Diary Page
May 1900
Tuesday, May 1st, 1900.
Slight rain at a 5 a.m. delayed us starting till 7.30; camped at 1.30 - came down hill all the way. Saw Baringo in distance - lovely country but no game. Started raining at lunch and looks bad. Three hunting Galla joined us. During the night we had a regular pour-down – afraid the beginning of the rains.
12th Camp from Rudolph: Altitude 7000.
15 miles. 7.30 - 1.30
Wednesday, May 2nd, 1900.
Rain made us unable to start till 1.30 – moved camp till 4.30. Ghee and Bill went Eland hunting and we picked Bill up en route. Unfortunately Ghee had a night out, raining in torrents, only getting into camp at 10 a.m. next day. I shot a new small buck.
13th Camp from Rudolph.
8 miles. 1.30 – 4.30
Thursday, May 3rd, 1990.
Waited for Ghee coming in and camel mats drying, so made a start at 11.30 till 4.30. Some bad road and did not get much more forward in a direct line. Heavy storms all round but most of them, luckily, missed us; set in steady rain on reaching camp. While unloading we heard lion grunting, so out we all went - after half a mile we stood under a thorn to listen for them. Suddenly about 350 yards in front we saw a huge head raised up above grass top and then I saw a second 50 yards to the right. As they seemed coming our way, we waited some time, then started to stalk them - when within 40 yards up 5 lion jumped - we all fired and one fell - then we fired and wounded a huge beast as he ran away. Being just dark and raining made it impossible to track him up - very bad luck. However, on return to camp, we got into dry clothes and drank a bottle of champagne.
14th Camp from Rudolph
9 miles. 11.30 - 4.30
Friday, May 4th, 1900.
Everything wet so waited till 11 before we started. Dressed lion skin and cut out bullets from body, all three turning out to be from my Gibbs rifle. After going two hours we found our guide had lost himself or else was fooling us;
our boys thought the latter, as they tied him up and gave him a thrashing; he having led us clean away from Baringo - we at once altered our course from East to west - rather a change!! Bill shot an Eland and a new Gazelle to us. I killed 2 oryx and a small antelope - also tried at rhino in open country at 150 yards too far - only wounded one.Had a deep narrow stream to cross - a taste of what a few days rain means – very lucky though, as storms were all round us again.
15th camp from Rudolph. Altitude 6200.
Saturday, May 5th, 1900.
Ghee and Bill went hunting - Bill wounded 2 Rhino and broke the trigger of my heavy rifle - cracked before by lion. I stayed in camp drying my lion skin. Moved at 1 till 6.30. All along a level ridge-no trees - saw 7. Rhino - I stalked and nearly killed one with the one barrel and only one solid cartridge.
16th Camp from Rudolph.
18 miles. 1 – 6.30
Sunday, May 6th, 1900.
Started at 545 till 10.45. Spent half an hour getting over a bad soft river. I shot 3 Ostrich. Saw Mt. Keina some 90 miles off. After lunch we started again at 2.30 going till 6.15 at a tremendous pace. Got on to Delamere's route and found trees all cut and good path. Baringo is only two days ahead. Struck a large village, so once more in civilization.
17th camp from Rudolph.
11 miles. 5.45 - 10.45.
10 miles. 2.30 – 6.15
Monday, May 7th, 1900.
Up at 4 away at 5.45 till 10.15. Had our own road to cut through thick bush and long grass horribly wet. Came across 4 Rhino on our path, which I was forced to squander, wounded one badly but had no time to follow him. After lunch moved 1.45 to 5.45. Just after loading had a heavy drenching, which made our going slow. After climbing up a high mountain we had our first sight of Baringo - looked so pretty laid in a deep hollow some 3,000 ft. below us. We now started our climb down of some 4.000 ft. As we sent along the hill side 1 shot a new bush buck with a dark brown ring round his neck, also two grey antelope high up on the hillside. Just after camping we had a terrible storm.
16th Camp from Rudolph. Altitude on hill 6600.
10 miles. 5.45 - 10 .15.
9 miles. 1.45 - 5.45.
Tuesday, May 8th, 1900.
Wet mats delayed us starting till 11.45 when we started our long climb down hill; being wet made it worse, still we got down with only a few camels down and nothing any worse. Met a native out hunting, who guided us. Camped at 4.45 on top of another ridge from which we have a good view of Chimone. Ghee shot an Alicoot and Grey J. J.H. Antelope. Rain again in the evening.
19th Camp from Rudolph. Altitude 4700.
7 miles 11.45 – 4.45.
Wednesday, May 9th, 1900.
Up at 4.45 away at 6.30- Had a long climb down hill, till we at last got down to the level plain of Baringo. Met two more natives, who were most pleased to see us and talked much about Delamere. We had three bad and deep rivers to cross, giving us a lot of bother with our camel. Passed one village and camped on the outskirts of a second large village. Here we found a Swahili trader who told us the unwelcome news that the railway was still at Nipibasha, about six days from Chimoni. Took photos of all the camel boys besides several of camel crossing rivers. Threw away all our unused cartridges besides spare beads and trade goods.
Camp on Baringo. Altitude 3300 "Nyems"
10 miles. 6.30 - 11.30.
Thursday, May 10th, 1900.
Up at 6 away at 6.15 till 12. Good flat road - had to re-cross both rivers; big one had fallen 15 inches and the second we had made a fine bridge over. Stopped off for lunch and then moved from 3 to 5. 30. I shot a female Antelope like Last new one. Our Swahili friend came along with us as guide. Country all covered with long green grass and heaps of water. Hardly any game now.
1st Camp at Baringo.
13 miles. 6.30 - 12.
7 miles. 3 – 5.30
Friday, May 11th, 1900.
Started at 6.15 moved till 11.15 when our guide pointed out Chimone a long way out of our road to the railway, so we changed our course and moved straight across country to cut the old trade route. On the way I killed an old Rhino, who came across our caravan. After lunch we moved at [Blank] till [Blank] doing some distance along the high road, which was splendid going; telephone wires along to Uganda. Passed three Rhino close to our track - one of which I had to move.
1st Camp on High road. Elmolo.
Saturday, May 12th, 1900.
Up at 2.30 away at 3.45 went till 11.30. Splendid road, did our record single march of 23 miles - stopped off to lunch on Lake. Came across gangs of coolies making line, also Wilson and two ladies going up to Uganda. Found a contractor called Wallace camped by the way, who came down to lunch and bought Ghee's Pony and Moh. bay, also 22 donkies at 70 rupees each rather lucky for us. Here we heard first news about Transvaal. Moved at 7 till 11.45 and camped on low wet ground near telephone station. Found horse sickness very bad - numerous dead bodies round.
2nd Camp on Road.
23 miles. 3.45 - 11.30.
12 miles. 7 - 11.45.
Sunday, May 13th, 1900.
Called at 5 moved at 6.30 till 1.30; after lunch at 4.45 to 9; when we reached Navasha – here we found several English people connected with railway. Sold 2 ponies at £20 each and all our camel at 50 Rupees, much to our surprise.
Camp - Lake Naivasha.
16 miles. 6.30 – 1.30
11 miles. 4.45 – 9.00.
Monday, May 14th, 1900.
Waited all day, so as to overhaul stores and sundry articles we did not want, — Mr. Walsh and McAlistair buying all. Started in the evening at 7.30 till 12.15 - lovely night.
12 miles. 7.30 – 12.15pm
Tuesday, 15th May, 1900.
Up at 5 and away on our last trek at 6.30 till 10.30. We passed the large camp of railway, then climbed up the high escarpment 7500 at top, down which they have made a temporary tramway costing £200,000 - complete waste. On reaching the top and station rail-head we got all our loads weighed and packed in van, our boys in open trucks and ourselves in the baggage carriage. Being only a goods train we reached Nairobi (30 miles) at 6.30 after 3 ½ hours journey. Went over with our cots and got dinner at Mr. G. Stewart’s.
9 miles. 6.30 – 10.30
Wednesday, May 16th, 1900.
Spent all day round the town making preparations for a start by train following day. Mohamed had his purse stolen in native market place when out with me.
Thursday, May 17th, 1900.
Got all our boys on board the train - a van load of luggage. Charges are awful, but cannot be helped. Started at 4 p.m. Shunted into a siding for the night.
Friday, May 18th, 1900.
Travelling all day – passed two big wash-outs. Grand view of Kilimanjaro. Lunched at 5.30!!
Saturday, May 19th, 1900.
Reached Mombasa at 10.30. Mr, Stewart met us and put us up at Club. Plague at Aden, so had to ship to India at midnight by the B.I. boat "India". Got our boys all on board another steamer going to Aden. Left all our trophies to be packed and forwarded later by German Line.