. I saw a waist band or zebra and found it came from Akengi's country which I must try and work. Had another row with my Capitan; gave him it well, as I don't care if he and the use less cook leave any time. They are both the idlest and most useless men I ever struck. Capitan is always ill, eating, praying or sleeping. However shall hope to ship them off in another fortnight if these rains come daily, as it is useless to try and shoot.

2 Water-buck.

1 Bush-buck. (29miles)

1 Buffalo.

Tuesday, 15th March, 1904.

Started at daylight and had a hard disappointing day. To begin with I was nearly devoured by midnight callers; results of sleeping in an old kraal however well cleaned out.

After a long wet trail came on a fresh spoor and after two hours through dense jungle and deep wet bogs came up with the elephant as he was feeding. As usual my owls of men started him off; their idea seems to be as soon as they see him to run after him and fire at his tail quite regardless of ivory or no ivory. After calling them well and making them go slow we suddenly again came on the animal standing broadside on about fifteen yards off. Both my rifles had been put into the cases; by the time I got them out the animal had scented us. Not having got a sight of his head I was waiting with my shikaree two yards behind with my second rifle. The elephant having winded us quickly turned round facing us. I saw he had good tusks so waited hoping he would turn his head and not charge. My shikaree however on his facing us thought his last hour had come; and I don’t ever remember having a bullet so near my head. He evidently had pulled the trigger in his anxiety and only missed me by an inch or so. Of course it scared the beast and I only got one bullet in behind the shoulder; most annoying as we followed the trail for hours till he crossed the Bomakandi. He bled a good bit so I hope to cross the river and pick up the trail to-morrow.

I came back to camp pretty well tired and disappointed, besides find my capitan in his usual state of over-eating and then sick. Wonderful how soldiers arrive with all sorts of little presents. To-day some fresh eggs and two pineapples came in from a Belgian post far away who heard I was shooting in the neighbourhood. I have numerous calls from all the Chiefs who also bring loads of bananas, sweet potatoes and eggs. Of course chickens without end. I shot some more of the large bats as they flew over.

24 miles.

Wednesday, 16th March, 1904.

Leaving camp at 5.30 I crossed the Bomakandi river in a log canoe, and picking up spoor of the wounded elephant where he had crossed the previous day we followed it up till it recrossed the river into the dense jungle we had hunted the first day; another sail across and at last we ran to ground a nice pair of 60 lbs. tusks. I find each day these people more hopeless to deal with, while my own two boys are worse than useless. Took some more photos on river, also of a water buck head shot in the afternoon, the meat of which was eagerly devoured by our porters. Up till after 11 skinning birds. Rats and other biting beasts swarm in my kraal.

1 Elephant.

1 Water-buck. 22 miles

Thursday, 17th March, 1904.

Had intended hunting buffalo but these lying shikarees now say they are five days off, so treked from Chief Chele’s kraal; did seven hours and then swam the donkey over the river and reached Poko at four. Found Chief Okengi and his son waiting for me - a most quaint old man; has long pigtails plaited of his beard! He is one of the biggest Chiefs of the Azandis. I did a good deal getting 195 lbs. of ivory for two donkeys still leaving me with my best one. I took photos of my callers also the sister who had an extraordinary hair arrangement, stood up the height of a tall tiara, made of hair cut off dead people! And finely plaited and covered with the small cowrie shell they use to pay the natives with. Had a splendid bathe at lunch time; found the river gone down three feet where our donkey was nearly washed away. Okengi presented me with a fine spear, a parrot and ochapi belt. The people round here cut and hack their ears about terribly and a few of the young girls cut the nose and put a piece of wood in. Both men and women have many patterns worked on the body. A grave is marked with a stake on top of which is a straw umbrella or else two stakes and a few feathers strung across on thin bark.

25 miles.

Five days south of Poko 125 miles = 25 miles a day.

Friday, 18th March, 1904.

Up at 5 o'clock and had several hours hard work sorting out stores and repacking loads. Capitan as usual thinks he is going to die, and I surprised him when I told him I started at three for Amadis! I took a photo of another pygmy to-day; too funny how he stood for the big camera, but when I pointed the binocular at him he gave a wild scream, dropped his bow and arrows and fled! My friend, Okengi, gave me a beautiful spear while the son brought me a parrot. I went and bid goodbye to my two friends, the donkeys. Poor Jacob I fear won't get any more biscuits and sugar. Okengi revels in countless wives, I believe about 200. He is a great chief of the Asandi and rules over some thousands. He brings in a great quantity of gum and is a great friend of the white men. He supplied me with fifty porters so I have far more than I need. It is awfully hard work having such a lazy good-for-nothing two boys. It means working every minute of the day and very little sleep when in bed. I got everything safely over the river, though my one donkey nearly capsized the log canoe by getting a leg over. I left the capitan behind, saying he would follow,

don't care if he does or not, as I shall ship him off at Amadis, he having told me he would not go any further. Only got about two miles on road when thunder storms came up in all directions. We luckily made for an old kraal where I got an old open shed for self, cook and donkey, and am now sitting with rain pouring down both outside and in!! Don't see much chance of a dry bed to-night. It's really rather depressing to be wet through twice a day regularly. The dense forest is also very monotonous, and after a few days gets on one's nerves. It's an extraordinary growth of stuff; some fine big trees up which all sorts of creepers run, running a couple of hundred yards in length. Then under all is the dense under-covert of palms and bush – the whole place swarming with ants! It's rather an undertaking to be travelling about this country without being able to speak a word of the language; however, I get along first-class. I am getting together a numerous collection of curios - especially knives and spears. I have now to carry along about 210 lbs. of ivory. This requires seven extra porters, so loads don't diminish! Quite sorry to leave my kind friend Mon. Joseph Desmet.

Saturday, 19th March, 1904.

Had all the Porters out and away by 4.30 much to the soldiers disgust. I made them all carry armfuls of dry reeds to make torches of and so we picked our way through the dark jungle - unfortunately a bridge gave way and sent myself, donkey and eight men into the swamp - rather a poor game in the dark! Rain started soon after getting away and four thunderstorms came up from different directions. We got a good ducking as it never ceased till four. However, we did about 9 hours. At night I found all my bed and blanket nice and wet, almost as bad as what I had on. However, I took no harm from it. It's rather amusing to see how all the ladies run a mile after one on the road and having overtaken me stop, come to attention, slap their thigh and then shake hands. My Capitan came along in afternoon.

31 miles. 4.30 – 1.30

Sunday, 20th March, 1904.

Again turned all out at 3.30 and got a move at 4.20. After six and a half hours I found two bearded gents in long white garments sitting by the roadside, sent out to escort me to the mission kept by an Irishman, Mr. Maguire, on whom I paid a short visit. He also spoke most highly of the Belgian Government.

I then crossed a small river and was met by the Com. Wakey. On reaching the station, which is all well built of brick on the banks of the wide Welley river and all been done in six months, we sat and talked till my loads came along when I had to have a regular drying day. Capitan and Monsuit only turned up ages after all loads had come. Said they were not going to travel in the dark; thank goodness only two more days of them. Delighted to find a runner in with my English mail up to February 4th; so good of the officials hunting me down like they do. Had some jolly spears given me by Com. Wakey - 2 large ones - the Ababaa and smaller ones of the Abarambo people. My last friend among the donkeys has how gone, as I have accepted 70 lbs. of ivory for him, to be given me at Boma, so I have done well with getting 270 lbs. of ivory into pocket. Most kind people - giving me all sorts of sweets. The country is getting quite impassable from rain. However, my long walk has about ended, as I now take the small rivers and paddle along them. Had a busy afternoon; so much drying with birds and rifles and the whole outfit drenched. Thunder going on again to-night – bad luck as it's awful work in the wet.

21 miles 4.15 - 10.45

1 ½ days Poko to Amadis 52 miles = 34 a day.

Monday, 21st March, 1904.

Being told there were lots of game just across the river I got up at four to hunt; stayed out till twelve and saw nothing but four female Gazelle, so I had to shoot one to bring score meat back. Rather sorry I went out, only tiring one for nothing. My kind host, Com. Wakey, gave me some nicе assegais, and his second in command also presented me with five, so I am getting a big collection. Had the usual thunder and gale; heavy rain at dusk. Went down to bid Pere Maguire farewell. They have about 300 boys at the mission station. He was also very disgusted at the talked of Belgian atrocities and hopes I will write and give my experiences. Burroughes, it appears, even by his own friends out here has a very bad character; looted the soldiers' stores, and besides drinking is a morphine fiend. I heard some very interesting things about the tribes. Com. Wakey says in seven years he has only heard of one case of cannibalism, when a Chief ate his own son, for which he was hung. To think of only four or five years of all the slave trade and atrocities committed by the Chiefs, all of which is now ended. Chief Renzi for instance cut off his son’s hands ears and nose.

It’s extraordinary the work these men get through, Amadi having all been rebuilt in solid brick in three months! About six large double houses besides many soldiers quarters. The thunder with incessant lighting was a grand sight as we returned by boat from Pere Maguire. My hosts gave me all sorts of sweets for dinner and lunch – too kind of them. I gave the Com. Wakey my second gunmetal watch, so I hope my only one won’t at once go wrong. My two useless boys were rather taken aback when I paid them up till to-day only – it will teach them a lesson; then the capitain disputed it being March, said it was April. Capped all through when he said servants ought to be mounted. I said I walked most of the time, upon which he said: “that’s different. It’s your business to walk when you are out with soldiers.”!! I wrote to Mother via Boma, also to the general and O.C. at Toro.

1 Antelope.

Tuesday, 22nd March, 1904.

Up again at 4 a.m. to write letters and get loads out. I am travelling in great state – two boats called perrokes. They are large canoes hollowed out of a tree, about 2’6” wide and carry about 20 men. I have one for myself

with about 10 feet covered in by a grass roof under which I can sit and work or read. Twelve men form the crew and paddle half at each end, one soldier and my new cook. The other boat takes most of my baggage. We travelled along from 7.30 to 5.45 only stopping twice to accept deputations who brought eggs and pineapples. I have already six lovely pineapples; seems such a shame as I pass them on to the boys. The forest comes down to the water and lots of monkeys play about in the tree tops.

On the Welley River now; it’s very wide and lots of rapids. Rather exciting shooting them, we did to-day to save carrying but it’s rather a risk. I have had a busy night as I had practically to cook my huge meal and also put up one’s own cot. I shall soon tire of much river work; too much sitting still. One of my native pals had decorated himself by tying a huge lead tablespoon around his waist, when it hung down in front like a (kilt) sporran. They have the most varied ways of hair dressing, and most wear it plaited into very fine plaits which stand straight on end. I feel really alone in darkest Africa! Shall have to do most things for one’s self, but I had before!

Peroke 7.30 to 5.45 p.m. 10 hours.

Wednesday, 23rd March, 1904.

Had a poor day altogether. Had a bad attack of indigestion which out me off. Started boats away at 6 o’colck, had one porterage past rather dangerous rapids. About 5 o’clock we were caught in centre of river in a regular tornado which always precedes the two thunderstorms coming up. I was covered all down, but it was the greatest luck we got to the shore without capsizing. The river was like a sea, waves and spray dashing up to all heights. Stopped us an hour and so had to tie up for the night; river too dangerous for night work with rocks and hippo combined. The daily rains are most depressing, and if not finding a good chance of Ochapi shall push for home by the early May boat.

1 Antelope!

6.15 to 5 + 9 ½ hours.

Thursday, 24th March, 1904.

Off at 6.30 and reached Bomakandi 9.30. Here I changed both boats, crew and soldiers. I was only feeling very seedy, and having to accept hospitality in shape of heavy lunch and dinner it made me worse again. This is a most delightful place, standing well above the river on very high bank; good timber, gardens, cows and mules. Found only one man able to speak a

little English. Found it a splendid place for birds and shot about twelve. My bungalow looks on to the river more than half a mile wide.

6.30-9.30 3hours

1 Big Water snake.

1 Wart-hog.

Friday, 25th March, 1904.

Took up my quarters in new peruke at 7.30 feeling very sorry for myself; said goodbye to my kind hosts and rested all day. It’s awful hard work having to do all the packing when one is not fit. I starved most of the day and took two doses of Chlorodyne, as one has to be very careful out here of dysentery. Had a most terrific thunderstorm in afternoon, which made one more miserable. Then my boys put me out at 5.30 at a most awful place – filthy dirty hovel; gave one the creeps to go in. However pitch dark and raining hard one had to. I think it was quite the worst place I have been in yet! However, I was glad to get to bed – despite rats and other inmates!

7.30 - 5.30 10 hours

1 Antelope.

Saturday, 26th March, 1904.

Needless to say I was up before daylight and away at 6 o’clock, feeling much better – pain all gone. We have been passing through some lovely scenery; river is full of rocks and rapids, but we shot them all, many a time all the crew having to take to the water to work us off a rock.

I find my baggage peruke behind – great nuisance. Saw lots of antelope feeding on the water edge, so I shot a water-buck and took it aboard. My Gibb’s rifle has gone wrong, right barrel going down of its own accord; it went off to-day, luckily only into the water. After all it possibly did the same when my shikaree nearly shot me. Was able to enjoy light meals again to-day and feel well again. Heavy rains as usual all round, but we missed the worst. Lots of hippo; river very wide and full of islands. Wonderful the different ways my crew cut their ears about; lots cut out the whole of the centre but the skipper is the quaintest. He has plaited in beads with horse-hair all round the edges and then left the eight pieces of hair sticking out about six inches; gives him a most weird look, but they all have that. I was determined to sleep at Boma, so we got there about 9.30, disturbing the inhabitants from rest. Twenty natives singing and yelling let people know where they are. We had a queer three hours after dusk a quarter moon though helped us a good bit, but we went some awful crashes on to rocks; took us an hour nearly to get off one.

1 Water-buck.

Sundays 27th March, 1904.

I had the usual busy morning getting all baggage dry and things repacked. Luckily my second boat came in at breakfast time. Two very nice officers here, who, as usual, try to do everything possible to help me along. Just told me they have managed to get me one peroke, so I start at three, baggage to follow to-morrow. Got a very fine water snake, also wart hog, which in size runs enormous. It appears Маjor Burrows’ name at Donga among the natives was “ “ Hang him up Burrows! A useful man to talk of Belgian atrocities. I got away well before three and had a porterage one hour on - rapids awful as photos will show. By name “ “ . My boat stuck in the middle for nearly two hours. I took many photos, also two of a quaint kraal - built in slabs of mud fitted between sticks and then thatched in with big leaves. Its inhabitants or rather the ladies help to carry the loads for porterage!! My crew, also the man in charge who had his orders to sleep at " " tried as usual to get me out at dusk. I talked loudly and on we went; at 10.30 they said we must porterage so out I got and then found the leading men had put them into a dirty kraal half-

way across the porterage. I jolly soon had them out again. Having got all stacked on river bank, under sheets as storms were playing all round and raining slightly, my boy and I sat till 11.30 when I said I felt sure they had all gone back to the kraal, so away we crept through the jungle and heard loud talking, upon which we both armed ourselves with big sticks and then stalked the scene of action. As niggers always disappear into the bush as if a bomb had scattered them, I sent my boy round to do a diver. The moment he jumped into the light they fled, and spotting my headman clad in a flowing white garment and felt hat I gave pursuit. Too funny the whole thing. I stuck to him as he ran, but could only just touch him with the stick when luckily he fell, then I collared him and gave him the best licking a boy ever had. We then proceeded to stalk the rest of crew who were feeding on board the peroke. Same effect and scene, except they all swam off to islands and we left two behind. Having thrown overboard all the bananas and potatoes we started the peruke and they proved different men after, but I made them row and drift the whole night, rather risky in only a bad quarter moon. I never stand any humbug with these boys. Hippo grunting and splashing all round the place.

1 Water snake.

1 Wart Hog. 3 p.m. - 11.

Monday, 28th March, 1904

We rowed the whole day long; passed Soro at 6 a.m. where we should have slept. Plenty of Hippo, so chose a nice one. Had a splendid scene - three elephant crossed the river just in front and when in deep water and we were 100 yards off only I fired a rifle to frighten them and watched the fun; rolling about - going for each other; was a great sight. I took several binocular photos of them. Seen great many birds all day and have been skinning the whole time. I reached a small post - Angu - at 6 o'clock p.m. where I sleep, as the officer can tell me about ochapi I hope.

4am - 5pm

1 Hippo.

1 Waterbuck.

Tuesday, 29th March, 1904.

Could learn little about ochapi from my host except that they dwelt in the hills one day out of Inguetra. Gave my baggage boat till 2 o'clock but it never came, so I started. Had some exciting work in some big rapids, got fairly stuck up with all baggage on board. Stuck on the ledge of the falls; water rushing over great pace and within an inch of top. Had to form a chain across to the dry rocks and pass all baggage along. Then men got the boat to start when suddenly off it shot down the rapids with only myself on board and one boy also turned a somersault in.

We dashed down clean on to a rock which brought us to a dead stop but stove our bows clean in. However, we puddled the leaks up and got all aboard once more. We then reached Kenga rapids where we again unloaded and called in the village beauties to help us porterage. Only got some two miles along when I had just laid down; suddenly loud yells from my crew and double quick rowing made me know some danger was ahead. Jumping out I saw we were about fifty yards from what I thought was a hippo in the dim moon-light. As these beasts are dangerous to perokes I quickly got out a rifle and gave him a shot. Suddenly he raised his head and I saw a nice pair of tusks. The elephant now made for the shore and we at a respectful distance followed. I shot him twice and when he got to the bank could not get out. Standing by we watched his frantic and dying efforts – rolling in water, tearing up bushes. At last all was still so I pulled alongside. We now had to stay by all night, working up to the shoulders in water. Had to cut the head clean off - no easy job with no axes. Of course left behind with spare baggage when wanted. However by 6 а.m. it was off and safely inside our already heavily laden boat. It was a most picturesque sight. Our little party camped on the bank, working by

the aid of two big fires, covered with raw meat.

1 elephant.

Wednesday, 30th March, 1904.

Getting away at 6 a.m. we travelled the whole day through quite beautiful scenery. I never saw such pretty bits – full of islands all palms and flowering trees to the water edge. Hundreds of grey parrots flew about, and at last I shot a couple. We had a long, slow and tedious row - river very low and always on rocks. My peroke also might be sweeter; hung round with birds and three head skins and now the boat full of strong smelling elephant meat! Shall be glad to be out.

6 a.m. – 7p.m.

7.30 p.m. – 2 a.m.

Thursday, 31st March, 1904.

Went slowly during night and no alarms. Seems quite a novel experience these nightly sails, but what can be more delightful. Reached Jabir at 2.30 a.m. and I made boys keep quiet as I did not want to rouse the whole place at that hour, so had a snooze in my peroke - a bed on baggage is not a soft one! Found my hosts unable to speak much English. However, they did their best for me and managed to fetch in fourteen porters in afternoon, which enabled me to take along nearly all my personal kit. Got three nice assegais; paid the Sultan a visit but alas found him away. Crossed river at 6 o'clock. Many delays - rain.

Two men leaving their loads and bolting delayed us till 7.30. We then marched 6 hours in between storms. Got tusks chopped out, but no baggage arrived as yet.

7 days peroke doing 95 hours.

7.30 p.m. - 4.30 а.m.