Diary Page

November 1899

Sunday, November 5th, 1899.

Arrived at Aden on Victoria at 9.50 Sunday evening; found Jama Said, our 2nd man, on board with a flowery letter as to all arrangements at Zeila being completed. Cowasjee Dinshaw also met us with a letter from Cp. Harrington, saying if I sailed by "Woodcock" that night I should catch him at Zeilah. After much discussion we went to steamer agents and by an extra payment of 450 Rupees we arranged for small steamer to put off her sailing for 20 hours. Adjourning to the Hotel Europe we found all the establishment awaiting us, though it was past 2 a.m.

Monday, November 6th, 1899.

With a real busy day before us we were all up and doing by 5. 30. Ghee and I drove up to see General Creagh, then to Cp. Cartwright to get leave for drawing 35 rifles and 4,500 rounds of ammunition for our escort; this delayed us some hours. Then we had to clear our baggage, visit the bazaar to purchase iron wire, tobacco, Americans for trading purposes. We paid a visit to the Tanks, and

after an early meal at hotel started shipping all our stores and baggage on board the "Woodcock". We delayed the sailing two hours as we were obliged to let Clarke get an observation. Aden being a fixed point it was most important for our future survey that we should secure an observation. Of course, all being fresh and especially in a hurry everything went wrong; however, in the end we got what we wanted, viz: fixing the star, after which we hurried aboard. We only managed to get trestles on the after deck - so close together looked like corpses laid out. We took along with us 11 men we had interviewed, and with whom we were to settle wages. A strong wind kept us fairly cool, though the sea rose as the night progressed.

Tuesday, November 7th, 1899.

Just before breakfast we ran into a squall with rain, so the Skipper turned out of his course, bringing us head on to the seas just at 9 o'clock as breakfast was laid on deck. The pitching had already made one mighty hunter, P.C., go to the side and watch the seas

roll by; added to this a strong smell of onions made none of the party anxious for food, so we postponed the meal till 10 o'clock, by which time we had reached smoother water and saw the town of Zeila ahead. In less than half an hour we were surrounded by Arab Shows, two containing our head man and some of our boys. After the usual amount of shrieking we got away with a boat load of small baggage and were lucky to get the tide which enabled us to run alongside what they call a pier. On landing we were escorted by a motley collection of Zeila inhabitants to the old residency which had been taken for us. The name sounded fine, but on entering one stared; the bottom floor had evidently been used as a stable, while to try and walk down the passage and upstairs in the dark meant a broken head. After a good cleaning out the second floor presented a more pleasing outlook. The banqueting hall was fitted up for Bill and Ghee — the farther end for our dining table. The other rooms and passages were allotted to the rest of the party and packing cases. After a hurried meal

we started the awful business of unpacking goods so as to get all the things sorted out into proper loads. About 6.30 P. C. and I went up to the Residency and called on Lt. Harold with whom H. Harrington and Band were staying for a few days. Returning to a rather scratch meal, and having taken more observations, we all retired to try our new cots, which all voted a success.

Wednesday, November 8th, 1899.

Up at 5.30; after a night with only one disturbance, consisting of a heavy thunderstorm and pouring rain, quite an unusual occurrence here. We had to jump out of bed to shut up the shutters, the openings having no glass. Just after settling down again we were aroused by wild yells from the next room; quite thinking the room was being looted by niggers it turned out only to be Ghee, who has a habit of getting out of bed and re-acting the day's performance. Another hard day's work. P. C. and I started at 10.30 to engage our men. After 5 hours we found we had dismissed our head man as incompetent, and only

secured one cook and he very dissatisfied. By some artful ruses, in pretending to dispatch a letter to the boat about to sail for Berbera in which we caused it to be known, we were sending for all our hunters and servants; this was too much for the worthy gentlemen who had been opening their mouths to fabulous prices. In one hour we were besieged by men, all clamouring to come along, so we shortly procured all the men we wanted. Our retinue consists at present as follows:

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With these men we were quite satisfied as they included many who had travelled all over. Towards evening P. C. and I again went to call on Harrington who kindly gave us all the instructions as to our proposed route. Coming back we found Bill and Ghee had gone out for a walk and got lost in the native village.

Thursday, November 9th, 1899.

P.C. and I started out after an early breakfast to visit the camels which were about 7 miles out under care of our men armed with rifles. We rode the 3 ponies so as to see what our mounts were like, a fourth one as yet not being forthcoming, a mule only being found for which a prohibitive price was asked. After a parade of the 60 camels we agreed they were a useful lot.

On the way back I fired my first shot, killing a fine specimen of the Egyptian Vulture, while further on I delighted a huge crowd of natives by killing a right and left at hawks. All our day as usual was spent in opening cases, repacking loads, checking lists, seeing to water barrels, arranging for over 6,000 lbs of rice. Having so much food to carry owing to the serious drought and famine in Abyssinia, we have arranged to hire a lot of extra camels to carry us to Gildessa - Night was again enlivened by Ghee hunting in his sleep.

Friday, November 10th, 1899.

Up at daylight, and at last seem to be getting things somewhat squared up. During the morning we took up our whole retinue, a motley crowd, to Lt. C. J. Harold, who was kind enough to see each man and order out several we wanted rid of, filling up their places with men more likely to be useful and not leave us in the lurch when food runs low. We despatched a boy to Jibuti tonight in hopes of purchasing a fourth pony. Just before supper Mohamed conducted a personally

conducted party round the town. We took a few photos, stampeding many, especially the ladies, whenever we levelled our camera at them. We visited several kraals in hopes of buying spears, knives or other curios. I then went over to settle the customs and found a most polite and agreeable official, who presented me with the latest Jibuti local French paper, in which the chief news was that England had no more soldiers to send to Africa, nor any men left to man the fleet; that the Sirdar had also run away from the Kalifa. Ghee and Bill took a tour along the shore and picked me up a bird or two. Zeila is a quaint old place - a few whitewashed houses, straggling on the coast line, backed up by native kraals, behind which is the market where hundreds of camels are grouped; beyond this nothing but a vast stretch of sand for miles.

Saturday, November 11th, 1899.

Another early and busy day sorting loads, swearing in boys, distributing rifles and ammunition to escort, going up to say farewell to Harrington, doing a round of the

native bazaar and market place - took up much of the day. We had a great time trying to photo the natives, the sight of the camera being a general stampede, especially among the ladies. Three or four birds only were added to the bag, being really too busy to shoot.

Sunday, November 12th, 1899.

As we intended starting midday it meant early rising - up at 5.30. After many hours working we about got all the loads made up about one o'clock when we all went up to lunch with C. J. Harold. On getting back found most of the camels loaded up and started. Left Mohamed behind to procure 5 more camels, also one boy who went to Jibuti to try and buy a fourth pony. We left (a motley crowd) at 4 and reached camp at 6.50; the whole way is quite flat, only some places green with a sort of rush called "Herum", which the camels eat though do not like. On the way out P.C. and I espied a jackal so I rode back, and getting some cartridges brought him to bag. Our first encampment was rather a muddle, things being rather mixed up.

Camp called Worobo.

Wrote: Mother, Hayes Saddler.

1 jackall

7 miles. 4 - 6.50.

Monday, November 13th, 1899.

All up at 5 o'clock; went off different ways hunting for aub and gazelle. After a long wander round over barren desert looking country called Manda, I had a long snap shot at an aub. Returning to camp at 9-45 I found P. C. already in. Shortly after Bill returned with a gazelle and Ghee with an aub. I photographed the game and camp which I christened by name of - Muddle Puddle Camp - really named Warobab. We got our water casks all filled up here to push on across the desert. On starting to pack camels we found some unable to pack loads at all, so we sent Mohamed back to Berbera with orders to buy 15 more camels, and then follow us on. We also sent back to buy Harold's pony. Getting away from camp at 2 o'clock we finally pulled up with tired camels after only some 6 miles, about 6 o'clock. On the way I shot a nice aub and photographed it before it dropped. P. C. came in late having also shot a couple of aub. We had a sharp shower of rain. Collected a few more birds, among others the crow which is local to the coast. There is hardly anything to eat for camel, not liking the juicy small leaf bush Herum; today we got into the broader leaf plant called Kular.

1 aub AEB

1 gazelle WW

2 aub PC

1 Aub 6 miles 2 - 5.30

Tuesday, November 14th, 1899.

Up at 5 and started away at 6 o'clock. Bill got an aub and Ghee a gazelle. I had a long walk for nothing. About 4 we all went out again, and while pursuing the first dik-dik I had seen suddenly saw two wart-hogs coming along. Getting hold of my Mauser I tumbled over a fine boar. Had then to ride into camp for a camel, and though dusk go out again in order to tie the rope round the pig, as none of the men will touch or Look at it. We then had a fine old job skinning the beast whole, P.C. and Perks helping after supper. Made us very late to bed, especially as we had to turn out at 2 a.m.

Wednesday, November 15th, 1899.

All up at 2 a.m. and started away at 3 sharp. Lovely fine moonlight night or rather morning. We rode by turns and watched the stars shooting. Passed through some desolate looking country and reached camp at 8.30; no water but what we carried with us. We camped just under a red stony coloured mountain called Duddarp. Bill got another gazelle; P. C. also got a

gazelle from camp which I photographed. Rather pretty on banks of a dry river fringed with a few green trees which the camels fed from. I shot 7 guinea fowl - a fresh kind. Went to bed early, all being about tired out. Ghee saw monkeys and hyaena, Bill three dik-dik.

11 miles. 3 - 8. 30.

1 gazelle PC

7 Guinea fowl JJH

1 hare JJH

Thursday, November 16th, 1899.

Called at 12 o'clock and started away at 2. Had a terribly monotonous trek, landing up at Hensau at 9.30, some 20 miles, having been two days without water except what we carried. On our road in P. C. shot 1 dik-dik and A. E. B. 2 dik-dik. During the afternoon a special post came in from Zeila with a letter from Hayes Saddler, our mail having gone on to After tea we all went out with shot guns and had a hare drive, killing 7. Sent water camels back, also Daniel who we feared would not stand the trip. Camp Heneau.

Wrote to: C. Dinshaw & Col. Saddler

20 miles - 2 a.m. - 9.30.

4 hares JJH

3 hares PC. EAB. WW

3 dik-dik EAB & PC

Friday, November 17th, 1899.

Called at 2 and started away at 3.10, Daniel leaving by one of our water camels. We travelled through mountain ranges all day, walking being bad owing to volcanic action. Lots of hyaena, also dik-dik about: P.C. shot 5, I shot two.

Went out to try and get a shot at gerenook but found them too alert. Much colder now, being up 1800 feet. We started losing camels here, Lasmaron, killing one - left one at Zeila, while a third is too sick to travel further. Took all our weights here - P. C. 169, Ghee 165, W.W. 172, J. J.H. 140, Perks 144, Clarke 151. I had a long turn out after gerenook but found them too shy, we are very heavily loaded and look forward to Mohamed's return with 15 more. We reached our camp on a dry river bank at 9. 35. Found water by scooping out a well in sand. Camp. Lasman.

18 Miles. 2 a.m. - 9.30.

6 dik-dik PC

Saturday, November 18th, 1899.

We left our camp at Sumader 3.10, a perfect moonlight night, walking and riding in turn, being quite cold. Just at sunrise we came into a green low-lying spot on the banks of a wide river, of course quite dry. The place was alive with dik-dik of which we shot three. We had to leave another sick camel on the road, making three since we started. Most of the men were busy washing clothes, of course within 6 feet of our drinking water. Ghee shot an owl on the way to camp and Bill secured a small wart-hog which, as usual, caused much commotion at being fetched into camp. I shot, a

large Egyptian vulture and Ghee a bustard. Nights are pretty cold as we have got up to an elevation of 3500 feet.

Camp - Somadu

2 dik-dik JJH

1 owl AEB

1 dik-dik WW

1 Boar WW 122lbs

1 large bustard AEB

12 Miles. 3. 10 a.m. – 9.50.

Sunday, November 19th, 1892.

We made another early start getting away at 4. We went on about 1 hour and then stayed behind to hunt a nullah said to hold lesser koodoo. I killed a big bustard and shortly after Bill and I met, when he fired at a lesser koodoo bull which came across a glade in front of me. I put a bullet right through shoulder and lungs; only going a few yards I fired again, breaking both forelegs terribly up which made the poor beast spring up into the air some feet and then drop on its nose, unluckily damaging the head skin very badly. Ghee got a gerenook; Bill got a couple and P.C. a couple. I saw a lot of pretty birds but was afraid to fire, lest we disturbed game, - camels. Reached a rather pretty place on bed of river at 8 o'clock, we all strolling in at intervals. We found here our first deep water well. Camp called Aramoni.

11 Miles. 4 - 8.

Nose to tail 68-79½ 1 Lesser Koodoo WW & JJH

Height 42¼ 1 Gerenook AEB

Girth 42 2 Gerenook WW

Horn 25 5/8 2 Gerenook PC

Girth 6 1/8 1 Bustard JJH

Spread 9½ 1 Dikdik JJH

11 miles - 4 - 8

Monday, November 20th, 1899.

Had breakfast at 5.15. I went off up the Nullah and climbed the hill ranges. We came across koodoo and wild donkey spoor. Some lovely scenery, rugged but desolate looking. After 6 hours up and down different hills we spied feeding down below 4 koodoo. After a careful stalk downhill I got to a rock about 200 yards distant, sitting quietly for some time watching them, till at last a fine buck walked out from under a tree and standing gave me a nice shot about 180 yards off. I caught him fair, but gave him a second barrel, breaking a hind leg. I then had a long shot at a second bull as he went away, wounding him slightly, but he went away over a high range, and being tired and all the other animals to skin we did not follow. My boys cooked me some fried meat and marrow bones. Got back to camp about 3.30. Busy boiling skulls and repacking cases, so as to get an empty tin case for birds of which we are beginning to get a fair number. Found Bill in camp with a lesser koodoo and gerenook. P. C. came in later with 4 Beira antelope and a gazelle. Ghee turned up at dark in middle of supper, having got 1 gerenook and 1 Beira, so we had a real good day among us and decided to stay another day.

1 Greater Koodoo Gibbs H 1 Bovid AEB

Girth 66 Horns 9 inc diam 1 Gerenook AEB

Height 55 width 1 Lesser Koodoo WW

Length 72 + 16 tail length 1 Gerenook WW

4 Beira PC

1 Gazelle PC

Tuesday, November 21st, 1899.

Found so much variety of game that being well out of the reserve we determined to stay another day. Started out in different directions. Ghee up my hill missed getting my wounded koodoo. Bill secured a pair of Beira gazelle. P. C. picked up a cow lesser koodoo. I got on track of a lesser koodoo bull at 6; after 6 hours stalking him step by step on his spoor we finally started him; I only saw his hind quarters disappearing behind a bush over 100 yards away, but having my Gibbs 450 I fired and found him lying dead 20 yards further on. Getting the pony up I got my photo and took some pictures. After skinning him whole we loaded up the pony and started our long trail to camp, heat being intense. Clarke took more observations and did a lot of useful work. I started writing a letter home while boys skinned koodoo.

Wednesday, November 22nd, 1899.

Called at 1.45 and had a heavy breakfast, as we intended hunting along the route while Cotton stayed back to hunt for lesser koodoo. I had wretched bad luck; ought to have bagged two lesser koodoo but they broke away without my getting a shot.

Our camp was prettily situated on a dry river with deep water wells; on the opposite bank the first Abyssinian fort - a curious looking little place half built up with loose stones, most of the roof long vanished, but a smart, white red white flag flying. While Ghee and I were manufacturing a new dish of rice and jelly mixed we suddenly spied the Commander of the fort approaching, accompanied by 5 men armed with rifles. I guessed what they were, so rushed over and got my camera and took them while they were being drawn up in line and firing volleys in our honour. Having shaken hands and talked through our headman, I gave the chieftain 2 dollars. After this a headman came bringing a sheep and milk as a present. After tea I went up stream again and shot a lynx and gerenook. We saw koodoo and a klipspringer on the road. I got several more photographs. Ghee had a rest having bruised his foot. I saw more birds than ever - many very pretty ones - the Hoopoe appearing several times. Bill shot a gerenook and P. G. a fox.

Camp called Biya Kaboba.

15 Miles. 3. 10 - 9 .25

Thursday, November 23rd, 1899.

Up at 2: had an early breakfast and left camp at 3.25. Left Ghee and P. C. behind to hunt for lesser koodoo but neither had any luck. We passed over a most uninteresting country, very flat with scrub and nothing but genenook. Reached a waterless camp at 10.50 under a blazing sun. Left another camel dying on the road, making the fourth since leaving Zeila. We had a beastly camp, swept by a high wind with sandstorms. I went out at 3 and found a bunch of oryx. Had a half mile stalk on hands and knees and then missed him - a very long shot - bad luck, being first I had seen. Camp called Geldab.

10 Miles. 5.25 - 10.50.

Friday, November 24th, 1899.

Up at 2.45 and were very late getting started. Camels got away at 3.30 and reached a pretty camping place on the river Dadab, which actually boasted a pool of water. Three of us stayed behind for daybreak so as to hunt along in hopes of seeing oryx. Ghee had a long shot and also saw ostrich. Started drilling our escort, then took their photographs. Bill shot two owl; I shot a bustard only.

12 Miles. 4.30 - 9.15

Saturday, November 25th, 1899.

Called at 2 and left at 3, doing 6 hours over very bad going. Had several men down sick. When passing over a volcanic mountain I wanted to shoot a bustard, but all the boys got terribly excited and said no one was allowed to shoot on the devil mountain or the devil would come and stone them, no doubt arising from the hill having been an old volcano. On the march a runner met me with a letter from Harrington about mules. We stopped about 9 in a pretty ravine beautifully shaded, where we wrote letters and I photographed my three companions laid asleep on the sand.

During breakfast I shot a fine specimen of the batteleur eagle, 70 inches across wings. The camels left again at 1.20 and reached Grassley at 5.20, a very pretty place.

We all left at 3 and rode in faster. The cook was still pretty bad - other invalids progressing. Sent runner back to Harrington. Camp called Grassley.

12 Miles. 3.00 – 9.00.

10 Miles. 1. 20 - 5. 20.

Sunday, November 26th, 1899.

Up at 2.45, away at 4. Country improving and greener looking. On the way I shot an enormous vulture sitting on a tree top overlooking the dry but wide river bed called Gildessa - Four hours brought us into the town which consisted of a collection of

native huts very prettily situated in a valley. Forming up some of our shikarees Ghee and I entered the town, having previously fired a salute of 4 rifles. All the population was out to greet and stare at the party whom Menelik had already notified the headman to treat with every kindness. We were delighted to find 4 good mules already awaiting us from Harrar. Further on all the swells of the village met us amid much handshaking and ceremony. We were then escorted to our camping ground where chickens, eggs and milk quickly appeared as presents. We were all busy as bees, when about 2 o'clock, having just sat down to a scratch meal of jam and bread, with a huge pot of rice pudding adorning centre of the table, the big man "Alto Zavike" appeared on a mule accompanied by his relations (male) and a numerous armed retinue. We hastily sent out to say sahibs were not quite ready, while we bolted down our food. His visit extended 1 hours while he partook of brandy and soda, his family drinking rum (bought in Aden to preserve specimens in). We showed him a magazine with an article about Menelik, giving his photo and others. This pleased the old man muchly,

and I got him to let me take his photo. On his departure we gave him a grand salute with blank cartridges. Directly after his departure a special messenger arrived from Harrar, two days' march, bringing us most welcome letters and papers for two mails. Then we had mules to try, arrange all about hiring camels, as we sent 12 back to Zeila. After supper I wrote 3 letters to Harrar, interviewed 2 of Welby's men and took on a guide. About 9.30 I started to develop photographs.

8 Miles. 4 - 8.10

Wrote: J. Baird, H. M. Consul Harrar.

Letters : 2 Mother, 2 Miss Elkington, Mrs. Erskine, George.

Monday, November 27th, 1899.

Developed photos until 2.30. All up at 6 o'clock. Busy shopping in morning – bought 6 donkeys, 4 goats, 375 lbs. of duarra. Had another visit from the Shune whom we gave a watch to. After arranging for hire of 18 camels to come along with Mohamed, we left a lot of loads behind to ease our camels. Took a lot of photos in the market place, also more of the Shune with plate camera. I had a bad day, not feeling at all up to the mark.

Tuesday, November 28th, 1899.

Got up at a decent hour. After breakfast the Shune again paid us a farewell visit. Afterwards we got all our loads sorted out and made a move at 1.45, doing about 3 hours. The Shune sent his soldiers along with us. Ghee got a dog as a present. We passed two running streams; first we had seen since starting. Country full of sheep and goats. Had our first new milk from our goats. Left another camel sick on the road. Camp called Odah.

Wrote: Mother, Miss Whitehouse, Burton and C. Dinshaw.

8 Miles. 1.45 – 4. 20.

Wednesday, November 29th, 1899.

Up at 3.45. During the night Ghee shot a stray dog. Camels left at dawn 5.10. We followed later intending to hunt for koodoo, but hearing nothing went a short path, and getting ahead of camels waited till 12 o'clock and found camp was made 5 miles back, another camel having died and several sick. Shot a few birds and Ghee wounded a gerenook. Saw pair of huge blackbirds bigger than turkeys. Skinned birds. Photos of Ghee cutting hair, and group of ourselves and ponies. Tried rifles at target. Running water here. Camp called Garara (Gurgarala).

5 Miles. 5.10 - 8.10.

Thursday, November 30th, 1899.

Up at 3.45 and camels away at 5.15, leaving 3 more dead during the night. About an hour on we all branched off to hunt. I went left and climbed the big mountain range, when we spied 2 koodoo below us far down. Stalking over the worst rocks possible we got them into a shaded kloof where I commanded the whole place. I sat down and began to think they had slipped further over when a scattering of rocks and out walked our friend at about 160 yards. I saw I hit the leading one badly so tried my left barrel on the second running without effect. I followed up and when near the place started a hyaena and had a long snap running shot, then saw my wounded beast, very sick and sorry, standing under a tree. I got my camera binocular and took 3 photos and then shot him. The rocks were truly awful, a species of hardy pointed flinty coral, as if it had been burnt; also looked as if it had been drilled and blasted, holes being deep and regular in bore. Sun was awfully hot and camp being formed on a by-water place we took 2 hours in finding it. Camels all look awfully bad having had no feed since leaving Zeila or possibly Berbera. At 3.30. I

started out again. Saw 2 hyaenas and ought to have bagged one except for my stupid shikari. Further on I spotted a lesser koodoo feeding up to us, so laying down the animal nearly walked on top of my last man; turning round quickly I rolled him over only a few yards away. Killed a large dark coloured eagle while skinning koodoo. Ghee missed a koodoo and Bill killed one. Camp called Garara. Rather funny at supper - hot koodoo marrow was tried as baked bananas and thrown away as bad, dishes having got mixed!!

8 Miles. 5.15 - 8. 30.