Diary Page

March 1908

Sunday, 1st March, 1908.

Poured again in torrents. Fearful hurricane nearly blew the whole roof of leaves off. Water ran through everywhere. My ankle bad so been resting it, also the fatigue of the night before when lost and getting a chill in getting up at night to take Osborne's temperature gave me a touch of fever - 101); just enough not to enjoy meals. Osborne not had a good day - 103. Decided to move off in morning and reach higher ground.

Monday, 2nd March, 1908.

Did not feel at all well, temperature 102. Rested a bit in morning before packing. Osborne a little better. Had awful trouble with Lambourie and the whole crowd. When time for starting at 2 o'clock son came and made excuses that he could not get us porters to go through the forest, so getting disgusted with the whole crowd I ordered him to have six porters at and decided to return to Irumu. We got off and reached Gombiani at dark. Slept there. Osborne stood journey well, temperature normal.

6 miles.

Tuesday, March 3rd, 1908.

Up at 5.30 and started for Irumu. Got there at ten. Found all our friends there except Lt. Boyton. Osborne still going on well. I am only very so-so. Found Lambourie just leaving for Kifuku; never felt so glad to leave any crowd before, as all his tribe are liars and thieves, Fed at home; did not feel up to going to mess. Osborne normal - doing well.

Papers to Jan.10th & Jan 17th.

Letters:

Yorkshire Bank,

George,

Lady Glover,

Phyllis.

10 miles - 3 ¼ hours.

Wednesday, March 4th, 1908.

Wishing to get a move I got ten porters in at 2 o'clock, and having got a good machela rigged up we bid goodbye to our kind friends and left at 4 o'clock. Landed up at 7.15 at our old camp; slept out, fine night. I still feel very badly, but Osborne is going on well. A donkey is a painful mode of travel when one is not feeling one's best.

10 miles - 3 ¼ hours.

Thursday, 5th March, 1908.

Up at 5.30. Did four hours and avoiding the big 3,000 ft. hill at Chumba skirted along its base; camped in a woody dell; got lots of chikoula; 2 chickens and eggs; lovely day; Osborne on ordinary fare.

11 miles - 4 hours.

Friday, 6th March, 1908.

Having only three and a half hours trek to Bilyano we did not move till 6.30 and were into camp about ten. Much better road than our original one and only twenty minutes longer. Intend sending some of our Irumu porters back; paid off four. Osborne has broken up machela also. D. Rokie paid us a visit in the evening and persuaded us to come past his place and stay a day to visit the camp of Com. Bastien.

10 miles - 3¾ hours.

Saturday, 7th March, 1908.

Moved away at 6.30 and a short two hours brought us to Matega. After camping Rockie lent me his horse to ride over. I found Com. Bastien very 111. Lt. Welber and old Lado friend was out but returned my visit later in the day. Osborne has decided to stay out here and join Rokie in business so return from Toro. Mongongu will therefore settle here.

6 miles - 2 hours.

Sunday, 8th March, 1908.

Left three loads of stuff in case I return - busy repacking. Have now reduced our loads to our own porters carrying capabilities.

Mr. Rokie lent me his horse as far as the Semiliki. Said goodbye to Mongongu and left at 1 o'clock, and after four hours we passed through Kilyano and crossed the river; climbed the hill and camped on the top. Gave boys rice but plenty of Indian corn came in.

12 miles - 4 hours.

Monday, 9th March, 1908.

Up at 3.45 and away in the dark at 4.30; just missed a furious thunderstorm. Passed Col. Bright's observation camp; crossed the Semiliki; climbed the mountain and reached Mondeva about 10.30. Found two Australians camped here - prospecting. At night a German doctor belonging to the Duke of Mechlenberg also came in to sleep. High wind and looks like a good storm. Food came in again to our surprise.

18 miles - 5 hours.

Tuesday, 10th March, 1908.

Left at daylight; had a hot march; stayed two hours at Busaigu for chickoula and got into Toro about 3.30. Mr. Haldane very kindly let me camp in his garden and I am staying with him. Had a dinner party of eight at his house at night.

18 miles - 6 ¼ hours.

Wednesday, 11th March, 1908.

Busy repacking all morning. Sold a Mauser to Corp. Jones who is with Col. Bright. Paid all boys 3 rupees each. Mail came in but nothing for me, expect letters are stopped at Entebbe. About got all packed for a start.

Wrote:

Lady Glover,

Mrs. Lichfield,

Bertie Smith.

Thursday, 12th March, 1908.

Colonel Bright came in at lunch time; glad to meet him at last. Settled up for ivory, donkey and letters. Osborne left at 4 o'clock and I had tea with Haldane and then moved off at 4.15, reaching Mohombu at 6 o'clock, using the new road which has good rest houses. I sold my Mauser to L.Corp. Jones for £15. Advanced Osborne £7 towards his £25 and lent him 450 Gibbs rifle.

6 miles - 1¾ hours.

Friday, 13th March, 1908.

Up at four and moved off at five. Reached Makangwi and nice rest house on hill top - splendid view. Was in camp by 10.30 after meeting and spending half hour on road with Major McCaub who is going out to join Bright. He kindly gave me a route list of distances and food by the new road. Plenty of food - paid in soap.

13½ miles - 4 ¼ hours.

Saturday, 14th March, 1908.

Rather late in starting; got away at 5.30. Did four hours, splendid road, stopped at Malengi. Terrible place as all the rest house is gone except a big one-sided roofed shed under which I spent the hot afternoon hours. Chief came up with present of eating bananas; we also got plenty of chickoola and eggs. Had storms all round and got a fair shower which caused me to postpone dinner as the straw roof was wanting.

Carried over (19½ miles 6 hours)

12 miles - 4 hours.

Sunday, 15th March, 1908.

Off away at 5.30 again; good road. Met a great lot of Congo porters. Osmaui ill again; came in late and seems better towards evening. Camping at Matidi; fairly nice rest house and got plenty of eggs, chicken and chickoola - paid in shells. We passed Kakoura about midway - 1 ½ hours from here and two from Malengi. Anyone making two days' trek of these three would sleep there. Had heavy rain at 1 till 3, violent thunderstorms. Found a tick here and last camp which boys say is the one!

12 miles - 3½ hours

Monday, 16th March, 1908.

Had lots of rain and thunder all afternoon. Started at 5 o'clock and found we had a very short trek of only 23 hours. A young missionary came in about midday and camped close by in the gardens. Came up and had tea with me and told me lots of interesting things about the country. Said the native villages were becoming de populated owing to the ravages of elephant and wild pig. He gave me some sheep meat and milk. This camp is called Korvrumbi. Got food and good water.

(carried over 43½ miles 13½ hours)

Letter to:

Alys,

Mary,

Bertie Smith. 8 ½ miles - 2 ½ hours.

Cards to:

Lady Orford,

Bertie Stern,

Lady Mowbray

J. Carvey,

Mr. Preston,

Wills. B. Fowler,

Tuesday, 17th March, 1908.

Up at four and had a good long trek to camp called Kichuma; did 5 ¼ hours; road very good but one bit not yet levelled. We are now taking the new road so it's all fresh going. Left the old one which is very hilly and nearly grown up about one hour back. Have quite a stock of poultry on hand - 5. Food rather scarce; had to dole out half rations of rice.

16 miles - 5 ¼ hours.

Wednesday, 18th March, 1908.

Got an early start - away at 4.10; glorious moon so good going. Did five hours and camped at a place called Kybelinga. Fine rest house on hill top but the most awful place for fleas and jiggers - millions all over the light sandy hill. I had to rush out of the rest house - quite covered; then after pitching tent found it just as bad. Had rain all the afternoon with thunder all round. About 4 o'clock it ceased and I then got some fresh ground cleared and repitched my tent right down the hill - quite the worst experience I have had. Plenty of food but eggs returned!

(Carried over 68 miles 21¼ hours)

16 miles - 5 hours.

Thursday, 19th March, 1908.

Up early again - no moon like rain. Away at 4.45. Just took us four hours - rain made going very bad. Dropped down into low country; passed the other side of Governor's hill station - Mobongi. Camped at Kagome - rest house swarming with jiggers so spent day in tent. Thunder and rain all afternoon. Heaps of food - eggs again useless!

13 miles - 4 hours.

Friday, 20th March, 1908.

Had a lot of rain and thunder all night. Sentries went to sleep so were not off till 5 o'clock. Did four hours good and reached a charming rest house Wakago - good in every way; no horrible beasts! Had no rain here. Just pass out of Ungoro into Uganda outside here. Splendid level road, but a bit soft, especially as natives are busy clearing it. Quite a tiny rest house, but very nice and clean; think the Governor must have been along, as the whole place was grass strewn and decorated. Excellent sultana, eggs, chicken, heaps of food.

(Carried over 97 miles 30¼ hours)

15 miles - 4¼ hours.

Saturday, 21st March, 1908.

Up at 3 o'clock having a longish march of five hours. Passed nice rest house (Luowna) 6 miles and 1 ½ hours from Wakago; not many people there though - excellent road and good going as no rain this way so far. Thunder and rain seems to travel along with us, as we had an awful storm here 2 till 4. Hurricane nearly blow roof off. Camped at Kakasengulla or Katugo, near Nimbi river.

18 miles - 5 hours.

Sunday, 22nd March, 1908.

Up at 3 a.m. and off before 4. Passed Jungora 11 miles 2.50 m. from starting, seemed a nice rest house, just before we came in full view of the Lake. I took a short cut by the old road which proved the longest and only got in just with all the porters by the new road. Should only have taken 5 hours en route. We are camped again here at Basimbe where the old and new roads converge. Had no rain here lately. Fired a rickshaw off down to Toro to bring out the wounded German. Plenty of people round here - feel quite back in the world; porters living in luxury, as they are eating up the rice as well as their full rations. Chief brought in plenty of food; find all these rest houses have too many inhabitants even in daytime!!

(Carried over 130 miles 39½ hours)

20 miles - 6 hours.

Monday, 23rd March, 1908.

Away at 3.40 passed Versuverie at 11 hours, Basugo 1 ¾ hours from it and slept at Quatamballa. Hot march of five hours; heaps of food, fairly clean rest house; Osmaui ill again. Slept out in open and had a splendid night. Lots of food but eggs bad.

16 ½ miles - 5 hours.

Tuesday, 24th March, 1908.

Away at 4 a.m. Osmaui and Nimpara both on the sick list. Passed Umballa at 2 ½ hours or 9 ½ miles. Waited here a bit as heavy thunder was going on all round, but no rain fell; lightning fine all the march. Left the main road for Kampala and Entebbe at Umballa, taking the shorter road for the ferry. Two hours brought us to our camp, Buweia (or Gundua) 7 miles. Here no rest house so put up fly; luckily cloudy most of the day. Got some good eggs and plenty of food for boys - rice extra.

(Carried over 166½ miles 50½ hours)

16 ½ miles - 4 ½ hours.

Wednesday, 25th March, 1908.

Away at 4 o'clock; found there was a rest house only a bit further on. Did 13 hours to the Lake; had two journeys over as I went back for donkey. Paid two and a half rupees - only twenty minutes across. Took a lot of photographs. About forty-five minutes took us into Entebbe. Staying with Mr. A.E. Bertie Smith; jolly house near the Lake. Paid off all the porters at 11 o'clock. Called on H.E, and Mr. G. Wilson. Major Morris is staying here, down with tick fever - fifth attack. Found over twenty letters and a dozen newspapers.

6 miles to Lake

3 miles to Entebbe - 2 hours.

92 miles 57 hours