Diary Page

Wednesday, March 1st, 1905.

Rather late getting up, not having set the alarum. Got away at 6.15 and had a charming cool walk of 5 hours 40 mins. Passed some lovely scenery. Lots of splendid trees. Induced one pygmy to come along. Saw a lot of good ferns and dug up some to dry. Saw only one or two elephant and buffalo spoor - evidently scarce. Reached Karvale about 12 o'clock and sent round to try and collect the scattered Pygmies. About two a chief came in and after giving him presents he brought in about 20 men. Later we induced about 12 ladies to come. We loaded them with presents in hopes they will become friendly. They have promised to take us into the forest tomorrow to hunt okapi.

6.15 - 12 = 5 ¾ - 17 Miles.

Thursday, March 2nd, 1905.

Had arranged all for a great okapi hunt with the Pygmies, but on rising at 4.30 we found a steady downpour which never ceased till 12 o’clock. After that we had thunderstorms all day. I shot two or three birds, dug up a lot of ferns, sent back 16 of our porters. After lunch, by the number of Pygmies that flocked into our camp from the surrounding forest, our fame and gifts had evidently travelled far. After giving us a series of dances I took a lot of photos and then the usual gifts of salt, brasserie, beads and cloth took place. Over 50 of them swallowed up a lot of our stuff! Later on we visited one of their villages; no fear of taking them by surprise; never saw such a road! We found about 8 huts built of strong pea rods, bent to a flat centre point about 7 ft. in diameter and 4 ft. high. It is all tied and laced together and then covered with the big plantain leaves. I only saw one cooking pot. As for anything else the place was quite destitute. Very hard to pick up anything from them - a knife, pipe, steel necklets and earrings being all so far.

Friday, March 3rd, 1905.

Fine morning, so at 6.30 we sallied forth in company with over 50 Pygmy hunters, all armed with bows and arrows and spears, also with their dogs along. Going out along the Beni path for some 5 miles we separated into 2 parties, spreading out like a fan and driving all the dense forest in line. Suddenly directly game is started the hitherto silent crowd suddenly start a cry like Huh - Huh. The bells which are on the dogs are loosed and those close to the game begin to blow their reed horns and whistles. This brings round all the men on the flank who try to surround the beast. In our case unfortunately both kills resulted only in 2 pigs - one of them a boy of only 16 speared. A very long tramp got us back to camp at 12 o'clock, both my companion and Mohamed having had enough. It is delightful work in the forest. Some splendid trees and heaps of ferns. At night letters and a case came in from Irumu. Our Pygmy friends have now quite taken to us and come in of their own accord, nor do the ladies run away on seeing us.

2 Pig.

Saturday, March 4th, 1905.

Went out at daylight. Flies perfectly awful - nearly worried the poor donkey. Got 6 antelope in of sorts which we skinned, but one or two got badly gashed and cut by Pygmies. Two or three were new to me. Only had a slight shower. After ten o'clock when we got to bed - busy skinning.

6 Antelope.

Sunday, March 5th, 1905.

Had a very busy day. Luckily nice sun and wind, so got all the 6 antelope finished and dried off. Sent a runner letter for Dufile about the boat. Killed 2 more enormous water-hogs, male and female. Cut one head off behind the shoulders for a case like lion. Followed fresh spoor of okapi but coming on to the hogs; no holding off the Pygmy hunter from drawing blood.

2 Water-Hog.

Length. 6 ft. 8 in.

Girth. 56"

Height. 34"

Monday, March 6th, 1905.

Had a busy day again with curing the pig and deer. Got two more antelope. Hard work getting all in during the day. Seven ladies joined in the hunt today. One of the antelope is new to me, but not full grown. Had 3 Pygmy ladies come in to sweep up our camp!!

2 Antelope.

Tuesday, March 7th, 1905.

Having great luck in weather - 3 fine days running. Paid a visit to a fresh Mambutti village to get more photographs. As we did not take along the Chief many of the good folk fled on seeing us and called back to their pals who stayed that they were frightened because our eyes shone like fire! Splendid day for drying skins. Got a lot of curios in - among others a drum, spears, ornaments, knives and armlets. One of the Pygmy Chiefs went out and gathered us specimens of their 3 poisons; one the Gova Gova was like a common docking - the Arbe like a beech but shrub - and the Appoie like our common nettle. They rub these in their hands and then rub on to the shafts of their spears or arrows. Had a letter from Irumu and sent in two also sent on five boxes to Myarabeau so that we can move with our own porters. Saw a good many fresh tracks of okapi but never got up to any. Got a new sort of pig - red, long tassel on ears and ridge of hair on back. This makes the third sort.

1 New Red Pig.

Wednesday, March 8th, 1905.

All hands, even the Pygmies, tired out, so had a day off. Skinned the red pig whole. Porters came in with letter and huge store box crammed with eatables from the C.O. at Irumu - awfully kind of them. Held a big dance late in the afternoon so that we could pick out those we would most like to persuade to accompany us home. Luckily we have quite won their confidence now and they are not at all frightened or suspicious. Of course one has to work things very carefully. Our plan was to pick out eight and say they were the best dancers. These we gave extra presents to and then said we should like them to accompany us back to the next resting place, Myarabeau, there to dance and hunt with us. They have promised to come, but of course that is nothing to rely on, though presents to the Chief has made him say they must. Two of the ladies happen to be his daughters. We had a busy day buying Pygmy trophies - drums (rare), spears, bows and ornaments. Another lovely day but awful hot. Only two more days, alas.

Thursday, March 9th, 1905.

Our little friends got rather frightened at our picking out some of them and asking them to go along to Myarabeau, and when they were called for hunting many went off into the bush. However, after a while we got the chief to come in and reassured him, so he collected his people, and though late went out hunting. I decided to send in Brown to Irum to inspect some Pygmies that had come in from other parts and willing to go, so I start away in the morning, our plan being to take the best of these along and have a big dance at Myarabeau in case we want to select any, should the others not suit. Very hot again. Killed three more small red topping deer; rather a pretty buck. It is rather sad to think this is one's last chance for okapi, but it would be a hopeless job to shoot one. All one could do would he to be in at the death with all the rest of the crowd - the jungle is too thick. Load of cloth came in from the Greek.

3 Antelope.

Friday, March 10th, 1905.

Up at 4.30 and finding our little friends did not want to accompany me on to Myarabeau I got 3 or 4 extra porters and left at 6.15. My first trek for home - however much one enjoys a trip, there is always something fascinating to get one's head turned homewards. Luckily passed through the worst part of the forest for the big flies and hardly saw one. Started a buffalo. I took several photos on the way. Came along quickly, only 4 hours. On reaching Myarabeau found letters from Com. L. at Mt. Watti, also from Irumu. Bad luck to hear one of our donkeys has been badly wounded by one of the six tame pig. In revenge they have slain the whole lot and given the soldiers a feast. Also hear the Mambutti are all up in arms on the road we had intended going; wounded several soldiers, killed 17 porters and looted the caravans. Expedition gone out against them. I mounted Bartie on donkey as he has got all his big toenail torn off - poor little chap - he looked so comical and no doubt the first one ever to ride one. Too funny how

frightened even all the porters and natives are of a donkey. As for the Pygmies, yesterday, during our farewell dance, my solitary meek and mild Gertie happened to walk through the crowd, which fled in all directions. One poor fat lady happened to fly round a corner which the donkey was going for, and when she saw it after her dropped on her knees and held up her hands, quite expecting her last hour had come. It is just as well we are moving out, as this rising may spread all along. So far they have all treated us splendidly. Expect to pick up a lot of curios here tonight as I am waiting for a big dance on the return of the Mambutti hunters; also perhaps take in one or two to Irumu, though I think we have enough now for our purposes. Take my finger out of splints now for an hour or two but it is by no means right; fear the sinew being broken means a permanent injury. Only unpleasant experience at dusk - a Pygmy on the warpath. Hunters brought in a tiny little anteater, only about 8 inches long. Eighteen more porters arrived to take me in. Had my last Pygmy reception and dance.

1 Water-hog.

Saturday, March 11th, 1905.

Up before 3 and had just got all loads out and fires lighted on both banks of the river to get over our things, when it started to rain and thunder. I had to move things under shelter again and wait till it cleared. I got well away and after 2 hours of forest got into open country and quite clear from any more pugnacious Pygmies. If they had intended mischief we evidently moved too early. Sun got very hot before I got in to Irumu. Busy repacking and took some photos of distributing food. Found it was my best black donkey that the pig had cut open just where the girths go. Hear the Mambutti have had a great kick-up on the Miawambi road, and Lt. Siffler had gone off with 40 soldiers to punish them. There are two wonderful old chiefs here - typical Mambutti, regular ruffians to look at. I want to take one to England. - We have several in here now to choose from - 3 or 4 ladies. Dined with Chef de poste. Hoped letters might have arrived, though hardly time.

5.30 - 11.25 = 6. 18 Miles.

2 Okapi.

1 Congo Buffalo.

Sunday, March 12th, 1905.

Busy day. Took several photographs. Packed all skins; dressed and beat the two okapi skins. I left a watch for Lt. Siffler and gave the others two knives, also a donkey. Had a great farewell dinner.

Monday, March 13th, 1905.

Up at 4.30 and started with 23 porters at 6 o'clock. Marched till 11 and lunched at Billibe, waiting for our other 18 porters to follow with rest of baggage. They came in and we got away at 3; struck Cocke at 6. Away at 7 and reached Kikuma at 9. Hard day's march for our little friends, but luckily no sun. However, I used all the donkeys, mounting the fat lady on mine, so I only got one hour's ride out of 10 ½. The Pygmies look very quaint riding, but really sit very well. I have two men along to look after them who can talk their lingo. Passed through such a pretty country all day. Had 25 bunches of bananas brought as a present, but quite impossible to carry them along.

6 - 11 o'clock = 5 - 14 )

3 – 6 “ = 3 - 9 ) = 28 Miles.

7 – 9 “ = 2 - 5 )

Tuesday, March 14th, 1905.

Felt awfully tired after one's long walk of over 9 hours yesterday. Up at 4 and away at 5 o'clock. Took several photos en route as we passed through the Walende people whose ladies all wear the huge wood chunk in upper lip. We stopped for lunch at Demarino; had a sleep as I felt utterly done in hot sun, and obliged to use our donkeys for the Pygmies. Away at 3 till 7 when we slept at Loei. One of the ladies got fever. I was clean done and drank some sour milk!!

5 - 10 = 5 14

3 - 7 = 4 10

24 miles

Wednesday, March 15th, 1905.

Up at 4 and off at 5. Passed Boku and lunched at Kalu at 11 o'clock. Mounted all our 11 ttle people on the donkeys and some of them now ride very well and like it. We got lots of milk all along but could not buy any goats. The Pygmies are much delighted to see natives fly when they see our donkeys coming along. We had to supply two with our own terai hats as they cannot stand the sun. One of the women had a touch of fever last night. Charming people, and all porters seem perfectly happy and contented.

5 - 11 = 5 - 13 Miles

2 - 5 = 3 - 9 Miles

22 miles

Thursday, March 16th, 1905.

Had a good early start and did 5 ½ hours in morning and 2 ½ in afternoon. I felt awfully bad all day and could not manage any food. Think I had got a touch of sun and chill. Slept at Mongallula, just at the foot of the hill. Splendid day for travelling - hardly any sun.

4.30 - 10 = 5 ½

3.30 - 5.30 = 2

7 ½ = 23 Miles.

Friday, March 17th, 1905.

Put clock an hour late by mistake; however, got off at 5.30 and reached Boke at 10. No sun so good travelling. After two hours started away again; had to carry two of the women in litters as they had fever. Just came in for a slight shower of rain as we got into Mahaji. Very disappointed to find no letters. Cannot imagine where they are delayed; also to find our letters about iron boat only arrived here a day ahead. Have sent down to Lake to see if we can hire 3 perokes to take us and the Pygmies down by water.

5.30 - 10 = 4 ½ - 14

1.0 - 4.30 = 4 ½ - 15

29 miles

Saturday, March 18th, 1905.

Started 19 loads off by road to Waddai. Found my donkey been tied up by bridle all night. Got the

Commandant to give Wyndiar the boy 25 chicote; perfectly hopeless anything else. Hearing no news of the iron boat we packed up and started away at 4 with 20 porters. Carried two of the Mambutti in hammocks. Beautiful night. At 8 o'clock we halted at our old kraal, sleeping on the footpath, and found all our morning baggage piled there, the porters having gone. We sent out all round to bring in more and chief promised to have them in. Heard them strolling in all night. We kept sentries on all night in case any of ours went. Pygmies go splendidly and are all as happy as crickets. They can hardly realize they are soon to have more new clothes and blankets.

1 Hartbeest.

1 Duiker.

Wrote Lt. Demuenynek, Chef de Secteur.

Sunday, March 19th, 1905.

I had a bad night - no sleep. Up at 4 and lots of porters. Big woman seems worse - pain in back; again in hammock. Had one hour rough rocks, rest splendid going. Did our 7 hours off at a stretch, striking the Nile again; had a splendid cool march - no sun. Camped in small kraal. Thunder going on all round, but we have missed it all - wonderful luck. Saw lots of

elephant and buffalo spoor. To our joy a courier came in with our English mail - such a treat. Lots of letters and papers. Found the iron boat up here; they recalled it this morning, so we are nearly at the end of our worries. I am much afraid one of our ladies is going to have measles, a rash having come out. Such bad luck as I must leave her behind. We have isolated her and shall give all a good wash with carbolic soap. Housed all our porters in a kraal for fear they should run away.

Letters from: Kate, Mary, Gertie, Ada, Willie Stewart,

Cp. Wackey, E. Banks, Iris.

Monday, March 20th, 1905.

Up at 4 and away at 5. Carried two women again in hammocks. Very hot all the march. Pushed along and got in at 10.30. Found our friend in charge. Got us plenty of boats and perokes. Grey donkey still lame, alas. Sent cable to our Waddai; got sugar and clothing for Pygmies. Attended soldier's funeral - died of sleeping sickness. Found a case of curios from Lugari country from Cp. Landyher; also had some given by my host here. Awfully hot here on the Nile and plenty of mosquitoes.

5 - 10 = 5 = 15 miles.

Tuesday, March 21st, 1905.

Got all our baggage stowed on iron boat and 5 leaking perokes, and left at 7 a.m. Our boat was pretty full up with a donkey, 2 goat, 6 Mambutti and 6 of ourselves with 6 rowers. Thunderstorms going on all day but with our usual luck we missed them. Moved on all day and only stopped at 10.30 at night. We reached Ese and had only about 3 miserable hours on shore among mosquitoes and threatenings of rain.

Peroke. 7 a.m. till 10.30 p.m.

Wednesday, March 22nd, 1905.

Off at 5 and except landing for one hour to cook we moved along the whole day. Stopped at night 11.30 on the side of river for a few hours sleep. More storms going on all round.

Peroke. 6 a.m. till 11.30 p.m.

Thursday, March 23rd, 1905.

Away before daylight and rowed and sailed all day, reaching Dufile at 4.30 in afternoon. Found my mail gone by road so never get it now. No porters in. Cp. Landyher gone to Lado. Cp. Cherio here. All our baggage wet in perokes.

Peroke. 4.30 a.m. till 4.30 p.m.

Friday, March 24th, 1905.

Had a day to rest and wait for porters. Started Mohamed off with the donkey and Pygmies in afternoon, so that we could push on quicker. Cp. Zenio very kind to us. 55 porters came in about 9 p.m.

Saturday, March 25th, 1905.

Away at 2.30 a.m. and reached old Dufile at 7.15. Had breakfast and did 2 hours more. Heat terrific, so laid up in a kraal till 3 when we did 4 hours and then camped on the footpath close to the Nile. Thunder all round but escaped with a few drops of rain. Did 28 miles - well tired.

a.m. 2.30 - 7.15 = 4¾

9 - 11 = 2

3 - 7 = 4

10¾ 28 miles

Sunday, March 26th, 1905.

Away at 2.30 again and did 6 hours. Passed Cotton's camp. Shot hippo on march. Lots about. Pulled up at Malebar Malibe river for lunch. So hot we could not move again till afternoon. Slept out on footpath after 4 hours.

a.m. 2.30 - 6.30 = 4

1 Hippo 7.15 - 9.15 = 2

3 - 7 = 4 30 miles

Monday, March 27th, 1905.

I left camp at 1 a.m. Reached Kaya at 6.15. Porters came in at 8. Found iron boat awaiting us, so at 10 we sailed and in 6 hours reached Redjaf. Had a mile to walk round rapids. Slept on steamer which was waiting for us.

6 Hours Peroke.

Tuesday, March 28th, 1905.

We left Redjaf in iron boat after breakfast, and in 2½ hours reached Gondokoro where we lunched with Spire. Did not see Tufnell. The steamer brought all our baggage and people direct to Lado. We captured a peroke on our voyage which was raiding the Belgian island garden. Boat was full of banana and maniok. We handed it over to the Gondokoro officials. We reached Lado about 5 o'clock and found a large party there, Com. Gen. Wacquez, Cp. Landyhen, Baron de Reinett. We slept at Com. Canito's house and I fed with the General.

Wednesday, March 29th, 1905.

Were much disappointed on seeing a steamer coming in to find it was not the Dal but an extra S.D. boat. Busy all day packing and sorting things out. Hamum and 4 other assistents (Joll) came in from prospecting. No mosquitoes. My donkey arrived safely by road.

Thursday, March 30th, 1905.

Waited round all day hoping for news of our steamer. The Sudan D. boat returned but not ours.

Wrote: Lt. Demuenyneck and Christie.

Letters: Mary 3, Lady Glover, Hilda Willoughby.

Friday, March 31st, 1905.

Dal turned up; been 2 days on sandbank. Went up to Gondokoro; back in morning.